allanyed
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Rick, Drag files here to attach, or choose files.. This is the bar that appears on the bottom left when you are typing a reply that Chris mentioned. Allan
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Glenn, What is the narrowest blade that the Kell holder will take? Thank you! Allan -
Hi South Your photos show over all very nice workmanship. Your question is intriguing. When Chapelle refers to solid covers, it sounds like it would be a solid wood cover, but perhaps canvas over the grating. Another possible solution is having the grating flush as in your second photo and then a cover with sides. see sketch below. I really have no firm answer, but over all I would trust Chapelle the vast majority of the time and would rarely trust many kits without doing some researching as you have done. Allan
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- Bluejacket Shipcrafters
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Rick, Excellent that you researched and came to a great conclusion on a first build. Too many folks don't bother researching and get suckered into starting with kits that are too large/complicated and/or not of the best quality in plans, materials and historical accuracy. Chuck has researched and developed a realistic model that is to-scale in all aspects with fine materials from what I have seen and heard. Hope you start a build log. You will get advice if you hit a snag and ask for it as you now have over 40,000 potential friends and teachers here in the wings. Allan
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Druxey, I believe you have chisels from Mihail. If that is the case are you using the Veritas guide system with the chisels from Mihail? I have not had success in using my Veritas unit for these small chisels, but would love to. It works great for chisels of about 1/4" inch wide and wider, but not so well (for me at least) for smaller blade widths. Greg and Druxey, do you have a go-to angle that you prefer on your Veritas system or do you vary it for different chisels? TIA Allan
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Continuing to love your build! With copper wire being as soft as it is, is it really necessary to set up on the lathe rather than just winding by hand? I have always hand wound, but then again, the max diameter has been about 24 gage. Allan
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Jon With top quality turnbuckles costing a small fortune, making that many is a wise choice. As you get these to where you are pleased with the results, it would be super if you could do a step by step photo shoot of the process. Loving your build! Allan
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Hi Branko, Thank you for your video. Sabatini may be mistaken as I don't believe belaying pins were used in the 15th century, and if they were, certainly not made of iron. From research and discussing here at MSW in some depth it appears belaying pins of any kind really would not have been used until sometime in the 18th century so there would be none on a model such as in your video. Allan
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Bending Brass Cannon Tail
allanyed replied to Jonathan_219's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
You can use a cheap butane cigar torch and heat the barrels until cherry red. This what I used for silver soldering before buying a soldering torch so there is no question it will produce the heat you need. Let the barrel air cool or dunk it in water. It will be soft enough to bend much more easily with the pliers. I would put a piece of scrap leather between the brass and pliers no matter how you do it to avoid scratching the barrel. My concern with heating though is if the ball at the end is glued on. Also it looks like you put in the trunnion so it may better to do the heating before pressing the trunnion in place. If it is glued in, you can always take it out before heating the barrel. In that case, put it back in after the heat treatment but before bending the barrel. Allan -
Hi Laggard, Did you consider using a harder wood such as castello, Alaskan cedar, or some other rather than soft wood like bass? If you have to stay with basswood If you have access to a band saw or table saw you can always cut your own from blocks. Consider no plank is over about 30 feet long so even at 1:48 the block of wood need only be about 8 inches long. Allan
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Dave Study the planking tutorials here at MSW as well as build logs. If you spile as described by David Antscherl or side bend with heat as described by Chuck Passaro so that the plank is shaped to what it should be before gluing it to the hull framing, there is no reason for using pins or in most cases clamps of any kind. Finger pressure for less than a minute with PVA glue (or 10 seconds with some CA glues if that is your preferred glue) is all that is needed if the plank has been properly pre-shaped. There seems to always be a couple strakes that will give fits, but a minimum amount of clamping and certainly no nails, are necessary in those cases. One problem with pins in some cases is that the hole they make might be larger than the treenails that would be used if you decide to treenail the planking as well as gluing so they will look totally out of scale unless you have very thin pins. Keep in mind a maximum treenail diameter of 1.5" then you can figure the hole/treenail size for your scale. It takes patience and practice, but it can be done with either method described above as you can see with quite a few of the build logs here at MSW. Good luck. Allan
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McMaster Carr is easy to navigate, has good quality and has a LOT of choices. The least expensive ones at MC are MUCH better than the stuff at Micromark. As said above and many time before, quality is not cheap and as you can see from the responses, there are other sources of quality bits as well. No matter the quality, for the tiniest sizes, consider buying several of each as it is no fun when one breaks and there is no back up in the bin. Allan
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Welcome aboard Steve! Living in Alicante must be super if it is anything at all like I remember it. It was my first ever foreign port of call in 1966 while serving aboard as a cadet on the SS Brasil. Good times!! Allan
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Some folks like to add sails, some don't. If you look at contemporary ship models, sails are a rarity. If you decide you must have sails, research the subject here at MSW thoroughly as there has been a lot of discussion on materials. Sail material in kits generally is pretty much useless as it is out of scale. The consensus here is that no woven cloth exists that is to scale for 1:48 or smaller. Silk span and other nonwoven materials is a great substitution. There are lot of otherwise fantastic models to be found here, both scratch and kit, and many have been utterly ruined with out-of-scale sails. In addition to the many discussions here at MSW, consider buying the booklet on sail making from Seawatch Books by David Antscherl. https://www.seawatchbooks.com/ItemDisplay.php?sku=115003 Good luck. Allan
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Dziadeczek If you find a good source that offers more than one grade please post the link. I would like to experiment with different thicknesses as well. I have only had one thickness and I don't know if it is the thickest or thinnest. Regardless of what you wind up using, even the thickest span will be closer to scale to any cloth that exists for 1:48 or smaller. Allan
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Gun Port wreaths
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you Jaager and David. Not "wounding" the wales makes total sense and with the vast majority of contemporary models confirming this, that is the route I will follow. Allan -
Looking at photos of contemporary models, most appear to have gun port wreaths that have a groove/rabbet cut to accommodate wales or moldings. A few have the moldings or wales cut so the wreath can lay flush against the hull without any wood removed from the back of the wreath. I cannot find anything indicating what the actual practice was. If anyone has information based on contemporary descriptions I would be grateful to learn how this was done in actual practice. Examples on contemporary models follow: TIA Allan Wreath over wales and molding Wreath with wales cut to fit.
