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SJSoane

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  1. Hi, everyone, I finished making the gratings (sanding to profile yet to go...). The mill method worked fine, allowing me to make the gratings to exact size. Since the battens and ledges remain constant sizes in width, the only way to fit a specified opening exactly is to vary the spaces between in both directions. The mill allowed this kind of accuracy, and the gundeck drawing shows the new gratings fitting exactly. Sanding the bottom to reveal the spaces between ledges is fairly straightforward; I used sandpaper glued to plywood, to keep it all flat. The first photo shows what happens when the sanding gets close to finish--thin strips peel away. These are pretty accurately to size now, following Steel. My earlier ones were much out of scale; don't know how it happened, but ..... The last photo shows my new jig for repeatedly cutting thin strips (the battens, in this case) from the left side of the saw. Much safer and cleaner cuts. Many thanks to Michael Mott who helped me refine this idea. You can see the discussion in the Tools Forum, under micro jig. Best wishes, Mark
  2. Danny, Fantastic work on the pumps. I had been wondering how to do the pump brakes, and you lay it all out in a very clear tutorial! Mark
  3. Hi Michael, Here is Mk1 of the jig. I didn't get around to making the specialized clamp around the table yet, and used a regular clamp temporarily to see how it would work. It is great. The micro-adjuster allowed me to sneak up on a perfect measure, and it was very fast and efficient to cut, move the fence and wood, cut again. It is safer, and the saw cuts more cleanly, making those small cuts on the left side of the sawblade rather than tight up against the fence. The nylon screw is gentle on the edge of the wood, and acts as a featherboard of sorts for holding the wood against the fence. My original drawing shows the clamp a little out of proportion to the actual table top. There is actually less overhang, and so less area for the clamp to grip. I am not sure how sturdy this original idea will be. I'll work on it another time... Thanks again for the elegant idea of the rod rather than the sliding wood stop. Mark
  4. Hi Michael There is nothing like a shop reorganization for bringing more order into the world! Mark
  5. I just came across your project. Beautiful work! I wonder if the individual parts could be sent to a three-D printer...! Mark
  6. Hi Remco, Can you show us how you did that? A scraper could not get into that tight corner. Mark
  7. Hi druxey, On reading Antscherl in more detail, I drafted up the pumps based on the scanty information in the original admiralty drawings deck plan, and reconciled it with Antscherl's detailed reconstruction. I now believe that the circles I see in the deck plan may well be the rounded tops of the pump tubes seen within the cistern, not at the top of the deck where they have turned into octagons. I am going with the Antscherl reconstruction. Interestingly, the dimensions of the tubes on the 74 gun ship seem to be only an inch larger in diameter than the ones for the sloops. Mark
  8. Thanks, Michael, I left a note at the tools and equipment posting. Mark
  9. Nice, Michael! Much simpler and more elegant than my original sketch. I worried at first that the micro adjusting screw needs to be accessible even when the fence might be too close for a screwdriver to fit, and then I remembered that the fence can simply be moved away. Problem solved. I'll try building this next weekend; it will really come in handy for repeatable strips. Mark
  10. Hi Gary, This is a great way to go back and revisit details that were long covered up by later work. It is a great reminder of your excellent craftsmanship and attention to detail, including in the research! Mark
  11. Karl, this is some of the best craftsmanship I have ever seen. Beautiful. Mark
  12. Greg, that is very ingenious. If I can't make my self-jigging idea work, I am building this jig for sure. Mark
  13. Greg, I assume 1/4" scale? Amazing. Mark
  14. Remco, Wow. You are so good at this that you might consider the fine beading along the edges of the capstan whelps and chocks in Napier's Legacy of a Ship Model on page 76, when you get to it. I did not see that detail in the original Bellona model, and so I did not attempt it. I'm not sure I could have done it. But I'll bet you can! Mark
  15. Thanks, Ed, that it explains it well. It is a treat to watch these again! Mark
  16. Hi Michael, Here is the saw stop I was thinking about making, inspired by your inventions. It indexes cuts on the side opposite the fence, with a micro-adjuster. I'll bet there is a more elegant way of doing this. Any thoughts? Mark
  17. Remco, Perfection! I have a question about your mast wedge and partners. Since the mainmast angles aft, and the deck slopes, did you bore your hole through the partners at an angle? Or does the wedge make up the difference? Mark
  18. Hi druxey, The more I read about this, the more interesting it gets. Please correct me if I haven't got anything right in what I am about to say... Putting aside the mechanics inside, the first question for outward appearance is whether the tubes are square, octagonal or round. The pump with the most documentation that I can see is the Cole pump, which has square tubes. But this was first tested in 1768, almost a decade later than the Bellona of 1760, so my pump is earlier. Could my pump also have had square tubes, inherited later by the Cole pump? The deck plan of the Bellona suggests round. And Falconer in his 1769 Dictionary shows pumps in his deck plan with round tubes just like the Bellona. But Falconer's detailed drawing of the pumps in elevation is described by Dodds and Moore (Building the Wooden Fighting Ship, p. 100) as a Cole pump. The elevation drawing does not reveal the cross section of the tubes. If this were a Cole pump, and Falconer shows his deck with round tubes like the Bellona, perhaps the circles in the plan show an inner tube, not the outer casing? David Antscherl, vol. 1. and 2 gives great detail on the pump, and describes his reconstruction as predating the Cole. I am inclined to follow this. But he shows octagonal tubes, bored like the dale tubes. And he points out that dale tubes were earlier rounded after they left the cistern. Could the Bellona be showing rounded pump tubes, like the earlier dale tubes, as described by Antscherl? Mark
  19. Thanks, John, I could learn from the captains! While pondering the next steps after the gratings, I have been looking at the pumps around the mainmast. My drawing from the Admiralty, ca. 1760, shows pumps tubes that are circular in plan. The later Coles-Bentinck pump of 1770s show rectangular tubes. Is there any reason to believe that mine are not circular? Would they have been continuous hollowed trunks like the dales, or made in sections for removal and cleaning? I have looked in Lavery's Arming and Fitting, which shows the drawing from Falconer ca. 1760 on page 71, with what appear to be continuous tubes of unknown cross-section.... Best wishes, Mark
  20. Doris, Perfection. One could never imagine what this is made of, and it rivals the 18th century model makers. Mark
  21. Absolutely gorgeous work. Perfection! Mark
  22. Alexandru, It is great to see this again. Beautiful work! Mark
  23. Hi Ed, Your reposting was very timely for me. I have been pondering how to color the wales and possibly spirketting, and I have been playing with shoe polish. But like your ink, it is very runny and does not cut up to a masking line without following the grain under the mask. Did you color the wales before installing? Or did you figure out a way to keep it where you put it? Scoring the edge? Best wishes, Mark
  24. Hi Michael, Did you post the details of the serving machine elsewhere? I am very curious to see the details. I'll try to do a drawing of the jig I have in mind for the Byrnes saw, in the next day or so. Your inventions have got me thinking.....;-) Mark
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