Gregory

57 minutes ago, bruce d said:

I can get it right by measuring up the ropework I can see in the drawings. Maybe, but I suspect there has to be a better way.

At this point, I would think that might be the best way , considering the Mediator and Pickle are relatively simple rigs.

I would go with your measurements and add at least 10%..

Even if there are similar builds in the forum, I would doubt that people are measuring the rope as they go along and keeping a record of it.

Maybe someone will prove me wrong.

It is going to be hard to find a good replacement with Chuck out of the picture.  Another good reason to consider making your own.

You might be interested in this post by Chuck:

10 hours ago, Keithbrad80 said:

Also ounces, are used to describe things like mass, weight or volume.

I used it as a fraction of a pound, in terms of pound-force.  Perhaps I used it improperly.

What is the proper expression when pound/square inch <1 ?

It would be possible to measure the spring-back force on a twisted/bent model plank.

Do you think it would approach a pound or more?

CA two strips of bass wood together and measure the force it takes to slide them apart, or how much force it takes to pull them apart.

( In my experience, the wood splinters and comes apart before the glue joint separates )

There may be any number of reasons to choose not to use CA on a wood model ship.

The bond strength with wood, is not one of them.

As with any adhesive, there can be inferior formulations, and improper use.

The bond strength of CA  can be thousands of pounds per square inch when properly used.

I fail to see how the bond strength of CA  is a consideration when it comes to wood ship modeling, unless it is a question of the necessity to un-bond at some point.

Any guess about how many pounds per square inch is going on there? 

Or should we be talking about ounces?

11 minutes ago, Keithbrad80 said:

300 Kgf/cm^2

That appears to equal 4267  pound-force per square inch 

https://www.convertunits.com/from/kgf/cm2/to/psi

57 minutes ago, tomsimon said:

I watched videos on this scroll saw, wen 3921, is it a good one? seems to be stable..guidance appreciated

That looks great for entry level for the type of project you have described..

What kind of shear forces are we talking about in psi when it comes to model ship planking or even deck fixtures?

I am reading numbers in the hundreds for various types of glues including CA, on various types of materials.

27 minutes ago, tomsimon said:

I have a Dremel Stylo with a lot of bits. Do you think I can use that? 

It doesn't sound like like a good idea at all..

Chuck's suggestion of a scroll saw would be your best approach..

What sort of kit ( name ) are you talking about ?   Is there something special about it that rules out acquiring a new kit that doesn't require cutting out the major components?

2 hours ago, tomsimon said:

Is there a reasonably priced

Like Matt asked, " What is reasonable..

That Snapmaker comes in at $1250 for the base model and has a very low power laser, which would take multiple passes for the typical wood that comes in wood ship model kits.  A computer would also be needed to operate the machine.

You would also need to worry about a work area with a serious  extraction ventilation system

" Something  simple "  for what you want to do, doesn't sound like a realistic goal.

You might consider dropping the metal ring, which is just a kit convention, and using wedges, once you are ready to step the mast.

( you can make the wedges look a lot neater than this )

Or fashion a wooden fabrication that you will find on a lot of models..

( Chuck's Cheerful )

On the actual boat, this area would have a canvas cover, which isn't seen often on models..

You have inspired me to do some testing..

13 hours ago, Jaager said:

To stack the deck against CA a bit more, most of the stress that wood to wood bonds encounter on a ship model tend to be sheer.

Could you elaborate?  

The sheer strength seems to be more of a problem with non porous materials, which doesn't include most woods.

In what way, would the planking on a ship model, be subject to stress after the CA has cured?

Post #64  From Mark's post has a comprehensive list...

17 hours ago, rraisley said:

so I'd need drawings of them, if anyone has a source.

 Here are some nice drawings.

These instructions for Chuck's built up blocks might help with ideas..

More instructions..

4 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

All I need now is to find something that CA glue will not stick to. Any ideas?

I have used clear plastic wrap and zip-lock bags.

53 minutes ago, Don Case said:

Why is Boxwood so in demand for ships? Aren't there substitutes?

It became popular because of the very fine, almost invisible grain and it's carving properties.

It holds a very fine edge.

Personally, I like the look of wood grain on large areas like the hull, as I prefer not to paint.  Purists however, will decry open grain wood as being way out of scale for model ships.

Too me, boxwood looks like something besides wood, like marble or ceramic, so in that regard, I like it for decorations and

things like figureheads.

The price has probably at least quadrupled in the last few years, and it does not show up in models here as much as it used to.

Chuck's Cheerful and many of the early kits he sold were based on Boxwood..  So, you will find several Cheerful logs that utilize boxwood.

I have really grown fond of cherry as of late, but it's darker color is not appealing to a lot of folks.

There is a nice kit at Syren Ship Models, but at 24mm it may still be a bit too big.

However, if you take a look at the downloadable instructions, they may help with making your own.

Cornwall Model Boats has a nice selection, but shipping may be a little slow these days..

Lay some masking tape along the top of gunwales and trace the edge with a pencil.

Here is one method that looks pretty good:

Your rope looks a little heavy.  You might consider scaling it down a bit.  There are those who will refer you to tables and establishments, but I like to go with what looks good.

Just a note, it may take several swipes with the acetone.  The cured CA is essentially plastic, and the acetone dissolves it.

You might hold out for the long awaited Amati 1:64 Victory

This is an image from a Caldercraft build, and the look you might be going for.

9 minutes ago, Roberts Orca said:

Can anyone give me perspective on this?

Not an expert,  but I have never seen two tackle on the rear like that.  It is the in-haul to haul the  gun inboard.

I wouldn't be surprised if Corel got it wrong.  it wouldn't be the first time.

19 minutes ago, stevenmh said:

Any ideas would be most welcome.

If they are twisting, it is because the shroud or lanyard is trying to find a rest position that it was forced out of when it was laid up..

You have to make sure both are hanging untwisted naturally before seizing them..

Have you tried wiping with acetone? 

You might need to put some cloth on a thin blade of some sort, saturate it with acetone and  wipe between the planks.