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1st Planking Video
allanyed replied to Glenn-UK's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you very much for posting this Glenn. After watching the video, it brought a question to mind, what is a professional model builder? In looking at definitions for other hobbies such as photography, by definition, an amateur is “a person who engages in a pursuit or activity for pleasure rather than for financial benefit.” On the other hand, the definition of a professional is a little less straightforward. Sources define a professional as simply as “one who earns a living for their occupation,” or as vague as “a person who is expert at his or her work.” Clearly, it’s this vagueness of what a professional is that is at the root of many debates. There are many members here that do work far superior to that shown in her video and some do sell some of their models, so, are they professional model builders? Is building a kit versus scratching a part of the definition in ship modeling? I have no idea of the answers, if there even are any, just curious to know what others think. Thanks again for the link Allan -
Need to find a nut and plant it for..... the next generation of ship modelers. Very pretty wood! Thanks Matiz
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Matiz, Sorry amico, but I have a few questions, I hope you don't mind😁 How are you drawing the walnut down so small and so well? I use a Byrnes plate and find bamboo works best for me, but never tried walnut. Do you know what species of walnut? Thanks!!! Allan
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Good find on the photo Dafi, und danke for the drawings. As with most things in this hobby, there do not seem to be any constants. Allan
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Ciao Matiz, Sorry if you posted about this previously, but what is the material you are using for the bolts? When we worked on Euryalus I used blackened brass but since then I have gone to copper. The bolt can be inserted, cut, filed, cleaned (this is critical to get out copper filings) and then blackened in place with liver of sulfur. Your build is inspiring!!! Allan
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OK, anyone wanting to reach out to Taz for 3D printing work............. https://www.treatstock.com/c/tazs-3d-printing I used this site for the first communications and everything was smooth although I now communcate via email directly or Skype. Allan
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Not sure if this topic fits this forum but it is an interesting topic none-the-less Laggard. Looking at some pretty extravagant RC boats that don't sink (usually), are there licenses or Coast Guard regulations involved to sail them? We had a 25 foot sport fisherman and would go fishing out in the ocean, cruise up the Hudson River, go through Hell Gate into Long Island Sound, etc. but I did not need license to operate a boat nor did I have to have it inspected. I did take a safety course by choice and I was boarded by the Coast Guard for a cursory safety check one time in 10 years, but most folks do not. The first time I gave the proper horn signal as I was about to pass another boat on their right I received a middle finger gesture in return. They must have missed the class on navigating in traffic. But, if you want to fly a rocket as a hobby you need a license even to buy the fuel in some states. Want to fly a drone over 300 feet? You need to pass a test to get certified to do so. Seems like boats are another matter unless you are taking paying customers wherein you need to be licensed. I would say the chances of someone sailing their RC boat somewhere where there is danger of hitting a person or another craft are small, but then again there are irresponsible folks no matter where we go, but, I digress, my apologies.
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Dunnock, there is a string on 3D printed cannons here at MSW that is active right now. I just received forty cannon barrels (twenty 6 pounders and twenty 12 pounders) and 100 port lid hinges for $20, including postage. I ordered smaller ones for my previous project and there are photos of them on the string. I believe Diana had Blomefield design guns so if you want to go the 3D printing route you would need STL format drawings of this design to get these made. (Mine were for the 17th century so not appropriate for Diana.) It really is worth the effort! Check out the string -------> https://modelshipworld.com/topic/29148-3d-printed-cannon-barrels/ Allan
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