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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Take a small strip of paper and abut it to the bottom plank or planking line. Then make sure the paper is lying on the frame and mark where the top plank crosses. This is the true distance between the frames. This tick strip can now be divided into the number of desired planks in tick marks. To prove this to yourself measure the distance as you are currently doing on a curved section of the hull then compare with the tick strip method as described. You'll see that your measurement is shorter than the tick strip and thus your planks may be narrower than they should be.
  2. Very nice Kevin! Your planking skills are improving with each video. When you measure the distance between planks to establish plank thicknesses it might be better to use tick strips. The digital caliper does not take into account the curve of the hull and will read shorter than the actual distance.
  3. Welcome to the bollard scrap pile club Ron! Nobody (except perhaps Druxey) nails them the first time. I cut the air spaces on my Byrnes table saw after the hawse and bollard timbers were "spot-welded" to each other with a few pinpoint dabs of yellow glue. The air spaces were then marked in pencil and the timbers separated. Then the Byrnes saw blade was raised 1/2" (scale) and the recess cut freehand.
  4. I too enjoyed working with square stock although of brass, which needed to be annealed before working. I assume the copper is soft enough not to require annealing?
  5. If your name is not Arnold or Henry K. then your chances of purchasing this model are slim!
  6. Beautiful launch Keith! On another topic my bedroom set is of a similarly stained dark wood and it shows every spec of dust. Have you had this issue with your model?
  7. We see numerous examples of superb wood and metal craftsmanship on this site but rigging excellence such as this is not as common. Your work is truly an inspiration for my current rigging project.
  8. Might not the figure be supported with two small resin pegs under his feet so he can stand without a stand? Or can the feet be cleanly removed from the base without damaging the figure? Nice work!
  9. Very skillful repair and a great stopping place for your vacation.
  10. Looks perfect now, like the rest of your work. I should point out the the illustration was created by David Antscherl as part of The Fully Framed Swan series of books.
  11. I remember taking that cliff walk Chuck. Pretty awesome views. I then retired to my yacht and sailed off to Cannes. Chapter Eleven is amazing! Your chain link, molded channel edge and swivel gun solutions are very innovative. A simple solution I found to deal with the entry way step edges is to cut the molding at the appropriate 45 degree angle. The cut off pieces will have the same angle and they are glued to the step to create a perfect molded edge. Easier than filing. Enjoy the rest of your vacation with, and hiding from, your family.
  12. Great and timely discussion for me as well! What I found confusing is that the illustration in Lees for cable laid is "inboard" but it isn't labeled "port, inboard". So this is how I'm rigging Speedwell with the above advice and Druxey's valuable assistance Shrouds turned under deadeyes from right to left then, of course crossed over left to right above the deadeye. Thus, as mentioned above, the starboard shroud end is fore of the shroud and the port shroud end is aft of the shroud. Don't forget the lanyard changes as well. On the port side the end knot is most fore deadeye hole and on the starboard it starts of the most aft deadeye hole (in other words opposite the shroud ends). I almost forgot that one. Have I got it right? I have been looking at lots of contemporary models and have seen every variation of the above so maybe they weren't as obsessed with these minute details as we are!
  13. Can you site a source for this statement? Lee's makes no mention of this and photos of contemporary models I am looking at show the end of the rope on the aft side port and starboard.
  14. Nice work, Ron. After a few POF models I changed my sequence when assembling frames. I now glue the butt joints of the futtocks together over the pattern, allow to dry then fit the chock by using the assembled frame as a template. A slightly off chock can affect the final shape of the frame so fitting the chock to it's opening insures this doesn't happen.
  15. They've changed the lobby since my last visit before the pandemic. Now you access the Age of Sail in the right rear of the main floor where the elevator and steps are. I was able to get there in the 3D tour. As far as the basement where Grant's office, the library and all the good stuff happens there used to be a bookstore and window into the ship model repair shop but I don't know if that's still available to the general public. Grant once gave me a private tour of the top floor where many models were stored.
  16. Same experience as Kurt. What would have been trashed is now a great second saw for my workshop,
  17. I have just started rigging my model and I am certain that seizing is much more difficult on a model than in real life. What is working for me is using a small pinpoint of CA to secure the first seizing wrap (away from the throat). Then the seizing is wetted, wrapped around the rope towards the throat several times under tension, passed through the throat then wrapped twice between the lines. A small blob of white glue is placed around the seizing and allowed to dry. After it dries the edges are trimmed. Still working on splicing served line but at least I have the seizing down. I'll post some photos in a day or so as it is much easier to do than describe.
  18. So how do you thin your shellac? with 95% alcohol and, if so, at what dilution?
  19. Good decision to raise it's location Chuck. I'm betting the Master carvers had the same reticence to pierce the original carving in that location as well!
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