yvesvidal
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Everything posted by yvesvidal
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What a beautiful l ship... and that bow is amazing of perfection. Yves- 345 replies
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- Duchess Of Kingston
- Vanguard Models
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well, after the capstan and the wheel, you now need to build the ship that goes around them, also at the 1/16 scale. Yves
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Giampiero, Will you be keeping the top of the hull black or will you paint it Royal Blue for the background of the friezes, as many models have suggested? Yves
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The acrylic resin has been brushed on the inside of the port side: This seals the wood from external agents (humidity mostly) and increases the bonding strength of the wood glue. The resin is permeating the wood fibers and contributing to their resiliency against aging, hygroscopic and temperature changes. It is suggested by CAF and has been used with success by many modelers before. Yves
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One side done: Now, I have to brush the resin on the inside and do some sanding to make it silky smooth: Yves
- 507 replies
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Incredible and beautiful work. I am speechless.... Yves
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Beautiful woodwork. Yves
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Thank you Mike. Yes, coppering and a second planking in visible parts, are in order. After all, I am also entitled to a second planking.... 🙂 like so many other kits. Yves
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The third quadrant has been completed: I know that a lot of experts will see my construction as blasphemy and heresy to what should be done. It is okay and I understand their point of view. I did the best I could, knowing that this hull will be copper tiled and that most of the planking will be hidden. The most important for me was to embrace the shapes and curves of the hull and to make progress in a relatively decent amount of time. The original planks are 8 mm x 3 mm of poplar/limewood strips. To accommodate the sharp curve of the bow in two dimensions/directions, I decided to slice each plank into two 4 mm x 3 mm strakes. It is a lot easier to handle and I built the planking from the whales up to the mid hull, like a stair with enough steps overlap. Once sanded, the hull is very round and still offers a decent level of sturdiness and solidity. A tiny amount of wood paste is necessary in some places to fill up some of the steps, so created. From the keel down, the planking is placed directly against the bulkeads, until the strakes meet as pictured below: The overall results is rather nice (at least in my humble opinion) and replicates quite accurately the external curves of the ship. It is a lot of work as close to 40 small strakes had to be glued one after the other to create the bow: This is where I stand at this moment: I think I will be finishing the port side of the hull, before moving to the other side: Yves
- 507 replies
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I second Craig: this deck is superb. Yves
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Beautiful results, Moonbug. I wish I can do as good as you did, on my upcoming hull. Yves
- 419 replies
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- Victory Models
- Pegasus
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Beautiful! Good thing you painted the strakes separately.... Yves
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Andrew, Quite often, these furry and wonderful companions are here to help us with karma. It is not uncommon for them to take upon themselves a disease that should have otherwise affected us. We suffer through their loss, but the physical pain in our body is spared by their unconditional love for us. They truly are furry angels of great wisdom and generosity. I have lost quite a few cats (and other animals) during my life and understand very well what you are going through. Yves
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I am using Thick & Quick Titebond to glue most of the planks on my Bellona 1/48. It gives you about 2-3 minutes maximum of wiggle time. After that it becomes really thick and unusable. The good thing is that it will allow you to press part for two or three minutes with your fingers, when tying it up with clamps is not possible. A good compromise between CA and regular glue. Yves
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John, That is a great build of a very old kit. I cannot believe that they did not design this hull as planked, as that shape would be very easy to plank correctly. I am glad that you managed to "insert" some planking into its building .... 😉 These paddle boats are some of my favorites and I will be following your build with a lot of interests. Yves
- 236 replies
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- Robert E Lee
- steamboat
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Dave, thank you for the thorough answers to my questions. Yes, I think I am going to go with the tape too, as the tiles offered by CAF Model are too small and way too expensive. Yves
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Chris, Thank you for correcting my false assumptions. I like brass (the metal...) but agree with you that 3D printed resin is way superior for accuracy and details. Yves
- 488 replies
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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David, This copper tiling is looking fabulous. Could you tell us what kind of copper ribbon did you use (Brand)? Thickness? Backing (clear or black)? Width? How did you prepare the wood of the hull to get a good adhesion? I will have to copper tile my Bellona (1/48th) soon and I am trying to learn the process and follow the recipes of people who had successful results. Thanks in advance. Yves
- 91 replies
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- Speedy
- Vanguard Models
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Very promising kit. I like the details on the gun carriage wheels. The 3D printed guns are very crisp and usually better detailed than brass guns. I understand that brass guns would impact negatively the final price of the kit with so much armament, and 3D printed guns will reduce, weight, cost and already have the right color. Yves
- 488 replies
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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Chris, I am very glad to see the Master of Cruise Liners back on the saddle. Still waiting to see that 1/200 Titanic kit.... 🙂 Yves
- 24 replies
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- Queen Elizabeth 2
- Gunze Sangyo
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Kevin, you may want to organize all these wires as they will not fit inside the hull. Also, the light leaking out of the modules will look ugly, through the openings of the deck. Yves
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