dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Well, your sequencing may not always be ideal you are obviously very skilled in carpentry. Your framing looks superb! -
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
dvm27 replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Looks like someone didn't have a rotary table for the test piece. The holes are not equally spaced at 30 degrees. This where a lathe and mill spoil you as the spider band could easily be turned and reamed on the lathe then drilled in the mill. But certainly not cost effective for just one fitting.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Sweet work G. You're doing a great job keeping all those sweep and port sills in alignment. I thought of using brass pins to transfix the frames to the keel but with the keelson and temporary blocking they were amazingly rigid during fairing. As well if you plan on installing the fillers between the lower frames this creates additional rigidity.
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Looking forward to your take on this model in Navy Board fashion. The Marshall paintings are very inspirational!
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- Sphinx
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Portuguese Val Boat
dvm27 replied to michael mott's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Fascinating Michael. Not sure OSHA would approve of the heat bending method. Thanks for the link! -
Well your first POF model looks a far sight better than mine did! You appear to be a perfectionist and I know how hard it must be for you to leave a little extra but just keep in mind that a part of the building process of the real ships was fairing the hull. One frame slightly out of alignment can affect the symmetry of every adjacent frame. My personal preference has always been to fair the hull, especially the bow and stern, after all the frames are raised. Maybe a slight pre-bevel in the curviest sections but never to spec. Fairing a hull is quite fun (and satisfying) after all the frames are raised and supported by blocking. Just one opinion - others have achieved great results fully pre-beveling the frames but they are far more skilled than I.
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Wonderful work, Mark! I think most plank on frame builders raise their frames from fore and aft towards the center to help overcome cumulative error. However, your precise notching of the rising wood should prevent this. Really enjoying your build.
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We are all missing your updates, Michael, whatever the project. You’re in an elite league when it comes to model building. Here’s hoping you will get the medical attention you need soon.
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You can only cut so much with any blade. Surgical blades (such as a no.11) maybe sharper but are somewhat flimsier and designed for single use only. They're designed to cut tissue, not wood. I've had no trouble scoring and cutting thin strips of wood with x-acto blades and I do recall them selling a gold series which seemed to cut better. You might wish to check out the thread by Gaetan Bordeleau on knives though. A proper knife may be more suitable for your needs.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
No, Bitao. Those are the hawse and bollard timbers. Look at the photos below. In the first one the black arrow points towards the upper end of the knee of the head. It is where the figurehead sits and tapers to about 6" in width on the Naiad frigate. If you look carefully at Sheet 2 of Ed's plan you will see this taper. The taper also extends down to the lower part of the knee. Ed also discusses this on page 71 (volume 1) "Tapering the Knee of the Head". In the second photo the red arrow points at the standard ("gammoning knee") which sits atop the knee of the head. Note that it is narrower then the stem and knee of the head. Ed mentions it briefly in volume 2, page 272. It would difficult for most people to add this taper once the knee of the head is attached to the model but if you have already done so I believe your skillset will find a way to do this. Hope this has clarified things for you.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lovely remake Bitao. Just curious - is the knee of the head permanently affixed to the stem or just temporarily fitted? I'm asking because the knee of the head is usually tapered aft to fore and from the lower to the extreme upper tip. As well the standard usually narrower than the upper knee/stem junction. -
While I applaud the innovation in these POF "kits" there are just too many variables that are introduced including the quality of the laser cutting (or CNC), wood quality and a dozen other factors. A clinker style hull is especially challenging and unless the notched frames are perfectly cut and aligned the average builder is likely to become extremely frustrated with the results. It's been my experience that planking expansions are just a rough guide to the final shape of the plank which can only be determined once the hull is faired. So inexperienced (and experienced) builders should have some reservations about pre-cut planking and framing (unless for a less complex project such as the Syren Models barge)
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Great fix Kevin! Enjoy your holiday in T&T. You can go with a clear conscience now. Two observations: Part of the difficulty in building a fully framed model for the first time is that it is a learning process. We inevitably make mistakes early one due to inexperience with the techniques that come back to bite us later. Knowing how to fix them is part of the learning process. I believe your use of the heat gun on the aft frames does not bend them so much as to soften the glue. After removing the heat the glue resets in it's new position. Check the centerline again after your time away from the shop to make sure it is still to spec. If it has drifted slightly to starboard again you may need to place a truss rod as Druxey did in an inconspicuous location.
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That's a very fine and realistic looking coppering job Rob!
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That Greg guy sounds like a pain in the ****! He (I) made a similar error and had to massage my stern lights into the proper locations by filing the counter timbers later on. Not ideal! Your new plan is the way to go. Do not precut the mortises in the transom until it is fit. Then measure the distance between the outer counter timbers at their extreme upper inner tips as well as their distance across the wing transom. Compare to David's plan. If all is to spec then you can cut your mortises according to plan after establishing the centerline on the transom. If one or the other distance is off then you will have massage the transom mortises to insure that all recesses for the lights are symmetrical. Make sure tot use the Elevation of Counter Timbers (chapter 7.1) illustration as a reference for those distances. Stay the course Kevin. This is tough stuff!
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All of your planking has such sweet curves. Love your use of the thicker batten as a form for the moulding. Such a simple solution to the problem of wavy lines.
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Nice job Kevin. That’s a particularly difficult part of the model. Might be worthwhile to mock up the stern lights to make sure each of the spaces are symmetrical. I had an issue here that came back to bite me later. Treating for termites is not something most of us have to worry about!
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Wonderful work! Those contrasting chocks really show off your framing skills. Looks like your foremost full frame fays perfectly into the cants.
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What Glue is Best for Rigging Ropes?
dvm27 replied to Bill Jackson's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
What Jaeger said. I've been happy with the Lineco line of archival products for philately and will use their neutral pH white glue, diluted for rigging. -
Congratulations on the completion of this deck Kevin. Another milestone. The complexity of a build such as this guarantees errors will be made. But it's very complexity makes it difficult for the eye to focus on individual errors. The overall appearance is excellent!
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I think you're OK with placing the wale after finishing the framing. The deck margin planks are above the wale so there shouldn't interfere with each other. At least that's the way it is in my version of Hannah.
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Beautiful job so far Mike. This was my first scratch built model and it was a lot of fun. Actually my model is a model of Harold Hahn's version in the Washington Navy Yard. For me, the most difficult part of the build (as it was for Hahn as well) was the open bulwarks/margin deck planking arrangement. I found it easier to fit the margin planks before planking the outside of the hull. You're a long way from there but you'll need to give this some thought. As well, Hahn's rigging plans left much to be worked out, especially the falls of numerous lines. I spent hours in the museum copying his rigging. Hopefully, Randy's plans include rigging.
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You could always blacken the top. It's authentic and hides a lot of imperfections (I know from experience).
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