dvm27

Well done Rusty, especially when you consider how many variables are involved by the time you get to this area of the ship. That you are so close to spec is a tribute to both your building skills and Chuck's excellent design.

I’m enjoying your excellent build of an interesting vessel! The rudder cockpit is a fine example of model making

Building the deck off the model requires that the hull symmetry is perfectly to spec. Not an easy job on a plank and frame model. Wonderful work, as always!

I'm going to try to emulate your ratline technique on my current model but I'm not sure I can pull it off - and I do surgery for a living! You continue to amaze Johann!

Nice set up on the mill! I suggest you mock up a rudder out of some cheap material. You'll quickly see what the final shape of the rudder opening needs to be to allow for the depth and swing of the rudder. It's very hard to visualize this from a plan as it usually is not a projected illustration.

Well, I wouldn't be too hard on yourself - your work is exceptional. I'd be willing to bet that the original ships did not end up exactly to spec as well.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery Kevin! Keep away from the sawdust for a few days.

Love that extendible brass jig to measure the width of the beams!

Where do you keep this impressive fleet? This is the kind of collection that museums would hope for.

One of the finest of ship model carvers, August Crabtree, used Whitethorn for his exquisite models. He tended to source local materials and did the majority of his work in the Pacific northwest. I wonder if this wood is available?

Absolutely beautiful, Gampiero. Looks like you created mortises for those horseshoe and dovetail plates as well! Could you place a ruler next to the hull in the next photos so we can get a better idea of her size. I've never seen one larger than 1:48 scale?

Nice job Stu. You might try using Titebond or carpenters glue mixed with black pigment powder. It doesn’t affect the bonding and leaves a nice clean line after sanding. As with all glue I always clean up with water and a small brush after clamping. Much easier to remove while wet.

This, of course, the reason we build navy board style. if you planked below the wales you'd be trunneling until next Christmas. Amazing progress this year Giampiero. Happy Holidays and we look forward to next years progress!

Best Holiday Wishes for you as well, Bitao, and thank you for sharing your exceptional work with us.! Greg

I've been a Tally Ho fan for years as well Kevin and very much enjoy seeing the traditional boat building techniques he uses. Enjoy your visit to New York, stay safe and a Healthy New Year to you! We look forward to your 2022 progress videos.

Fairing that all together is going to be some fun, Albert! Lovely work.

Nice job on those scupper holes Bug!

Great job on the wales! Personally I believe no one feature should jump out and announce its presence. To me, the shiny fastenings disrupt the flow of the wales. But it's your model so you should choose whatever is most aesthetically pleasing to your eye.

I turned them from Box wood and dyed them with Fiebings brow leather dye.

Here's a link to a great site that sells it. They also have free tutorials on silver soldering, pickling etc. https://beaducation.com/collections/soldering-fusing-tools

Correct, Maury. It just hooks over the deadeye binding.

I hope others take note that you have tenoned your transoms and filler pieces to fit to the fashion piece and last cant frame. Incredible!

Before starting on the rigging the straps for the deadeyes need to be made. These would be ideal for photoetching (see Siggi's latest postings) but I thought I'd make my own following the illustration by David Antscherl in Volume Two of Speedwell. Keep in mind straps varied in the number of links based on the size of the vessel and era modelled. Here is the illustration of Speedwell's deadeye straps: I used 24g brass straight wire from K&S. The first step was to form the toe loop. It was bent around a 0.33" drill bit using various shaped jewelers pliers. Once the toe loop was formed the strap was transferred to a honeycombed ceramic soldering plate with steel pins to hold them in the correct position for silver soldering. I use Euro Tools paste solder http:// Quote https://www.eurotool.com/search.asp?keyword=silver+solder+paste and it is a joy to use. I used to have a 25-50% failure rate with silver solder but this self fluxing paste is magic - not one failure in the 18 straps and it flows beautifully. I used the low temperature solder for this application. The strap was next cut to length The top was bent into a hook with the round pointed jewelers plyers. It's extremely difficult to photograph the next step but the hook was tapered on each side to fit into the binding loop of the deadeye. I did this on the Byrnes disk sander and used files to finish. Finally, the toe was bent to lie at the correct angle against the hull. All straps are now being pickled before blackening and installing on the hull. I can now start on Speedwell's rigging. I've only fully rigged two models before so this should be a fun learning experience for me. David has gone into great detail in Volume Two of Speedwell detailing every rope and fitting for rigging her so I have no excuse for not doing it correctly.

It's a treat for me to see the ship built at this scale. The stern geometry looks great!

Nice job Kevin! That was a challenging task.