allanyed
-
Posts
8,149 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by allanyed
-
Welcome to MSW Eddson, If you could please post in the new members and intro yourself that would be a nice thing. Regarding your problem, can you post some photos of these blocks? Are they internally stropped or externally stropped? Allan
-
C, That brings up even more of an issue. Were they Barbary Corsairs, or French Corsairs? Sounds like it might have been the Arab corsairs as the French corsairs were state authorized privateers. John, the bolt rope was "stitched" around the entire perimeter of the sails. How did you rig the bolt rope to the model without the sails? Pictures?? Probably a simple answer but I just cannot get my head around this one. Thanks!!! Allan -
C. Remember that Lennarth Peterson's book is specific to one ship and one era, a three masted British 36 gun 5th rate of 1785 so other sources may be worth investigating that are closer to a brig such as your corsair. Allan
-
1762 Beaumont seems to have been found
allanyed replied to mtaylor's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thanks Mark, We will be spending a day in Antigua in January as one of the ports of call on our cruise. I just looked and there is an excursion to Nelson's Dockyard, woohooo!!! Your post made it easy to decide what we (I) will be doing for most of that day ashore. Thanks again! Allan -
Thanks for the correction Will. FYI, actually flat head nails were used rather than rivets, thus the reason they would be pushed in versus raised. If they had only been put on upside down!! 😃 Still, beautiful workmanship in putting them on. Allan
-
Eurus, They look like roof tiles but I THINK they are as much about deco as functionality. 17th century and early 18th century galleries had solid tops on their galleries, but they were still roofs of a sort with other styles of decoration instead of tiles. Maybe the tiles do act as some protection from the elements as well as being a decoration. For modeling purposes I have mostly seen them carved from a solid piece but I remember seeing one or two from individual shingles. FYI, the earliest I can find of this style on contemporary models is 1740 but could have been used before that. I could find none with this construction before 1720. Allan
-
Eurus There is not much about that model that is realistic, but those decorator models were, well, just that, decorator models. Allan
-
Absolutely lovely work Jon!! I especially like the that you have spent a ton of time researching your project. Based on the questions we see here at MSW of late, it seems research is becoming more and more a part of the scratch builds and the positive results are evident. The only problem with research is that sometimes there are days when I enjoy it as much or more than making sawdust. Allan
-
Eurus, I have never seen a roof at the stern itself like on this model and agree with you that if there was an aft deckhouse it would probably not have roof tiles. But, as they are shown on the galleries, this was typical on many, if not most, British war ships in the 18th century. A couple examples of contemporary models on display at Preble Hall are below. Allan
-
Omega It looks like a mass produced decorator model. Sorry to say this probably does not represent any real ship and is likely a figment of someone's imagination who had no knowledge of real ships. One example, if any ship actually had turrets in the stern like on your model, there would not have been the four cannon in those turrets as there is no room for the carriages or people to work them. A quick search on the internet showed the red crosses on the sails are similar to that used by the Portuguese. Dragon figure heads are more akin to Scandinavian vessels. If you do a search here at MSW, you will find a bunch of these mass produced pieces about which folks have made enquiries and may find additional information that could be interesting for you. If you do want to refurbish it, go for it. It could wind up as it was meant to be, a fun decoration for your home. Allan
-
You can pretty much include all lines, including buntlines, leechlines, sheets, and tacks. If you look at some contemporary model photos such as those at RMG and Preble Hall, you can see how they rig as most contemporary model do not include sails. I agree with your decision not to install sails as there are no existing kits that I have seen or heard about that have sails that are remotely close to being to scale. One photo of a model at Preble Hall as an example without sails follows. Hopefully other members will have suggestions of where to look for more information. Obviously you will need more close ups &c but this will give you an idea of the look without sails. Lots of beautiful models are ruined when cloth sails are added unless the model is a large scale such as 1:12 or maybe 1:24. If you do decide to go with sails, consider silkspan. There is an inexpensive booklet by David Antscherl available from Seawatch Books and some You Tube videos on how to make sails with silkspan as well as some information here at MSW. Allan
-
Ciao Matiz If you tell me we are going to drink Brunello de Montalcino and have olive oil from San Casciano or Luca, I will try to get there next week!!! One of my all time favorite restaurants in San Casciano is Ristorante Nello. They had wines in their cellar that were far older than I am, a true step back in time. Surely they are vinegar by now, but it was such a delight to see these old vintages still being cared for. Sorry to go off the ship modeling track but this has brought back many wonderful memories. Allan
-
Buona giornata Matiz, She is looking beautiful. I wish I was still traveling to your part of the world as I would love to see your model in person. Alas, since retiring the work trips every two or three months to Toscana (mainly Firenze and San Casciano) have come to an end. Hopefully I will be back in the next few years and we can sip some grappa together in Pisa. Ciao Allan
-
Rich, You show a photo a big block of wood that is being rasped, but I think Laggard's issue is regarding planking. I may be dead wrong but I would think rasping planking that is less than 0.1" thick to start with could be too hard to control. I find various shaped home made sanding sticks with 80 or 120 grit take off wood very quickly and are easy to control for flat, convex, and concave shapes found on a hull. Allan
-
Hello from Texas Longhorn Country
allanyed replied to Glen McGuire's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Glen Warm welcome to MSW. At least you only did one big project before discovering this motley crew. Most of us had no such source when we did our first build and the second, and third and on and on but here we are, still going after it but with a lot more knowledge being shared by others. Cheers Allan -
