Gregory

Sounds interesting..  Show us some pictures...

This amounts to a tutorial on how to detail the bow and head of any number of ships..

I will be coming here often for reference.

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Even those Chinese POF kits that everyone raves about do a rather crappy job with their headrails and cheeks. 

You may be giving away too many secrets..

Just another possible option:   See if there are any vocational wood-working  shops/schools around.  They may let you use tools or help you..

The appropriate size would be actual block size divided by 120 or 130..

So an 8 inch block would be 1.6 - 1.7 - mm.

I'll try to find a recent discussion about very small blocks..  At this scale you are talking about little bits of plastic or whatever to

simulate blocks..

14 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

is there any reason to do one compared to the other? 

I think it's a matter of " what looks good to you..

Google " images of belaying pins "..

You will see a lot of nice coils..

Looking very nice.

On those tie off's, keep them simple and cover with coils..

I like this example provided by SpyGlass

Maybe not as much volume, but go for the look..

It is a type of walnut from Africa. Not usually as dark as American or European walnut.  

I would be reluctant to say it is a particular color, and you end up with something different.

It should be as easy to work as walnut or cherry..  The grain is usually finer than American or European walnut.

Are you planning on using shorter planks, rather than going from stem to stern, as a lot of kits suggest?

FWIW I have used these 1/32 basswood sheets from Model Expo to make my own strips which gives you more options for varying your plank width.

You can also stain it to get the color you want.

My experience has been that these sheets were very good quality.

.5  to .6 Is usually good.    Model Expo usually has a good selection.

Just stay away from what they sell as boxwood..  Unless they have changed, their " boxwood " is not...

Quote

Gregory are you an advocate of CA glue for most jobs? best regards Dave

I use CA a lot.  Mostly anywhere it is not very small pieces.

I used it for planking with veneer on my current Resolution  kit project

I used to avoid it because I had trouble managing overflow at edges.  Then I learned to keep a swab and acetone close by, and have learned it's pretty easy to keep mistakes cleaned up.

FWIW I have used a homemade accelerator that works pretty good.  1/2 Teaspoon of baking soda in 1/4 cup of purified or distilled water. Brush it on where needed.

More baking soda makes it faster..

It would be great to find some plan drawings of this boat..  Someone had posted some more pictures of the Chasseur, but I haven't found them yet..

Here is a link to a copyrighted interior view:  Chasseur

Very nice little boat!  One of my favorite subjects..

2 hours ago, PC52 said:

It's my lucky day.  Not only will Dusek send me a new transom, it will be bent.  Great customer service.

For the inquiring minds the transom is zinc alloy, it is possible to bend it after heating it in oven  (100-150 degrees celsius).

Something else to consider, depending on the thickness, you can see how far you can sand down the backside of these pieces and make them as thin as possible without losing the detail..

I have done this with Dusek/Mamoli kits before..

Another consideration with double planking,  is that you have the option to use a wide variety of veneers, that may not be easily/cheaply  obtainable in planking strips suitable for single layer planking..

Of course there are those who might ask "  Why would you want to use anything besides AYC ? "    😁

2 hours ago, Ron Burns said:

Using a single layer is basically the way a real ship was built.

Technically this is true..  However, many ships were built with the frame spacing so close, as to provide almost a solid surface for planking.

I don't see why there should anything inferior about creating a solid surface on which to lay your final planking and make the best model you can.

Doing  a a great job on the so called 2nd planking of a double planked kit, can take as much skill as doing a good single planked kit,

and end up with a better looking model.

If the goal is to do it the way real ship building was done, then most of your masts and yards should be built up also.  And then there is rope.

How about smelting your own cannon?  The list goes on and on..

21 minutes ago, Rach10199 said:

Where can I find the rest of this?

That looks like the instructions you find in the Model Shipways kits like this one.

Armed Virginia sloop

A lot of those Model Shipways kits have downloadable instructions.

The instructions by Chuck for Syren and Confederacy are like tutorials for model ship building..

If you can't easily remove the stem, keel and sternpost pieces ( ... considering creating the rabbet is easier done with those pieces out of the picture )

you might consider covering them with masking tape while you do your trimming.

After trimming with chisel or whatever, you can fine tune with course sanding paper..

Thank you..

Nice looking hearts!  😁

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

Gregory, when you say softwood, which are you referring to?   Just curious.

I have had success with bass, cherry and whatever toothpicks are made of.

I have also used boxwood and pear, but I'm not talking about thousands of pieces.  

When I said soft, I was thinking in terms of softer, as opposed to stuff like ebony or mahogany..

How do you file the teeth inside a hole that is 1mm or smaller?

The corners on the collets  I showed are plenty sharp for turning soft wood.

It looks like they were exposed to sunlight, near a window that created a sharp demarcation..

What is the kit, and where didi it come from..

Chances are you could get the supplier or manufacturer to replace them for you.

I don't do much treenailing, but a method I use for making small round parts might do the trick.

I have this set of brass collets for dremel that I use for rounding off small parts like the axels on my cannon.

Should be just as fast as any other method if you are making them one at a time..

If you have  McKay's book, the drawings for the 23 ft launch would be an excellent basis for plans.

You can find several plans for long boats at Wiki Commons

Here is a 21 foot boat that you could scale accordingly.

There are many plans at this location and they all would be pretty accurate..

It's really hard to see what is going on from your pictures.

Are you saying the planks are laying flat on the transom, but there is a gap between the plank/s and one or more bulkheads?

A wider shot, with maybe a pencil pointing at the problem would give a better idea..