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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. Looks good! Even with this small craft, don't forget to layout strake marks on the frames to get the proper taper on the planking above the garboard. Allan
  2. I agree with your own comment that it is a poor excuse. 😀 While your model is pretty, looking at your photos there is very little in the details that resembles a real ship which is typical of DeAgostini kits. In the end if you like it that is what is most important.
  3. JD Does the kit provide the metal rod material to do this? There are usually three pr four pieces to this on the fore and main mast shroud deadeyes, the eye around the deadeye and into the slot on the channel then one or two chain links going to the hull and a lower plate. There were no lower plates on 17th century vessels and there are not always plates on the mizen mast shroud deadeyes. You can see a model of Bounty on the RMG site to see what is appropriate as I would not trust your kit instructions without doing some research first. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68763 Have you looked at the various build logs including other than Bounty? Do a search on deadeye chains here at MSW, there are pictures and discussions on various methods members of used. Allan
  4. Grandpa, See picture below. Soleil Royal would not have had belaying pins. I am sure this is not your mistake, but rather the kit maker. DeAgostini must not have done very much research to produce such a big mistake. Allan
  5. Fabulous as always! I have never seen the lanyards to help open the shutters by the lights, but it makes a lot of sense. Is this something you have seen before? Thanks Allan
  6. I went to the address above and it comes up to their home page. They claim they do not offer printed plans of "old" kits. Maybe better to email them under "contact" at the bottom of the home page where they have a mention of further contact for old plans. If it is a new kit tell them your kit came without any plans on paper or CD or go to where you bought it and get a replacement kit that has the plans in the box, be it CD or paper. Just curious, is your father a beginner or very experienced builder? Allan
  7. Hi Jonathan, Regarding the pins, I assumed this was a kit thing as Mantua is not well regarded for doing a lot of research before designing their kits. I look forward to your build log on Victory. Having a copy of Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships will be a great help as well as the Caldercraft Victory build log here on MSW by Robert29. Allan
  8. Nirvana, Depending on the temperature and size that you want, the clay baking ovens may be a good thing for you. The one I have from Amaco goes to 300 degrees F and has a timer for up to 30 minutes. Allan
  9. Thanks for this information Eberhard, it makes for a very good day for me learning something new first thing in the morning! 😀 Is the below from the Constitution what your are referring to color wise? Allan
  10. As many folks have advised above this really is a personal choice for you to make, but it should take into consideration cost, time, and space. Regarding space, UV protection needs to be considered in some form so may affect where the model will be displayed. Allan
  11. Your attempt is superior to the vast majority seen on build logs here at MSW. You show dimples instead of pimples which is realistic, albeit a bit larger on the inside ones than the peripheral rows. Those indentations on the edges look much closer to scale of using 1/4" nails with 1/2" flat heads. And, unlike the vast majority of copper sheathing on models we see here, your plates overlap as they should be. Kudos to you for this. There is a tutorial by Gene Bodnar at NRG that is not bad, but uses copper tape, not brass. I don't know if it really is copper or painted as was yours. https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/CopperSheathingaHull.pdf On the actual ships the coppering was no doubt green in short order and there are some nicely sheathed models with the plates painted an oxidized copper green as an alternative route you might want to consider. Allan
  12. Jason Anyone building a kit model should spend an hour or two studying your build log. You are showing what can be done to modify the plethora of unattractive items found in the majority of kit models into an expertly done piece of craftsmanship. Kudos Allan
  13. Your workmanship is fantastic! One thing that looks rather odd is that you show belaying pins even though they were not introduced until about 1745, more than fifty years after she burned in Cherbourg. Allan
  14. Hi Sonny, Have you checked out the tutorial on copper sheathing? https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/CopperSheathingaHull.pdf The plates would have had nail dents about 0.005" diameter at your scale, thus barely visible, rather than huge raised bumps. Keep in mind the plates should be overlapping about 1.5" (full scale) on both the short and long edges. Allan
  15. Your workmanship looks really nice Jonathan. I am not very familiar with Mantua kits. Am I correct in assuming the kit called for belaying pins? The reason I asked is that they would not have been found the San Felipe or any other ship until about 1745 and then only on pin racks lashed to the shrouds for a number of years. There is an interesting article on this model and the ship, which may never have even existed. https://www.modelships.de/San_Felipe_1690_authenticity/San_Felipe_1690_authenticity.htm Allan
  16. Jim, Your comments on the copper sheathing were music to my ears!!! For the life of me I cannot understand why there is not one kit maker that supplies accurate looking sheathing material, especially the representation of the nails, which would not even be visible on the smaller scales such as 1:72 or 1:98 You were kind to use the word overstated. I was thinking something a bit more intense. Allan
  17. Welcome to the fray John! You mentioned you were a kid in the 70's so it is super nice to see a "youngster" join the group. We love the scenery in your part of the country. Made quite a few visits there when our youngest was living out there with his brood and attached to the Stryker brigade at JBLM. Allan
  18. Thanks for posting this tutorial. These are far more realistic than anything seen from any kit on the build logs here a MSW. He does mention the missing nails inside the edges, but states that the plates sit side by side which was never the practice as they overlapped. Kit makers would be better served to supply the tape and pounce wheel if the wheel pins are spaced properly and the correct diameter for the scale of the kit rather than the dross most currently supply. One other note, the tutorial mentions rivets. Rivets were not used, but rather 1/4" nails with 1/2" flat heads. Allan
  19. Pay attention to the axles. In the photos on the website they are out of round. You may want to consider replacing those parts if yours come in with the odd shape. To make your own is easy and rounding the axles is quick. I have a few home made cutters sized for various diameters. Pictures worth a 1000 words, etc, etc. below Allan
  20. Hi Barb, Does your kit come with copper sheathing material or are you thinking of adding on your own? From photos of the Model Shipways' Pride of Baltimore models they appear to have a green (oxidized copper) painted bottom which is more realistic looking than the vast majority of the copper sheathed models seen here at MSW and elsewhere. Allan
  21. For $900 I would expect a little reality from the kit producer. The photos show belaying pins. Belaying pins were not used on French (or English) warships in the 17th century, and if they had been they would not be the size of bowling pins. The gratings look nothing like gratings on a ship of any era. The sided and moulded dimensions of the frames on the ship's boats are huge compared to what they would have been. There are more items, but in the end you are the one to decide if these kinds of things are important, or maybe consider doing a kit bashing to correct them. Allan
  22. Thanks for information Gary, I did not see these on their website but found it now. Good to know for the future although 😀
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