Gregory

I found this topic while researching the guns for my Resolution build.. Thanks a lot for the info. I think I have what I need now. For what it's worth, I found another E-copy of John Robertson's treatise, and it is much better quality than the Google book.. Here..

I realized ( later ), that conforming the beakhead to the Chapelle and NMM drawings, also meant changing the part of the stem behind the beak.. ( Someone let me know what the correct terminology is ) I cut out the rest of the keel and stern post and glued it to the backbone.. The difference in color, from front to rear, is mostly due to lighting. The Rudder is a work in progress, and not finely tuned yet. Considering the way I work, it may be version one, of several versions to come. While not scale, but still relatively fine, I like the way a coat of poly has brought out the grain in the yellowheart that I chose for the stem and keel. I have yet to decide how I may use this wood in other parts of the model. Thinking ahead about the details of the model; things to be working on while glue is drying; I am working on the cannon. The included barrels, are really quite nice, and seem to be a reasonable size for six or eight pounders. I will be looking for any input and opinions in this regard.. They measure in at 35 mm, which at the kit scale of 1:50 translates to 5.75 feet . My research has shown the barrel length for various " pounders" can vary somewhat. The kit supplied carriages might have seemed acceptable 20 or more years ago, but not now in the age of laser cutting, and the standards set by the models we see here at MSW. Luckily, as I mentioned earlier, I just happen to have a laser cutter. I'm working on a built up carriage, based on various drawings and several build logs here at MSW.. This is a little rough, and not my final choice of wood.. What you see is walnut, and I am thinking of going with cherry. Why a dark wood with the carriages? I have a vision of an un-painted model with contrasting (but not too severe) woods. The deck will be lighter, with darker details including the gun carriages. I noted in a build log by BlueEnsign regarding the Cutter Alert kit, that the carriage trucks had square hubs and axles. He also noted how fragile the axles could be when trying to round them off; particularly at the scales we are working at. My answer to this problem is a sanding tool I devised for rounding off small square stock. It is simply some fine ( 320 ) sanding paper rolled into a small tube, affixed to some small round stock and used with my low RPM Dremel tool. The inside of the tube is the working side. Here is the tentative result; keeping in mind I plan to smooth some of those rough surfaces you see.. It could be a matter of perspective, but it may appear the carriage is under sized compared to the barrel. However I have based my parts on a number of resources such as Chuck's long gun on the Cheerful, and the 6 pounder from the Hahn plans of rattlesnake. I have also been looking at the excellent guns that DocBlake put together for his Blandford cross section. ...Which don't appear a lot different, in my opinion, to the proportions of the gun I have put together. That's it for now.. Should be fitting the bulkheads and beginning the planking soon..

If that were a fair example of a completed model here at MSW, the expert ship modelers here would probably be generous with their praise and encouragement.. There are two San Martin kits in the build index, with one showing a lot of progress and last updated in July of this year. The other had very little progress, and was last updated almost six years ago.

To get a feel for how challenging this hobby can be, take a look at the index of wood ship build logs .. Note how many of them read " Finished ".. Also look at the ship kit build log forum.. Note that if you click over to the middle of the topics, after about 45 pages or so, the logs have not been updated for over two years..

What is the length of your barrels, if I may ask?

Your Le Renard in the gallery looks superb.. I don't think Rick can go wrong by adapting your windlass arrangement.

I live in the US, and have paid considerably less for kits from CMB than the same kit purchased from US dealers. even after shipping was factored in..

Here is a link for you: Ship Model Framing and Planking

FWIW, I heard that Bluejacket makes the frames by creating a full hull with CNC, then slices it up to make two kits.. Maybe Mr. Bluejacket will see this and clarify if I'm wrong.. I can't visualize at what point the errors you are seeing would creep in. It certainly speaks of a lack of quality control..

A few subtle changes. I cut some pieces from my new yellowheart . Not glued, and not cleaned up, so we can compare the difference afterword. The discoloration is from the smoke created when cutting.. That should change with the cleaning.. I realized I shaped the forward-most stem to sit too high as seen in the previous post, so I scaled that back..I should have the rest of the keel finished soon

I'm working on the prototype for the stem pieces. I decided to use the stem profile from the Chapelle/NMM drawings, as I don't plan on using the figurehead provided in the kit, and the NMM lines appear to reflect a common shape of the period. The char has not been cleaned up, and I may not bother, as I will be using some other wood, yet to be determined. The joint on the two front pieces does not look tight because it isn't glued. The back piece is just one piece at this time. I decided to just engrave the scarfs instead of cutting three desperate pieces. Depending on how the grain looks on the wood I settle on, I may decide to make separate pieces.

This should narrow it down a bit: Pinnace plans If you don't type in a precise match, you can get a lot of extra clutter or nothing at all..

In your image of the contemporary model, do I see another step at the stern post, or is that an illusion?

Great post! If we could all build like Chuck, Chuck wouldn't be so special!😄

Basically , with double planking. the first layer lets you make mistakes that you can sort out and create a smooth basis for the finishing layer. Up until recently. most of the kits aimed at beginners had too few bulkheads to get a good basis for a successful single planking. Kit makers had to keep costs down, which means less material. For the most part, double layer planking became a convention based on the majority of kits kits that were available. People would buy the kits and try to follow the instructions, that called for double planking. Single planking has only become a reasonable option with the growth of sites like this, where people can actually learn how to do it. At this stage in my model building, I prefer double planking because I can use a variety of veneers that wouldn't be available as strip wood for a single planking effort.... Bruce, From your link, I really like these comments by Kurt. There is a lot of good information in that topic..

