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Everything posted by shipman
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I've been talking to the void for years about creating detail which would simply be invisible on small scale models. The plastic fraternity are the usual victims of this. A lot of modellers 'know' something is there, so they find ways to satisfy their need to see these details on their kits. If you look at a decent photo of a ship such as the Hood, or similar, even quite a big photo. You won't see deck rails (sometimes the stanchions are visible). In fact the 'rails' aren't rails at all, but are wire cables or chains. On a 1200, 700, 600, 500 scale model these things just wouldn't be seen. Yet our intrepid modellers spend a fortune on photo etch railings etc and festoon their pride and joy with them. The aircraft modellers go to great lengths scribing panel lines and rivet detail, again at most of the common scales they wouldn't be visible if you looked at a real aeroplane from five or six feet. All of this is a strange phenomena to me.
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A very useful tool is a pair of self locking lock-wire pliers for twisting up eye-bolts very quickly. With a bit of patience, they are brilliant for twisting up long lengths of copper wire to make 'rope', which can be used for items like foot-ropes or boat falls which can hold a curve or stay straight, when thread won't.
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15' Dinghy by Bedford - FINISHED - 1:1 scale
shipman replied to Bedford's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Just found this excellent thread......what a FABULOUS boat! Respect. Thanks for posting. -
I made some shrouds for 1/450 Victory.
shipman replied to modeller_masa's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Nice to see a favourable reference to Bob Wilson considering he's banned from this site. -
Patrick, I'm enjoying your build. The toned down colour scheme is a welcome, perhaps more realistic change to what we usually get wit most 'Bounty's'. Your furled sails look fine to me; I'm pretty certain they are correct for the period. Looking forward to the completion of your little adventure.
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The lower hull paint was a common industrial anti corrosion coating used on all sorts of architectural steel and ironwork. We in the UK called it 'Red Lead'. As the name implies, it was lead based; modern health and safety deems this to be toxic, so it isn't used these days. No doubt the lead content didn't encourage marine growth.
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The 'Boot Topping' looks fine to me. The 'Read Lead' shade is also very convincing, though in real life it would look a bit redder when first applied but would oxidise to a shade like yours.
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Thanks for the photo's, Dafi. It's so long since I saw them I was almost convinced I'd imagined them. Your Victory project is becoming a new wonder of the world.
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Victory was re-purposed several times after 'retirement'; mainly as an accommodation ship, also as a prison, a hospital and a prison. Sometime she was rammed by an Ironclad which broke it's tow on it's way to the breakers. Photo's do exist of this incident, but can I find them on the 'net'?
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Eberhard, thanks for sorting that out; yes that's certainly a handsome model. As time goes by I'm coming to recognise what a fount of arcane knowledge you are. Always reliably accurate on whatever subject you choose. Thanks again.
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Thank you for your info (Ebhard?). Your attachment has been blocked by Firefox as a threat!!!!! There I was, thinking you didn't care LOL.
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The shortest answer to your question is, no.
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Dr PR, thank you for your explanation. Once you understand this stuff, it's surprising how simple and logical it becomes. Can't remember seeing a snow rigged model.
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Forgive me if this topic has been addressed before. Several times I've come across references to a Snow Rigged ship, usually a 2 masted merchant vessel. The significant feature being another, lighter mast directly behind the rear mast. The boom and gaff for the 'lateen' type sail is attached to the lighter mast. What is the why and wherefore with this arrangement please?
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Just remembered, bamboo chopsticks are available, some with a square section. They could be converted to spars with a little thought, so the central octagonal section and the tapered outer section can be in one piece. If you can find the correct type, bamboo is a remarkable material.
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Come so far and learned so much! The learning will be the value you carry over to your next build. It's a bit late to address the issues with the moulded hull 'planks'; a feature which spoils an otherwise excellent rendition of the ships hull. The simplest way to replace the plastic spars would be to sand bamboo skewers on a flat board, along their length. The octagonal sections could be hand planed or scraped using square section hardwood. end drilled to take the tapered outer sections and glued. Accept a small failure rate:- the materials would be cheap but, it's surprising how quick it is. Again, too late now. Reward yourself with acknowledging what you've achieved with what is a minor masterclass of a model.
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Bruma, my confession is this.....I have at least three examples of this kit, plus all the accessories available. I've even made a dedicated build stand. BUT I haven't started it yet!!! I've spent an inordinate amount of time studying the model, photo's of the ship and all the build logs such as yours to see how people resolve what I see as kit issues and historical anachronisms. I can't see a way to depict bulwark details accurately...mainly the freeing ports and the white panels that run along both sides. These details will need addressing right at the beginning of the work. I'm still not happy and until I am, I'm not ready to proceed. I have all the important books and I feel my research has been as thorough as it's possible. I'd like to do justice to the kit and make it as accurate as I can. The ship as she is isn't what it could be; I've found hints that still give me doubts. In the meantime, I've been looking at my shelf of shame. Prominently is the beginnings of my interpretation of the Airfix Bounty which I put a lot of time into some years ago. (The 1:87 scale is very inviting and the hull mouldings compare well to the AOTS book drawings). Again, there's not a lot of real evidence of her actual appearance. So on this one I decided to use a measure of conjecture and artistic licence. For instance, considering the mission she had....to transport live breadfruit seedlings. I decided the converted Captains cabin wouldn't have let enough light in. So I was intending to replace the rear deck grating with a glazed affair much like the skylight on the poop of the Victory. That may very well be wrong but to me at least it's plausible. So that looks like being revived into my winter project (and build log). Ultimately, I may adopt this attitude for the CS kit. Take care and stay well.
- 399 replies
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- cutty sark
- revell
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(and 2 more)
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American Heavy Frigates 1794-1826 - ISBN 978-1-84176-630-0 - $5.00 American Light and Medium Frigates 1794-1836. ISBN 978-1-84603-266-0. - $5.00 Ships of the American Revolution and Their Models by Harold Hahn - ISBN 0-87021-653-8 - $12.00 2012 Shipwright Annual. ISBN 9781844861491. - $5.00 Please put these to one side for me Len. GB£ ? I'm UK based so regular postage should do. You could pm me. Cheers matey.
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Honestly, from my experience, your photo's don't really show an issue worth worrying about. The grape vine indicates Trumpeter have detail issues somewhere on every kit they produce. From what I understand, THE big problem is the undersize rear funnel, though there are replacements available. A lot depends on what you want to achieve with your Hood. A handsome model can be built with what came in the box. Many of the 'inaccuracies' detailed on the Hood site are there but they are pretty minor. Most people wouldn't even notice.
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