dvm27
-
Posts
2,386 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by dvm27
-
20 year Sherline mill user and agree with everything CPDDET says above. But there are several hobby options available so check out other suggestions that will be offered here as well. You'll need to do your research here and decide how into milling you want to get. For example Sherline has a new CNC comptroller that could produce incredible results if you understand programming but I just have the basic milling machine pre-CNC. Here's a link to Sherline https://www.sherline.com/
-
HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48
dvm27 replied to AdamA's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Exceptional joinery work Adam! -
Wow, Ben. Your deck paper pattern is an almost perfect fit to the as built model. Great work!
-
Lovely work, Doc! As nice as those notches look I wonder if you'll still find fitting those filler pieces into them a pain. I certainly did.
-
I think the way you've made them (off the ship) is much easier then trying to fit them successively inside the model. As you've undoubtably discovered these types of joints are relatively easy to make once you get the set-ups correct on the mill or the hand sequencing if using a chisel. Fantastic work, as always!
-
Congratulations on a terrific start to your scratch building endeavors! Looks like you've done an excellent job on those difficult apron and aft deadwood stepping lines and she's fairing up nicely inboard.
-
Sweet Alan! Are those delicate handles printed at the same time? They look incredibly fragile but scale-like.
-
Bent? Not possible mon ami. I wrote blended. Make your toptimber 3 aft 11 1/2" wide to start. There is a Power Point photo that should show you how to shape it.
-
Yes, I have drilled the treenails backwards and replaced the work. Actually, if you're using scale sized treenails they should be barely visible. I'm betting if the same "mistake" happened while building the ship they would have just let them be. The special case toptimbers are just made from thicker material. I then used my Byrnes thickness sander to reduce the cast toptimber to the correct thickness and blended it by hand to the lower futtock. My PowerPoint build may show how this was done. http://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Tips.html
-
Henry, I'm away from my primary sources for awhile but I think you need the clamps and beams for both lower and upper decks in place before you cut the bitt pins to final height. So many variables involved. Once the upper deck beam is temporarily fitted it is a simple matter to determine where the top of the bitt should fall.
-
Nice job Kevin. There is no shortcut for those pieces. It's just make pattern, test fit, adjust, test fit, ad infinitum.
-
Excellent work Giampiero. I'm sure the cartridges will be in the next photos 😜
-
Echo by tlevine - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking terrific, Toni. I seem to recall having trouble with my brake pumps landing inside the well and had to adjust their location. Do yours extend to the limber space or are they abbreviated? -
Great news, Johann. On the other hand (sorry) you can single handedly outrig the rest of us so get back to work with your good hand!
-
ancre Belle Poule 1765 by j.guydal
dvm27 replied to j.guydal's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Your brass work makes a very convincing substitute for the carvings. Bien fait! -
NRG VIRTUAL WORKSHOP - USING THE TABLE SAW
dvm27 replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Great workshop Kurt. I also suffered saw-finger once and I'm betting those of us it happened to will never let it happen again. A question regarding the Preac zero-inset with blue tape tip - I'm snow birding so don't have access to my saw but isn't the blade very close to the blade elevating screw? I may be wrong but perhaps this violates the 3" rule? -
Looks like you've got it down now Mark. One nice thing about those fussy breast hooks is that they hide any small gaps between the deck clamp and the frames in this notoriously difficult to fair area of the hull.
-
Looks like you had a bit of a mishap with your stern deadwood in the top photo? If so, the resultant work shows no evidence of this. Lovely work!
-
I certainly agree with Hakan. Those inset molded details on the bitts and cross pieces are fabulous. Do you use a small chisel, scraper or a combination of both?
-
Love the belfry with all it's molded detail Bob. Just curious - did you ever consider blackening it to match the rail and timberheads? Obviously that would hide some of the lovely detail work but the entire breastwork area might flow better.
-
Thanks, Shipman, for drawing attention to this lovely model. Congratulations to the builder for making a commercial kit into a unique diorama.
- 40 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- la tartane
- heller
- (and 1 more)
-
You are correct. The ports should be parallel athwartships. Using a sanding stick as you are doing is a great way to insure this is the case.
-
I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.
-
Such a pleasure to see your work in progress. While I included every detail in my Swan class build as well it is a sad fact that most of your current work will not be visible on the finished model, even with partially planked decks. If I had a do-over I would seriously consider adding LED lighting in some of these areas (such as the lanterns in the light room). I know nothing of these things but it seems very doable at your scale.
-
Great gratings Siggi. I learned long ago to make the gratings first to insure full borders on all sides. The coamings and head ledges can always be modified a bit to fit.
Our Emblem ®