Corel's plans call for the stem, keel and stern post to be covered with veneer at some point. I'm fortunate to have acquired a laser cutter not too long ago, so my intention is to create a built up stem and keel parts with some wood stock yet to be determined. First, I cut out part of the plans to define my cutting area. I had to cut the frame into two pieces, because my laser bed is not big enough for the full size frame. I put it back together, added a rabbet strip and started defining the bearding line. You can see the pieces I cut off with the laser; they will help me shape the new parts. Here are the tentative lines for the stem parts.

Seeing your build inspired me to get this off the shelf and get busy. I just looked at your flag on speedy. It looks really good. Was that out of the box? The red is all bled out on mine and I can't think of any easy if any way at all to fix that. Here is a readable version of the text from one of the Chapelle drawings.

Something to keep in mind. The cannon rigging on the gun deck will not be visible on the completed model for all practical purposes.. You might consider not bothering with the eye bolts and breeching ropes as shown on the plans. Just go for a nice look on the cannon barrels, as seen from the gun ports..

This will be my build of the Corel Resolution kit. I was attracted to this kit based on a build I saw at Model Ship Builder This is a Japanese site with many very nice models represented. I favor the natural wood/antique look with my models, so the style of this build serves as inspiration for what I hope to accomplish. I have a rather long winded prologue that follows, so feel free to skip to the actual build description that should show up down there somewhere… There has been some discussion here at MSW about the basis for this kit design. It is pretty much agreed there was no actual ship of this configuration named HMS Resolution. Resolution Solved There are some plans from the National Maritime Museum of a sloop named Ferrett ( 1711 ), a 10-gun single-masted, cutter-rigged Sloop.. We also found some plans drawn by Howard Chapelle, that are clearly based on the NMM plans, embellished somewhat, but matching the basic lines perfectly as far as I can tell. Corel appears to have used those lines, and embellished the ship even further, which I will discuss more as I go along, because I will not be incorporating some of those embellishments in my build. There is more. Chapelle drew another set of lines and wrote: “ Ferrett and Sharke “ ,with more detailed information pictured below. I assume Chapelle had access to some resources I haven’t been able to identify, or he speculated based on convention at the time. There are some plans of “ Shark ( 1732 ) “ from the NMM which say: “ A ketch-rigged 8-gun Sloop. “The lines are very similar to Ferrett, but not a 1 to 1 match. A major, but not the only difference, being two masts, which fits the “ketch “ designation. Corel calls the ship a ‘ cutter ‘ . I wondered what makes a sloop a “ sloop “, and found it was very ambiguous.. I settled on this from Wikipedia. In part: “ A sloop is a sailing boat with a single mast typically meaning one headsail in front of the mast, and one mainsail aft of (behind) the mast.” We also find: “ If the vessel has two or more headsails, the term cutter may be used, especially if the mast is stepped further towards the back of the boat.” On the other hand there are a lot of ships called sloops, that have two or three masts. I’m not uncomfortable with the designation of a cutter because the sail plan seems very similar to other cutters, as well as the notation on the NMM collection article which says :“ Cutter rigged sloop. “ The NMM plans say the length of the gun deck from rabbet to rabbet is 65 feet, while I calculate the scaled length of the Corel model at about 70.. I imagine the other dimensions will not match any better, but not an issue as far as I’m concerned. Chapelle provides some deck details in one of his drawings that differ significantly from what Corel calls for. Since there are no deck details on the NMM drawings of Ferrett, I would lean toward the Chapelle interpretation, but I may mix and match as I go along, and point it out when I deviate from the Corel plans. The two large grates do not look typical to me, and I will have to see what I will do with that deck space. I can’t resist the urge to also note, that in my research, I found a Sterling kit of Ferret on eBay.. It looks like it was probably based on the Chapelle drawings, but the deck plan seems a bit absurd with some sort of ship’s boat athwartship with no capstain or windlass. I have also found two Ferret kits from the Ideal Model Co.. One plastic, and the other wood. They both appear to be based on the Chapelle drawings. Continuing on, here is a brief rundown of the Corel kit contents. If anyone has any questions, I will do my best to provide an answer. The box art.. The framework is well done, but I have some modifications in mind, which I will document later. There is a generous fittings package. Unfortunately, the provided sailcloth is too heavy, and the flag set is un-usable.. I make my own rope, so the provided stuff is of no use to me. There are eight sheets of well drawn plans. The strip wood and dowels appear to be of good quality, but I will have to see what is usable as the build progresses. (To be continued.)

Just my $.02 .. I have both of these kits, and while I think they both make nice decorator pieces, they have serious technical issues.. I won't elaborate unless you would like for me to..

Which kit do you have? Did it provide rope that will look like the picture above if you lay it next to the cannon provided in the kit. You can get bogged down in precise measurements based on practice, but in the end does it look good? You only stand to suffer disappointment if a crew member from the Connie inspects your build with a micrometer and informs you that the breeching ropes are all wrong..

I think you are on the right track.. I really like the method shown here by Dubz..: Rigging by Dubz While he is showing attaching a line to a block that is already stropped, I think the same method could well be used for stropping the block..

Use whatever size makes them look like this: I'm sort of joking with you, but I'm sure someone else may give you a better answer, based on the scale. Which kit/scale are you building?

You might check with Daniel Dusek who is a member here, and the owner of Dusek ship models which also owns the Mamoli line now..

Sketchup is free for personal use.. You can Google " free CAD " and see what you can find...