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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    I have done the same Bitao. It will take you less time to reach the same point in the project and you will be happier with the results.
  2. dvm27
    If you have cut your fames to the bevel lines before installing them you will have stepping both inside and outside the frames across the hull (depending on the curvature). Apply pencil marks over the inside and outside surfaces of the frames. Start with 80 grit paper, then progressive grits until the pencil lines disappear. Your hull should then be fair. Obviously check the thickness to insure you are on spec.
  3. dvm27
    Just be careful not to over-bevel! If you cross over the bevel line the frames fore and aft of it will also be affected. Personally, I do no beveling until all the frames are installed. If you choose to pre-bevel then perhaps stay 1/16th inch shy of the bevel marks to allow for the inevitable errors that arise when gluing the frames in place.
  4. dvm27
    Beautiful work! For some reason I had a lot of trouble with the foremost full frame (L fore) faying in perfectly with the aft most fore cant 12. I had to remake it several times. I might suggest you temporarily affix the fore cant 12 (two small pinpoints of white glue can easily be dissolved with alcohol later) then seeing how the frame L fore fits on your model.
  5. dvm27
    Nice job Kevin! Do you have the sensitive drilling attachment for the Sherline Mill? It makes drilling small holes in brass a snap.
  6. dvm27
    Your model belongs in a nautical museum Bitao. Or imagine her displayed next to the actual Cutty Sark. We hope you'll continue posting you build logs here!
  7. dvm27
    That is a jack which is used to elevate the blade. It s placed under one of the four bolts of the motor arbor and the knob turned to either elevate or lower the blade. My Preacs don't have the aluminum casing or maybe I removed it at some point to more easily adjust the blade height. If necessary there is a excellent motor replacement available for this saw which is more powerful and an easy retrofit http://shipahoymodels.com/equipmentforsale.htm.
  8. dvm27
    If you don't screw up at least one of those mortises over the course of framing the hull...I'm going to hate you. Getting a fair line was the most challenging part of the build for me.
  9. dvm27
    And one wonders how you will display these ten little gems so as not to obscure all the minute details you've painstakingly included.
  10. dvm27
    Just make ten more for the rest of us.
  11. dvm27
    Yes, I would leave those frames a bit full until final fairing. One low spot during fairing results in several frames being affected.
  12. dvm27
    Had a great experience with Joe's modelers Sawmill as well, Glenn. Great service!
  13. dvm27
    You should mount her...in my study!
  14. dvm27
    Nice job Kevin. You can even out the blackened finish by polishing with a soft lint free cloth or using a buffing wheel at low speed in a rotary tool.
  15. dvm27
    I think I have just about the right amount of faith in you...after seeing you walk on water!
  16. dvm27
    Still adrift in foreign waters, Alan. I am hoping the US-Canadian border will open this summer so I can return her to her home port and rig her.
  17. dvm27
    We are honored that you have chosen to display your work here Bitao. May I ask what your next ship model project will be?
  18. dvm27
    Using tenon joinery for the wing transoms, fashion and filling pieces adds an insane level of difficulty to the build but makes it all the more impressive. I'm really enjoying viewing this build!
  19. dvm27
    Well it's about damn time, Michael. Your updates have been sorely missed!
  20. dvm27
    Thanks for helping him with this Chuck. Hopefully those of us who miss the Hobby Mill and his successor will have a great new source. Has he mentioned if he will be carrying holly as well? hard to find clear, white holly these days.
  21. dvm27
    With a tabled scarph joint you've already jumped to the head of the pack! This is a great scale to include every detail and I look forward to your build.
  22. dvm27
    Absolutely beautiful headwork, Alex. I forgot...are you going to rig her?
  23. dvm27
    Well I could have fabricated a foot powered lathe like they had in the 18th century but it seemed like a lot of work for ten seconds of power. Besides, isn't the "laser" the ultimate power tool?
  24. dvm27
    I spent a fun couple of days building Syren Ship Model Company's Winchelsea capstan. Having preciously built one for my Swan class model many years ago which took me a couple of weeks to do on the mill and lathe I was curious to see how Chuck's version compared. As expected it is amazingly good. Chuck has mastered the laser cutter and has figured out how to incorporate every detail of the real version, including the rings which are made of fiberboard and include all the perfectly spaced holes. My build sequence was slightly different as I wanted to paint mine red. If this wish to do this I suggest you use Tamiya tape to mask the "iron" bands between the capstans before painting. As well I found that placing the capstan drum assemblies in a slow speed rotary tool and turning for a couple of seconds on 320 grit sandpaper completely removed the char. Attached are a couple of photos. I need to de-dust the capstan and apply a coat of flat varnish but that's it. It'll end up in one of my cross-section cases. Even if you've never scratch built a fitting I'd recommend you give this a try. It's almost fail-proof and priced very reasonably for the quality of the wood and laser cutting.
  25. dvm27
    Greg Herbert's chain pumps are jealous of these! Those laser simulated nail heads are phenomenal. Since you've included the rhodings perhaps the tongue, also in black, would be the icing on the cake.

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