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Everything posted by dvm27
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Beautiful launch Keith! On another topic my bedroom set is of a similarly stained dark wood and it shows every spec of dust. Have you had this issue with your model?
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Might not the figure be supported with two small resin pegs under his feet so he can stand without a stand? Or can the feet be cleanly removed from the base without damaging the figure? Nice work!
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- Indefatigable
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks perfect now, like the rest of your work. I should point out the the illustration was created by David Antscherl as part of The Fully Framed Swan series of books. -
I remember taking that cliff walk Chuck. Pretty awesome views. I then retired to my yacht and sailed off to Cannes. Chapter Eleven is amazing! Your chain link, molded channel edge and swivel gun solutions are very innovative. A simple solution I found to deal with the entry way step edges is to cut the molding at the appropriate 45 degree angle. The cut off pieces will have the same angle and they are glued to the step to create a perfect molded edge. Easier than filing. Enjoy the rest of your vacation with, and hiding from, your family.
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Great and timely discussion for me as well! What I found confusing is that the illustration in Lees for cable laid is "inboard" but it isn't labeled "port, inboard". So this is how I'm rigging Speedwell with the above advice and Druxey's valuable assistance Shrouds turned under deadeyes from right to left then, of course crossed over left to right above the deadeye. Thus, as mentioned above, the starboard shroud end is fore of the shroud and the port shroud end is aft of the shroud. Don't forget the lanyard changes as well. On the port side the end knot is most fore deadeye hole and on the starboard it starts of the most aft deadeye hole (in other words opposite the shroud ends). I almost forgot that one. Have I got it right? I have been looking at lots of contemporary models and have seen every variation of the above so maybe they weren't as obsessed with these minute details as we are!
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Can you site a source for this statement? Lee's makes no mention of this and photos of contemporary models I am looking at show the end of the rope on the aft side port and starboard.
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I'm betting that that was not in your carry on bag!
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
dvm27 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Nice work, Ron. After a few POF models I changed my sequence when assembling frames. I now glue the butt joints of the futtocks together over the pattern, allow to dry then fit the chock by using the assembled frame as a template. A slightly off chock can affect the final shape of the frame so fitting the chock to it's opening insures this doesn't happen.- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
- Plank-on-frame
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They've changed the lobby since my last visit before the pandemic. Now you access the Age of Sail in the right rear of the main floor where the elevator and steps are. I was able to get there in the 3D tour. As far as the basement where Grant's office, the library and all the good stuff happens there used to be a bookstore and window into the ship model repair shop but I don't know if that's still available to the general public. Grant once gave me a private tour of the top floor where many models were stored.
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Replacement motor for Preac saw
dvm27 replied to Kevin Kenny's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Same experience as Kurt. What would have been trashed is now a great second saw for my workshop, -
Seizings - what am I doing wrong?
dvm27 replied to David Lester's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have just started rigging my model and I am certain that seizing is much more difficult on a model than in real life. What is working for me is using a small pinpoint of CA to secure the first seizing wrap (away from the throat). Then the seizing is wetted, wrapped around the rope towards the throat several times under tension, passed through the throat then wrapped twice between the lines. A small blob of white glue is placed around the seizing and allowed to dry. After it dries the edges are trimmed. Still working on splicing served line but at least I have the seizing down. I'll post some photos in a day or so as it is much easier to do than describe. -
Roughly the equivalent of tying the last ratline Mike. Looks terrific!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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So how do you thin your shellac? with 95% alcohol and, if so, at what dilution?
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Good decision to raise it's location Chuck. I'm betting the Master carvers had the same reticence to pierce the original carving in that location as well!
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- winchelsea
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Sweet work, Chuck. They're like the perfect carpet that ties the room together.
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Glenn, your Winchelsea is coming along beautifully! Ship modelling excellence is not something I was born with. It has been a long and trying journey with many scrap pieces along the way. You just need to decide whether you wish to build many good models or a few amazing models in your lifetime. If you're satisfied with the former that it's much easier. If you're a perfectionist it's all about the journey and making sure every piece is a perfect fit. The first time you decide to install a piece that is not quite perfect you've crossed a threshold that could easily become the norm. So lot's of remakes and ungluing along this path but ultimately the one I find most satisfying.
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HH wrote "As a near-sighted person for most of my life, I am adjusting to the mid-life reality of constantly removing my glasses for close work, while simultaneously resisting the pressing need for bi-focals/transition lenses. This is the status of my mid-life crisis." Ha! I use bifocals and 5x Optivisors for my modeling. Wait till your midlife crisis advances to senior crisis...
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Echo by tlevine - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Fantastic cross section Toni! Love the coppered bottom.- 52 replies
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