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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Try Model Motorcars website. They purchased Scale Hardware and have a wide variety of small bolts and rivets. https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/bolts
  2. dvm27
    The eye likes what the eye likes, Steve. Personally, I think R's version looks a bit jarring. For another approach watch this YouTube video by our member Ohla. I think it's beautifully done.
  3. dvm27
    Are you going to show the after-cleaning photos Kevin? Just kidding, of course. I spent the day cleaning my shop as well. No guests, but I couldn't find anything anymore.
  4. dvm27
    It's been decades since I built my fully framed Swan class model. But I recall the deck beams being let into the clamps by 1". At any rate it's only important for the top of the knee to be flush with the top of the beam so the decking will be supported. Usually the underside of the lodging knee was an inch shy of the bottom of the beam.
  5. dvm27
    Sounds interesting. Just be sure not to over-illuminate and keep the light color on the yellowish side to mimic lantern light.
  6. dvm27
    Mabuhay Kale! Spent four memorable years in Quezon City decades ago. The Model Shipwright series is a great way to learn the hobby of ship model making. After that perhaps try your hand at a Banca.
  7. dvm27
    Just for fun I tried to turn a smaller belaying pin from the box wood and was able to turn the pin portion down to 0.010" but when I turned the handle portion at 0.015" the pin portion whipped and separated off. perhaps you could make them in two sections as Druxey does.
  8. dvm27
    The belaying pins are now installed in their shroud deflectors. That's a term I had never read before but that's what they're called according to Markquardt. Perhaps they're called pin rails only when affixed to the inner bulwarks. The deflectors have grooves filed on the outboard edge for the shrouds and lashings inboard and are surprisingly strong once attached. At any rate, I was able to hone my lathe technique to turn out consistent pins. Next it's on to ratlines. Perhaps Archjofo would fly in from Germany to show me how he successfully duplicated actual practice when securing them to the outer shrouds. Personally. I believe he used Photoshop as this is not humanly possible to do.
  9. dvm27
    Very tidy and scale-lie Tony.
  10. dvm27
    For rigging you can't beat surgical scissors like iris or Castroviejo scissors. The smaller 3 1/2" scissors are item #045067 and the larger 4 1/2" is item #056005. They are surgical stainless steel and you can cut knots flush with them. They are from Securos Surgical http://www.securos.com and are not cheap. But they will be the last scissors you ever need. They may sell to the general public. If not ask your veterinarian or ophthalmologist if they'll order for you. Beware of cheap, non-surgical imitations available from Amazon. when it comes to surgical instruments you get what you pay for.
  11. dvm27
    Very nicely done Giampiero. I also notice the perfectly positioned scupper holes internally and externally. I'll bet drilling them caused you no anxiety at all 😉 The fore port scupper looks to be lined with lead. Very convincing effect.
  12. dvm27
    The only thing more tedious than setting up the deadeyes and chains is ratting down but perhaps you're not rigging her.
  13. dvm27
    Pretty simple on the Sherline lathe. I just used the zero adjustable hand wheel. It was set to zero once the leg diameter of 0.020" was verified by caliper then backed off by 0.020" for the shaped top portion of the pin.
  14. dvm27
    Not too much progress to note on Speedwell but the standing rigging has commenced. A photo of her in her current state is shown below. She needs twenty belaying pins. For the most part I find commercial belaying pins clunky and like to make them myself. I have seen several different techniques but they did not work particularly well in my hands so, if you have a lathe, maybe try this technique. I discovered early in my machining, self-taught trials that in order to turn a very small diameter like the 0.020" leg of the belaying pin you have to turn against a much thicker stock or deflection occurs. In the first photo the 0.020" diameter is turned from 0.25" boxwood. The speed is high and the feed is very slow and consistent to avoid warping and deflection. The cutting tool backed off 0.020" to form the diameter of the head of the pin. The next step was impossible to photograph but a very fine Swiss file was used to reduce the area just above the transition. The rest of the head was shaped with a fine Swiss file. The finished belaying pin was parted with the knife edge of the file while shaping it's curved profile. Many extras were made to insure consistency. You can see the delicate elongated shape of the pins against the illustration by David Antscherl in our Speedwell book. The key takeaway for new home machinists is that you can turn very small diameters even in wood if you turn against a thicker stock. I can't say for sure exactly how thick but I should think at least four times the desired finished diameter.
  15. dvm27
    This little gem was recently sold by Sotheby's. Unfortunately, my bid came in at just slightly under the auction realization of 5,500,000 pounds. But, there is an amazing book on the Van de Veldes for the rest of us losers.
  16. dvm27
    The hull is shaping up nicely Kevin. On your next model (should you ever wish to plank again!) you'll learn how to install stealers and drop strakes to control the width of those planks at the bow and the stern.
  17. dvm27
    Nice job on the pump fittings. They were very fussy even with photoetched parts! Louvers look great as well.
  18. dvm27
    With all due respect I believe that natural rope does have a bit of a catenary or sag to it which I find quite natural and graceful. It is one of the lovely features of the Navy Board models and is quite difficult to emulate on a model.
  19. dvm27
    I'll bet mine is a lot bigger than yours!
  20. dvm27
    Very clever Marsalv. I like the short dowel you've placed in the tailstock to keep them from flying off. There's no short cut for hollowing out the deadeye holes though!
  21. dvm27
    As long as you are only removing a section of the surface face it is more accurate than hand filing for sure.
  22. dvm27
    Take a small strip of paper and abut it to the bottom plank or planking line. Then make sure the paper is lying on the frame and mark where the top plank crosses. This is the true distance between the frames. This tick strip can now be divided into the number of desired planks in tick marks. To prove this to yourself measure the distance as you are currently doing on a curved section of the hull then compare with the tick strip method as described. You'll see that your measurement is shorter than the tick strip and thus your planks may be narrower than they should be.
  23. dvm27
    Very nice Kevin! Your planking skills are improving with each video. When you measure the distance between planks to establish plank thicknesses it might be better to use tick strips. The digital caliper does not take into account the curve of the hull and will read shorter than the actual distance.
  24. dvm27
    Welcome to the bollard scrap pile club Ron! Nobody (except perhaps Druxey) nails them the first time. I cut the air spaces on my Byrnes table saw after the hawse and bollard timbers were "spot-welded" to each other with a few pinpoint dabs of yellow glue. The air spaces were then marked in pencil and the timbers separated. Then the Byrnes saw blade was raised 1/2" (scale) and the recess cut freehand.
  25. dvm27
    I too enjoyed working with square stock although of brass, which needed to be annealed before working. I assume the copper is soft enough not to require annealing?

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