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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. Hi Lyle, Thanks for the response. Since posting I too found the date of 1771 in Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War. Regarding research, good for you taking the time to do so!!!!! Based on the build logs here at MSW I would research every piece in an AL kit before using it as they, like many others, appear to not have done more than a modicum of research on their own for any of their kits. Allan
  2. I was just going to hit the like button but felt a little extra comment was in order. For a first POF, you continue to amaze us. That said, Druxey mentioned your secret regarding the crack in the clamp being safe with us. I thought I saw a post on virtual media about this that has gone viral...... 🤐 just kidding........ Allan
  3. Your channels show holes for the deadeye strops to pass through. I know this was the style used early on, but do you or does anyone know when this was changed to having notches that were then covered with a molding strip once the deadeyes were secured. I think the change was around 1770, about 15 years before Bounty was launched so she would have had the slots and cover molding piece, but I may be off on the year. Sketch of what I mean is below. The slot design was made for ease of putting on and removing the deadeyes as needed and it is easier on the model as well. Thanks Allan
  4. I suggest using good quality artist tubed acrylics rather than bottled paints. I have used both over the years and there is no comparison in quality and consistency. Liquitex Professional Heavy Body is my personal paint of choice and comes in a full range of colors including yellow ocre. You can darken it with some burnt umber or lighten it with titanium white as you wish. Allan
  5. You are not alone. If you watch the Simon Stevens presentation on contemporary models at RMG you will see debris (and other objects) inside the hull of at least one of the 200+ year old models. https://www.thewellingtontrust.org/events/ships-in-miniature-a-brief-overview-of-the-ship-model-from-1800bc-to-the-present/ Allan
  6. Compared to the out of scale stuff supplied by almost all the popular kit makers, this is by far one of the nicest copper sheathing jobs seen in the build logs. Kudos to you for scrapping the junk in the kit and making your own. There may have been some diagonal patterns of nails inside the periphery of each piece but not very close together. Leaving them out though does not detract at all. Looking forward to your next posts. Allan
  7. Having seen so many build logs of the Sphinx from Vanguard here at MSW I got curious and went to the RMG Collections site. The site has every drawing one could hope for to produce an outstanding kit, and Chris has achieved exactly that. It is obvious a ton of study of these dozen or so drawings was made as the details from these drawings show up on the model. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Sphinx 1775 Allan
  8. Just a thought, but have you considered making your own? Re: Korabel, keep in mind possible boycotts. Allan
  9. Hi Jorge, Your workmanship looks great! A question, hope you don't mind. What are the holes in the picture below for? They look to be for belaying pins, but this ship would not have any belaying pins in real life as they were not used until about 1745 thus my question. Also, the openings in gratings were about 2.5"-3" or about 0.05" (1.25mm) at your scale, so a seaman's foot or heal would not get stuck in the openings. These look about double that size but it may just be the angle of the photo. Allan
  10. Well done!! Seeing a framed model of a schooner is a pleasure especially considering your beautiful workmanship. Looking forward to the next post. Allan
  11. Hi Tolis, Welcome to MSW!!! Assuming it is a ship, what ship are you building and to which scale? Allan
  12. Mark VERY interesting explanation, thanks for sharing! Allan
  13. Tiziano Are the two colors of wood used on the foremast partners different types of wood or was one stained? I really like the contrast as it shows the individual pieces very clearly. Looking forward to the next post!! Allan
  14. I am also a fan of 3D resin printed cannon barrels. The trick is getting or making your own STL drawings which is another skill that takes practice. Once done, at least they can be scaled by the printer so no need to have a new drawing for every scale. Allan
  15. These may be a haphazard set of photos but they show your skills, which are formidable!! Allan
  16. Hi Jonathan, The tops of the bitt pins around the fore mast would usually be about 42" +/- above the deck (14mm at 1:75) and the cross piece about 28"-30" (9mm-10mm at 1:75) The ones in the photo look to be much higher, but it may just be the photo. If you look at some of the high resolution contemporary inboard profile drawings on the Wiki Commons site you can see what I mean. While these are different ships, the contemporary drawings would be closer to the actual dimensions. For one of a number of examples go to https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich and scroll down to Essex 1741 RMG 3912.png Allan
  17. Dave Your wood work really is clean and looks great! Regarding the copper sheathing, I think the tape you mentioned using in the past would look far more realistic. Those giant pimples on the kit supplied material really detract from any model if realism is a consideration. Allan
  18. Welcome to MSW Gene. It is hard for me to find time to work on models living in SW Florida, but if I was in the Keys, it would be even more difficult as the fishing and snorkeling is too good to pass up unless the wind is blowing too hard. Which of the 200 miles of Keys are you on? Our biggest population of part timers here in the Naples area are from Minnesota and none of them are heading north before May. You must love the cold to be heading back in March 😀 Allan
  19. Grey, Study the build logs here at MSW on any kit you are considering and compare to contemporary models and you will see the collection of mistakes in many kits, especially OcCre, Artesania and some others. They are are more like someone's fantasy than a realistic looking vessel from incorrect planking methods to out of scale and inappropriate parts. As you are a beginner, look at the David Antscherl series at Model Shipways. They will teach you skills that you can carry forward to other more complex kits or possibly scratch building at some point. Allan
  20. Totally agree with Eberhard's statement. They will cause more mistakes than doing things the old fashioned way. If the third pieces are proposed to be used for rigging, as posted above, make your own, buy some cheap dental tools, or tap your dentist for worn out tools. Allan
  21. https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-brushes-rotary/ Scroll down a page or two and there are a number of choices Allan
  22. Mr. Baron You are not the only one to have sent their fleet to the bottom with M80s. Cherry bombs did a good job as well.😀 Welcome aboard Allan
  23. Nicely put together! I realize it is typical of OcCre's numerous mistakes in their kits but I just don't understand why they continue showing the use of belaying pins on these older vessels when they were not used until about 1745. Allan
  24. Hi Roger I am very curious to know which books you gave away or better, which you use on a somewhat regular basis. I have about 40 or 50 books I rarely, if ever, use and could probably let go and not miss them. There are another dozen that get used once in a while and my top 15 or so that I reference on a regular basis depending on the project and/or item I am dealing with. Thanks Allan
  25. With Seawatch closed and no new ownership solidified it is a bit crazy with many of the books they offered for sale. IF there are any copies left in their inventory you can get pricing by going on their website )https://www.seawatchbooks.com) which gives an email address to contact for more information on their stock of books. Allan
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