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Jim Lad
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Everything posted by Jim Lad
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It's great to see her all back up on the forum, Popeye. Well done in putting up all those posts again! John -
Thanks for the support, Sinan! John
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Garward, I've sent you a PM John
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Oh, Michael - that's brilliant - working at both ends of the scale world! John
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Crikey, mate, it looks like that engine would actually operate with a little steam injected! John
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Elia - thanks for your support, mate! Druxey - the plans were taken off by the Royal Navy in 1839 and I think are the most detailed I have ever seen. As far as I'm aware, chain cables were first used in 1808 and Augustus Earle's painting 'View of the Midshipmen's quarters on biard a ship of war 1820' shows a chain cable. Floyd - See comment above re chain cables. I'm modelling Stag in mid career (hence 6 guns - she started life with either 2 or 4) so chain is, I think appropriate. The windlass barrels and drum ends were rounded by hand (square; taper; eight sided; round) and the 'waisting' put in with a half round file. The gears are discs of wood with the gears filed in. John
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Question on use of crowsfeet on ship rigged vessels
Jim Lad replied to Beef Wellington's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Jason, Crowsfeet went out of use at about the end of the 18th century, so you could probably build your cruiser with or with them. The use of crowsfeet was to stop the foot of the topsail from chafing on or getting tangled in the lower rigging. John -
Pat, i won't be at the museum until Wednesday of next week, but I'll have my camera with me! John
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Hey, Mobbsie, I somehow missed the fact that your 'monster' is back! It's great to see you both! John
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Pat, I didn't think that AOTS and the replica would have differed very much, but I'd go with either one of those rather than the kit plans. If you need any photos of particular parts of the replica just yell - she's at home in the museum at the moment. John
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Floyd, the Stag's windlass design is a little unusual, but here are a couple of crops from the original plan. John
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Nice to see her heading in the right direction now, Pat. John
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Cheers, Popeye. I promise I'll check my camera batteries before going to the museum next time! John
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What is the best order of adding sails and spars???
Jim Lad replied to Modeler12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Jay, In order to more easily get the correct tension on the running rigging, attaching to the yards and sails first is probably best. I know it can be difficult reaching belaying points, but that's what we get for building to scale instead of full size! John -
What is the best order of adding sails and spars???
Jim Lad replied to Modeler12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Jay, I find that it's usually better to have as much as possible rigged before you actually attach the spars to the model. When the yard is off the model it's much easier to manipulate to get all the little fittings properly attached. John -
Michael, It's your own fault for working at such a large scale. If you worked at 1:96 a lot of that detail would be invisible! John
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The answer may be - it depends! If you're starting with a square billet of wood, then you can mark the taper out and plane down to the taper first, then when you round your spar the taper is already worked into it. If you're starting with a round dowel then, assuming you don't have a lathe, many people chuck the dowel in a drill press or a hand held electric driss that has been clamped in a fixed place and then use files and sandpaper to taper the rotating dowel. John
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Michael, Your block with the 'hard' eye strop is much better! Usually, the seizing went all the way around the thimble. John
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Kats, It's great to see the way that you're rebuilding the Lady's log! John
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Sarah, I've made that type of spurling pipe in the past from brass tube. Heat the tube to red heat and allow it to cool in order to anneal it; put a piece of wire of roughly the inside diameter of the tube up inside it to stop it from kinking and then bend it over 90 degrees and cut off to length. If you do it that way you can also leave a bit of length on one end of it to put into the deck. John
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Michael, Stropped blocks usually had a thimble in the eye, and the strop around the thimble was usually served, as well. Looking at your photo of the stropped block, it looks like the rope of the strop has become partially unlaid in the process, which is what's making it look odd. John
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Thanks folks. If we don't all get washed away in this latest East Coast rain depression, I'll try and get back to work! John
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