dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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The only thing more tedious than setting up the deadeyes and chains is ratting down but perhaps you're not rigging her. -
Pretty simple on the Sherline lathe. I just used the zero adjustable hand wheel. It was set to zero once the leg diameter of 0.020" was verified by caliper then backed off by 0.020" for the shaped top portion of the pin.
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Not too much progress to note on Speedwell but the standing rigging has commenced. A photo of her in her current state is shown below. She needs twenty belaying pins. For the most part I find commercial belaying pins clunky and like to make them myself. I have seen several different techniques but they did not work particularly well in my hands so, if you have a lathe, maybe try this technique. I discovered early in my machining, self-taught trials that in order to turn a very small diameter like the 0.020" leg of the belaying pin you have to turn against a much thicker stock or deflection occurs. In the first photo the 0.020" diameter is turned from 0.25" boxwood. The speed is high and the feed is very slow and consistent to avoid warping and deflection. The cutting tool backed off 0.020" to form the diameter of the head of the pin. The next step was impossible to photograph but a very fine Swiss file was used to reduce the area just above the transition. The rest of the head was shaped with a fine Swiss file. The finished belaying pin was parted with the knife edge of the file while shaping it's curved profile. Many extras were made to insure consistency. You can see the delicate elongated shape of the pins against the illustration by David Antscherl in our Speedwell book. The key takeaway for new home machinists is that you can turn very small diameters even in wood if you turn against a thicker stock. I can't say for sure exactly how thick but I should think at least four times the desired finished diameter.
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This little gem was recently sold by Sotheby's. Unfortunately, my bid came in at just slightly under the auction realization of 5,500,000 pounds. But, there is an amazing book on the Van de Veldes for the rest of us losers.
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The hull is shaping up nicely Kevin. On your next model (should you ever wish to plank again!) you'll learn how to install stealers and drop strakes to control the width of those planks at the bow and the stern.
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Nice job on the pump fittings. They were very fussy even with photoetched parts! Louvers look great as well.
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With all due respect I believe that natural rope does have a bit of a catenary or sag to it which I find quite natural and graceful. It is one of the lovely features of the Navy Board models and is quite difficult to emulate on a model.
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
dvm27 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I'll bet mine is a lot bigger than yours!- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
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Very clever Marsalv. I like the short dowel you've placed in the tailstock to keep them from flying off. There's no short cut for hollowing out the deadeye holes though!
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
dvm27 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
As long as you are only removing a section of the surface face it is more accurate than hand filing for sure.- 122 replies
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Take a small strip of paper and abut it to the bottom plank or planking line. Then make sure the paper is lying on the frame and mark where the top plank crosses. This is the true distance between the frames. This tick strip can now be divided into the number of desired planks in tick marks. To prove this to yourself measure the distance as you are currently doing on a curved section of the hull then compare with the tick strip method as described. You'll see that your measurement is shorter than the tick strip and thus your planks may be narrower than they should be.
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Very nice Kevin! Your planking skills are improving with each video. When you measure the distance between planks to establish plank thicknesses it might be better to use tick strips. The digital caliper does not take into account the curve of the hull and will read shorter than the actual distance.
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
dvm27 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Welcome to the bollard scrap pile club Ron! Nobody (except perhaps Druxey) nails them the first time. I cut the air spaces on my Byrnes table saw after the hawse and bollard timbers were "spot-welded" to each other with a few pinpoint dabs of yellow glue. The air spaces were then marked in pencil and the timbers separated. Then the Byrnes saw blade was raised 1/2" (scale) and the recess cut freehand.- 122 replies
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I too enjoyed working with square stock although of brass, which needed to be annealed before working. I assume the copper is soft enough not to require annealing?
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If your name is not Arnold or Henry K. then your chances of purchasing this model are slim!
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Beautiful launch Keith! On another topic my bedroom set is of a similarly stained dark wood and it shows every spec of dust. Have you had this issue with your model?
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We see numerous examples of superb wood and metal craftsmanship on this site but rigging excellence such as this is not as common. Your work is truly an inspiration for my current rigging project.
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Might not the figure be supported with two small resin pegs under his feet so he can stand without a stand? Or can the feet be cleanly removed from the base without damaging the figure? Nice work!
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Very skillful repair and a great stopping place for your vacation.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks perfect now, like the rest of your work. I should point out the the illustration was created by David Antscherl as part of The Fully Framed Swan series of books. -
I remember taking that cliff walk Chuck. Pretty awesome views. I then retired to my yacht and sailed off to Cannes. Chapter Eleven is amazing! Your chain link, molded channel edge and swivel gun solutions are very innovative. A simple solution I found to deal with the entry way step edges is to cut the molding at the appropriate 45 degree angle. The cut off pieces will have the same angle and they are glued to the step to create a perfect molded edge. Easier than filing. Enjoy the rest of your vacation with, and hiding from, your family.
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Great and timely discussion for me as well! What I found confusing is that the illustration in Lees for cable laid is "inboard" but it isn't labeled "port, inboard". So this is how I'm rigging Speedwell with the above advice and Druxey's valuable assistance Shrouds turned under deadeyes from right to left then, of course crossed over left to right above the deadeye. Thus, as mentioned above, the starboard shroud end is fore of the shroud and the port shroud end is aft of the shroud. Don't forget the lanyard changes as well. On the port side the end knot is most fore deadeye hole and on the starboard it starts of the most aft deadeye hole (in other words opposite the shroud ends). I almost forgot that one. Have I got it right? I have been looking at lots of contemporary models and have seen every variation of the above so maybe they weren't as obsessed with these minute details as we are!
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Can you site a source for this statement? Lee's makes no mention of this and photos of contemporary models I am looking at show the end of the rope on the aft side port and starboard.
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