Wood Filler Advice
allanyed replied to Ed Gibbons's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Ed, I use the method (sort of) that Jaager describes. For truly tiny gaps, and wood that is to be left unpainted, force PVA into the gap and sand. The sanding will create the wood flour and fill the gap. For gaps more than 0.01 or so, it may be better to take out the errant plank before putting in the next one and redo with no gap. Don't know where you are in PA, but GO STEELERS!!! If you are an Eagles fan my apologies for my cheer for Pittsburgh. Allan -
Not to worry Lag, Most of us have issues at times getting planking to be tight. Next time study the tutorials here at MSW by David Antscherl and Chuck Passaro and if you follow their methods you will be able to throw out the putty. Allan
-
HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
allanyed replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Ron, This is one of the most difficult jobs, at least it always has been for me. Another build brought this up yesterday for a different ship, but the solutions varied. Chisels and sand paper, belt sander and hand sanding, plane and sanding. Did you hand sand with sanding sticks or ???? I agree that Ed's mini wooden hand screw clamps are a joy to use. Love your workmanship!!!! Allan- 122 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Euryalus
- Plank-on-frame
- (and 4 more)
-
Cheap steamer
allanyed replied to Johnny Mike's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Steam may be huge overkill for our modeling purposes. I find that the Kammerlander method of soaking the wood in water anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the wood, then heating with a hot iron works very quickly and very well for both soft wood and hard wood up to about Janka 2000 (Castello is 1820). English boxwood is a challenge but I save my little supply for carving work small pieces that would be prone to breaking with other species. (English boxwood is J2800) A video of the Kammerlander method was posted here at MSW last year by member Dziadeczek. Allan -
Jaager, Shaping the narrowing in several directions is a challenge to say the least. I mark the thicknesses along the two outboard edges of the completed knee of the head all the way around then temporarily glue a block to one side somewhere in the middle. The block is big enough to be able to hold with several fingers and thumb. Then I carefully sand it close to the lines on one side with my belt sander. Once close, I remove the block and temporarily glue to the sanded side and repeat the sanding on the other side. Once this is done I use a big sanding block to finish. A plane maybe a great way to go to make the tapers, but based on TFFM, the taper is not a straight line as there is a slight curve for the first few feet in the area of the upper portion of the inboard most hawse piece. This can be handled using the end of the belt sander and hand sanding, but a plane may prove difficult. This initial taper ends at what I THINK would be below the hance as described in the 1719 Establishment (the 15" dimension you indicate.) I don't know if this was something on all ships, particularly Centurion. The balance of the taper going down would then be 15" to 13" at the foot. Chisels would work as well but my chisel skills leave something to be desired. If this description sounds complex, the actual execution in making the tapers is worse. Allan
-
HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48
allanyed replied to AdamA's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I am a bit late to the party but am happy to see a new scratch build! If you don't mind a couple comments that are meant to encourage, not discourage regarding the deadwood forward and aft and the moulded dimensions of the top timbers, please let us know. Allan -
I don't if this will help Jaager. It is a combination of scantlings from the 1719 Establishment and the bow photo of Centurion from RMG. Hopefully someone more familiar will have better information specific to Centurion 1732. There is a lot of detail on this area in TFFM Volume I but I don't know if ratios would be apropos for a 4th rate of 1732. At the top, the width of the stem is 21" and the knee of the head is slightly thinner (19"?) at the top where it fays to the stem. The taper to 8 inches at the foremost part of the knee of the head was found using the photo itself. The taper going down is using width of the foot of the knee of the head matching the width of the keel forward, which the 1719 Establishment shows to be 13" for a 60 gun ship. Allan
-
Glenn, Looking fine!! I hope you don't mind a question, but I have never seen a dead eye with five holes. Is this something from the kit and/or is this based on actual contemporary practice? Vanguard has a great reputation for accuracy so I assume it is accurate. Practically, it looks like it could make sense, but I have only seen a lanyard make five passes with either open or closed hearts on contemporary models and in rigging books. Thanks!! Allan
-
boom rigging on a ship's launch boat
allanyed replied to Peanut6's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Considering what Druxey wrote, the sailing rig was available but probably not used if for normal shore excursions where rowing probably was the standard means of propulsion so it is possible there were choices to be made depending on which was to be used. I wish George Wells and his machine were nearby. I'd tell him I was David Filby IV and ask to take a ride back in time instead of forward. At least going back I know which years in which to avoid stopping, starting with 2020. Maybe some member can build a new one like the one George used with success. I'd be happy to supply a five point seat belt to make it a little safer. -
boom rigging on a ship's launch boat
allanyed replied to Peanut6's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Spyglass, What you state makes perfect sense. As with so many instances on finding information on rigging I keep looking but cannot find much contemporary to Royal Navy ships' boats in the 17th century to the early 19th century. that describes cleats on the booms other than a cleat for the peek downhaul located under the boom. Steel has us following the description for schooners and sloops for launches and long boats, using hooks into eyebolts on the mast and taffrail for the downhauls and such. He also describes downhauls on cutters leading to the deck. Could you please steer me to a source on cleats on the booms as this search has been extremely frustrating. Many thanks for your help! Allan
Our Emblem ®
