Gregory

Have you tried jgarcia@modelexpo-online.com ? I always get prompt replies from him..

How did you feel about the cost at the time? How does it compare to BlueJacket's pricing today?

Malco is an excellent source for blades, although they do require a minimum $100 order..

That 1mm wire represents part of the carriage structure.. It doesn't look like the kit provides the various eyebolts and hooks that would be part of the gun tackle.. You would have to procure those from other sources.. Here are some carriages from DocBlake's Blandford.

There are tables somewhere that would indicate diameter/circumference or whatever. but in modeling I go with what looks good. Here is an example from Victory. Out of proportion rope and tackle would be distracting.. I think the breeching rope on the cannon in my signature looks too small. I would change it, but the model is no longer in my custody..

The 1/4 poplar boards you can get at Home Depot are pretty decent.. Good to hear you got a saw.. One of the small one's? Byrnes or other?

I have been happy with the cherry from ModelExpo .. They have some 1/4 square.. Of course, if you get a saw, cutting from sheets will be a better value..

FWIW, I have found this adapter to work with the 1/2" arbor on Malco blades and the Proxxon FET Saw Blade Adapter Malco has $100 min order requirement, but their 3 " .02 blade for $15.43 is a lot better blade than the Proxxon branded blades..

Looks good to me.. You do have an empty quote box at the bottom of all your posts. It looks like space reserved for a signature, with no signature information..

Try both and see what happens.. It would be hard to know without having the wood in hand.

If you want to go the mini route, this is the same as the Proxxon at about half the price.. ABEST Improvement High Speed Mini Miter/Cut-Off Saw Mini Table Saw Mini Bench Saw with 2 Blades

What dimensions do you need. and what sources have you looked at? Just curious..

Is there a chance the paint will bleed into the wood and not just show up on the edge?

I think they look good in your pic.. What I feel is important on a model, it that it doesn't look too close to upper or lower port sills..

PS Here is a post I made with an image of my method.. Just running the pencil over the exposed edge corner is all that is needed. The actual face of the edge will never be seen.

It is also easy to do after the plank is glued in place. Doesn't have to be soft lead either, which is more prone to smudging.

Have you looked at these? Style Line (STY0701) 6 Piece Soft Sanders Set

The Mamoli kit would be a great option for some bashing.. I would want it to be the new Dusek version.. A bank or lawyers office in Mobile might be willing to pay a nice chunk of change for a well finished model.. At the least you might get a nice tax deduction for donating to a local library.. I noticed Bluejacket wanted $10,800 for a completed model..

Don't be so apologetic. At that price point I would agree about the cannon and deadeyes. I would expect premium parts all around.

Another fiddly bit completed.. My little stove stack.. I hope Chuck doesn't mind I used the design from Cheerful.. I haven't decided whether to paint it black or not...

Thanks for looking in. Your AVS is a favorite of mine.. When it comes to ornamentation, the laser certainly doesn't compare to the hand carving and CNC work we see from some of of our members. However, I think it is a nice alternative to most of the kit ornamentation, and let's one add little touches that make a difference.

Not a lot of obvious progress, I'm sure many here know that designing and fabricating your own parts can eat up the clock.. I used to think to myself, when I bought those cool mini kits from Chuck, " If I only had my own laser ", without realizing what it takes to turn an idea into a part you can be happy with. For a little perspective, here is part of the window frame in my quarter badge.. Here is a little bit of my adventures in laser land.. In making the window frames for my transom, this is an example of some of the considerations one has to go through. I'm sure there are a lot of CAD gurus out there who can draw things precisely, send them to the laser and end up with perfect parts. However, I'm stuck with 2D drawing apps that I am still learning how to use. Then, you have to factor in things like laser power, speed, focus and the kind of wood you are using Anyway, the picture above shows I'm getting pretty close . The transom facade is 1/16 cherry, and my intention was to create a 1/32 recess on which the 1/32 frame would rest. I miscalculated in cutting out the opening, and you can also see the frame is not symmetrical. Rather than re cut the transom, I made an insert for the frame to rest on.. Ooops. I forgot to correct the asymmetry with the sides of my frame.. Back to my computer and checking where I went wrong.. Ka ching! Oh no! My camera tells me I need to square up the inside of the lower corners of those frames.. Never mind that they will never be visible from a foot away..

Thanks for looking in.. Your critique is always welcome.. Since this boat has a a cutter rig, I'm relying on my Cheerful plans to help with the details. They are a valuable resource because I know those plans were well researched.

This boat is on my to-do list.. I have the plans.. You have raised the bar considerably.. A beautiful model! I have bookmarked this log and will be referring to it frequently..

I also talked about using the Chapelle drawings to fabricate a quarter badge vs the kit version. Here's my effort so far. Just temporarily stuck in place for the picture.. Will add some glazing and do a little more refining.