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Everything posted by dvm27
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Nice job Kevin. You can even out the blackened finish by polishing with a soft lint free cloth or using a buffing wheel at low speed in a rotary tool.
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I think I have just about the right amount of faith in you...after seeing you walk on water!
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Still adrift in foreign waters, Alan. I am hoping the US-Canadian border will open this summer so I can return her to her home port and rig her.
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
We are honored that you have chosen to display your work here Bitao. May I ask what your next ship model project will be?- 257 replies
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I spent a fun couple of days building Syren Ship Model Company's Winchelsea capstan. Having preciously built one for my Swan class model many years ago which took me a couple of weeks to do on the mill and lathe I was curious to see how Chuck's version compared. As expected it is amazingly good. Chuck has mastered the laser cutter and has figured out how to incorporate every detail of the real version, including the rings which are made of fiberboard and include all the perfectly spaced holes. My build sequence was slightly different as I wanted to paint mine red. If this wish to do this I suggest you use Tamiya tape to mask the "iron" bands between the capstans before painting. As well I found that placing the capstan drum assemblies in a slow speed rotary tool and turning for a couple of seconds on 320 grit sandpaper completely removed the char. Attached are a couple of photos. I need to de-dust the capstan and apply a coat of flat varnish but that's it. It'll end up in one of my cross-section cases. Even if you've never scratch built a fitting I'd recommend you give this a try. It's almost fail-proof and priced very reasonably for the quality of the wood and laser cutting.
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Greg Herbert's chain pumps are jealous of these! Those laser simulated nail heads are phenomenal. Since you've included the rhodings perhaps the tongue, also in black, would be the icing on the cake.
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Rather than corrupt Chucks Winchelsia folder I am adding a new one for photos of ships crew members. I commissioned the ones below several years ago and am in contact with the artist to see if he would be open to creating a bunch for us. He casts them then hand paints them. I have a couple of them on each of my models and I believe they enhance the appearance, especially for non-modelers. Keep in mind these are 1:48 scale and extremely hi-resolution photos. Actual figures are only 1.5" or so. I encourage others to post photos of high quality crew members here as well.
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I have contacted the person who has designed and hand painted several figures for my models in the past and they are of the highest quality. If he is interested in producing a limited run of naval figures (generally a lieutenant and a couple of sailors in different poses) I would be happy to facilitate it. But figures of this quality are not cheap. If interested please send me an e-mail at dvm27@comcast.net. Please do not post requests here!
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Agree with Druxey about the muzzle flare. You should spend some time experimenting with finishing brass. It's very easy to remove scratches with progressively fine emery cloth or files then steel wool.
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Very nice work, Kevin!. Hope that package reaches you soon. Just a couple of observations: Always remove the tightening bars from the mill or lathe as soon as the jaws are locked. I speak from experience! When drilling brass, especially a convex surface, use a center drill to start the hole. It will not deflect like a drill bit or even a burr. Probably easier to make those trucks by inserting the blank into the headstock. Let it protrude only an inch or so. Drill the truck holes from the tailstock then part off the truck. Keep feeding additional stock from the headstock and continue the process. It's probably not a great idea to part between centers, especially with metal. Finally a tip to turn very small diameter wooden parts (like belaying pins). Start with a wide diameter (3-4 times the finished diameter). Let no more than an inch of stock protrude from the headstock. In one pass cut to the final diameter. There will be no deflection when done this way. if you try to reduce the diameter in several passes it will deflect before you get to the desired size. Look forward to your casting video!
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There's a great link on their site to a series of videos on the renovation of La Musee de la Marine. Some fabulous scenes of the models and the Napoleonic barge. This was one of my favorite maritime museums in the world and I fear many of the models will not be included when the Museum reopens. Perhaps Welfalck would know better.
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I suspect many members of this group would have difficulty fielding four human hairs, Alan! As for me I had no doubt that Druxey would be able to recover. When he said "this will take a little time to repair" I'll bet many were thinking days. Of course it turned out to be only a few hours in Druxey time.
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Frieze painting techniques
dvm27 replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I like your version better Chuck. The POF side may be more technically challenging but is not as aesthetically pleasing to the eye as your interpretation. -
YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
That curved transom plank could not have been easy! It bends in so many different planes. Seems it would be difficult to edge set. Was it spiled?- 257 replies
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Not so much sharp eyes as been there before. Cutting the rudder hole opening and filing it out to the correct size with all the angles involved is nerve wracking. I too took the "close enough" approach on my Swan class model.
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Pear really is a beautiful wood, Rusty. It was used in contemporary ship models a lot more than we think about. Just curious about the size of the rudder opening. Seems a bit small (in the photo view). If your rudder were functional would you be able to swing it to it's proper angle?
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