Gregory

The only thing you could do besides doing it over, would be to add some shim material to the bulkheads..

Agreed that the poster may find themselves subject to an onslaught of spam..

However, Googling Polybak, produces a list of suppliers..

Chucks recommendation of finding a cabinet/furniture maker as a source of scrap, seems to be a good option..

My comment was mainly because the OP specified USA..

I'm not sure about smaller orders, but I've saved a lot of money at Cornwall on European  kits, due the substantial difference in price of the kit.  Often 30% or more in the US..

I see Kieth trumped me..😀

In the USA< I would check ModelExpo

Cornwall Model Boats in the UK has a greater selection, and you might find the shipping rates to be surprisingly reasonable.

Why do they show two different size on the plans?

Here is a shot of the actual ship:

You could probably get a good idea for dimensions by looking at the port and the height of the bulwarks..

I doubt there are any pictures available.  This was a pretty unique situation for a ship but making sense considering the Bounty's mission.

I assume it was similar to copper sheathing but without the nails.  Some kind of tiles that were hammered out thin and overlapped at the seams..

Lead was cast in thin sheets and used for water proofing in a lot of situations back then.

I doubt that the appearance would be smooth at full scale, but at modeling scales, a lead colored paint would be a good representation.

On 12/28/2020 at 2:56 PM, Siegfried said:

McKay hasn't mentioned something like this in his book.

If we are talking about McKay's Anatomy of The Ship book, actually on page 9 under the heading of Refit, it says:

Quote

" ...The deck was covered with lead , and at the foremost corners of the cabin were fixed pipes tocarry off the water that had drained from the plants into tubs placed below to save it for future use. "

Takes me a while to use up a can also.

I usually thin the  " Wipe on Poly " even further, at least for the first coat or two..

I seem to remember that there was someone who posted here with their excellent very tiny models, but didn't really share any technique that I recall.

Does anyone remember who that might have been?

2 hours ago, The_Full_Broadside said:

.....where to get them from?

I don't believe you will find anything for sale at that scale.

There are miniature model makers working at those smaller scales, and there are some books out there about making such things.

They pretty much use tiny bits of whatever, and fine wire..

I will be trying to find some books for you, but meanwhile someone else may jump in with suggestions.

I know this has been discussed before, but I'm at a loss as to how to search for those topics.

There are a couple of books by  Lloyd McCaffery, but they can be kind of pricey..

Here is a nice story without having to click through the slide show.

USS Nevada

This is the transom design I had been working on, but the longer I worked on it the more I felt like it wasn't in keeping with the boat as a whole.

I decided I wanted something a little more simple.

So I settled on this.

I hung the rudder.

Made a bowsprit so that I could set the gammoning before installing the head rails..

Masting and rigging shouldn't be too far in the future..  I'm mostly working on the guns, and fiddling with some other details.  Should have an update on them soon.

Thanks for looking in..

Been a while since my last update, but I have made a little progress.

One of my side projects has been to work on a display base and pedestals.  This picture is one of several veneered pieces I bought  on eBay a while back.

I used one of these for my Mary, which I think looks OK.

However, I wanted to make something a little more unique for Resolution, as well as practice my veneering skills ( or lack thereof.. )

I decided to try my hand at a bit of inlay work.

I glued strips of light and dark wood on top of veneer sheets.

Here is one of my little tool tips..  I use a plastic knife as a glue spreader.. Doesn't show that well in the picture, but it does a good job of making a thin layer of glue in little rows, that quickly even out..

Here is my wood sandwich, from which I cut thin strips with my table saw.

I used a piece of burl veneer from my stash, and this is what I ended up with.

I will update shortly with a little progress on the boat itself.

An Amazon search brings up many:

USS Constitution

Other members can suggest their favorites.

I appreciate that, but my modeling goal is more of an art piece rather than an accurate looking miniature ship..

Of course, art is in the eye of the beholder..

I can't see that  grain from 10 feet away, and my wife never mentioned how out of scale it looks..😉

Rather than trying to advance my questionable modeling techniques, I was just responding to Carlos, who revived a four year old discussion..

I used mahogany veneer on my Mary..

I'm using walnut on my Resolution.

This walnut is paper-backed.  Still very thin, but the paper keeps splitting to " 0 " ..

Great for spilling..

First, click on one of the era headings:

Then, click on " Start New Topic

Make sure you choose the correct era for the model you are building..

Or a napping Chuck with a nice pillow under his head...

Or maybe this..  😁

9 hours ago, KHauptfuehrer said:

preventing the deadeye from rotating horizontally as the shroud is tightened,

You do not want them to be tight enough for that to happen.

In fact, you would want your lanyards to be rigged before you seize up the shrouds, and use the lanyards for final tensioning.

There is a lot of backward and forward adjustment to be done, while not letting your deadeye spacing get out of whack..

In the end, the shrouds  would still have a very, very small amount of play in them..

7 minutes ago, Richard Feliciano said:

When you say "this area",

 " This area " is part of the " Build Logs " area of the home page.

You are posting in the " Scratch Build " part..

It is reserved for builds that are not built from a kit.

38 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

...wondered if it caused a problem trying to get through the hole that had the clip in it when rigging the deadeyes?  

The clip is to set the spacing between the deadeyes while you adjust the length of the shrouds.  

Once that is done, you remove the clip and rig the lanyards between the deadeys..

50 minutes ago, histprof1066 said:

Where would I find that type of information for sculptures to input into a 3D printer? 

It is doubtful that the 3D files for printing are already available.

You would be looking at a whole nother' project in 3D modeling to make that happen.

As Backer alluded to, getting someone else to do this would probably cost a lot more than another kit.

For what it's worth, and maybe too late, I related a tip a while back about taking care of those nibs on the ends of ratlines.

If the rope is polyester, use an adjustable soldering iron, and find the lowest setting to melt the nibs down to nothing..

I use one like this:

Soldering Iron Kit

It has a needle-like point that is good for this..

^ With that in mind, it makes one wonder if the breaching line was more of a safety line, to keep the gun from rolling out of control on a rolling deck?

The tried and true method is to have some kind of spacer while you set the shrouds..

Here is a good example:

Cutter Alert by VTHokiEE