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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Rather than corrupt Chucks Winchelsia folder I am adding a new one for photos of ships crew members. I commissioned the ones below several years ago and am in contact with the artist to see if he would be open to creating a bunch for us. He casts them then hand paints them. I have a couple of them on each of my models and I believe they enhance the appearance, especially for non-modelers. Keep in mind these are 1:48 scale and extremely hi-resolution photos. Actual figures are only 1.5" or so. I encourage others to post photos of high quality crew members here as well.
  2. dvm27
    I have contacted the person who has designed and hand painted several figures for my models in the past and they are of the highest quality. If he is interested in producing a limited run of naval figures (generally a lieutenant and a couple of sailors in different poses) I would be happy to facilitate it. But figures of this quality are not cheap. If interested please send me an e-mail at dvm27@comcast.net. Please do not post requests here!
  3. dvm27
    Agree with Druxey about the muzzle flare. You should spend some time experimenting with finishing brass. It's very easy to remove scratches with progressively fine emery cloth or files then steel wool.
  4. dvm27
    Very nice work, Kevin!. Hope that package reaches you soon. Just a couple of observations: Always remove the tightening bars from the mill or lathe as soon as the jaws are locked. I speak from experience! When drilling brass, especially a convex surface, use a center drill to start the hole. It will not deflect like a drill bit or even a burr. Probably easier to make those trucks by inserting the blank into the headstock. Let it protrude only an inch or so. Drill the truck holes from the tailstock then part off the truck. Keep feeding additional stock from the headstock and continue the process. It's probably not a great idea to part between centers, especially with metal. Finally a tip to turn very small diameter wooden parts (like belaying pins). Start with a wide diameter (3-4 times the finished diameter). Let no more than an inch of stock protrude from the headstock. In one pass cut to the final diameter. There will be no deflection when done this way. if you try to reduce the diameter in several passes it will deflect before you get to the desired size. Look forward to your casting video!
  5. dvm27
    There's a great link on their site to a series of videos on the renovation of La Musee de la Marine. Some fabulous scenes of the models and the Napoleonic barge. This was one of my favorite maritime museums in the world and I fear many of the models will not be included when the Museum reopens. Perhaps Welfalck would know better.
  6. dvm27
    I suspect many members of this group would have difficulty fielding four human hairs, Alan! As for me I had no doubt that Druxey would be able to recover. When he said "this will take a little time to repair" I'll bet many were thinking days. Of course it turned out to be only a few hours in Druxey time.
  7. dvm27
    I like your version better Chuck. The POF side may be more technically challenging but is not as aesthetically pleasing to the eye as your interpretation.
  8. dvm27
    That curved transom plank could not have been easy! It bends in so many different planes. Seems it would be difficult to edge set. Was it spiled?
  9. dvm27
    Not so much sharp eyes as been there before. Cutting the rudder hole opening and filing it out to the correct size with all the angles involved is nerve wracking. I too took the "close enough" approach on my Swan class model.
  10. dvm27
    Pear really is a beautiful wood, Rusty. It was used in contemporary ship models a lot more than we think about. Just curious about the size of the rudder opening. Seems a bit small (in the photo view). If your rudder were functional would you be able to swing it to it's proper angle?
  11. dvm27
    In addition to what Druxey has said always gently try to pry apart a joint. Start at an edge and insert the side of a hobby knife. Once you see some daylight you can add some more isopropyl, wait a few minutes then gently pry apart.
  12. dvm27
    Well some old time modelers did it that way but this model of Minerve shows the builder took the easier path.
  13. dvm27
    As Druxey has pointed you you have definitely gone the more difficult route in making those fenders. Cutting the negative shape of the moldings into the fenders is extremely challenging. Excellent work! I wonder which method was used during actual construction of the ship?
  14. dvm27
    Regrettably, the only remaining hobby shop I have access to is the chain Hobby Lobby and they carry few, if any, wooden ship models. It would appear that RC models are the present and future. Gone are the halcyon days of my youth where I could peruse hundreds of ship model fittings in my local hobby store then later Bliss Marine. If we don't support internet ship model shops then they'll be next to disappear.
  15. dvm27
    Very nice woodworking, Don. I'm a bit concerned about the first two frames of the forebody in post #24. It doesn't look as if the heel of the frames is seating anywhere near the rabbet. Or is that an optical illusion. Will there be sufficient wood to fair them into the frames adjacent to them?
  16. dvm27
    Perfection, Druxey. Is there a point during the planking process where you'd feel comfortable lifting the boat off the mold?
  17. dvm27
    The carving reminds me of the amazing boxwood carvings in the Art Gallery of Ontario. Check out this fabulous article by the museum and click on chapters to see some amazing carvings (especially the Prayer nuts in chapters 4-6)! http://boxwood.ago.ca/publication/small-wonders-late-gothic-boxwood-micro-carvings-low-countries
  18. dvm27
    I found the cutting of these mortises to be one of the more challenging aspects of the model Richard. I also made my sills slightly oversize and pared them back to better match the mortises after cutting. Trim, fit and repeat until satisfied. What I can tell you is that when you do your final fairing with a dab of white glue in any unwanted gaps they will disappear.
  19. dvm27
    Amazing work Jack. I'm used to seeing the scroll of the lower cheek tuck into the bottom of the foot. Is the small gap temporary or does it conform to the draft?
  20. dvm27
    Beautiful work Greg. Make sure you photograph the installation of the whiskey plank and we'll raise a glass together.
  21. dvm27
    Exquisite work, "No Idea"! You should change your screen name to "I Got This".
  22. dvm27
    Ditto to what Roger said. Can't say enough about the quality of Sherline mill and lathes, both which I have used for over a decade.
  23. dvm27
    Nice job on those stanchions, Chuck. Just curious if the contemporary model had wooden rails between them or if they were hemp? I like the later look.
  24. dvm27
    You're the art major Chuck but I think you gotta go with the red capstan to match everything else. The other just seems to fade into the background.
  25. dvm27
    Hard to comment on perfection, Chuck! Have you applied any finish to the panels? Any warpage following an application of finish?

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