dvm27
-
Posts
2,370 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by dvm27
-
ancre Belle Poule 1765 by j.guydal
dvm27 replied to j.guydal's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Your brass work makes a very convincing substitute for the carvings. Bien fait! -
NRG VIRTUAL WORKSHOP - USING THE TABLE SAW
dvm27 replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Great workshop Kurt. I also suffered saw-finger once and I'm betting those of us it happened to will never let it happen again. A question regarding the Preac zero-inset with blue tape tip - I'm snow birding so don't have access to my saw but isn't the blade very close to the blade elevating screw? I may be wrong but perhaps this violates the 3" rule? -
Looks like you've got it down now Mark. One nice thing about those fussy breast hooks is that they hide any small gaps between the deck clamp and the frames in this notoriously difficult to fair area of the hull.
-
Looks like you had a bit of a mishap with your stern deadwood in the top photo? If so, the resultant work shows no evidence of this. Lovely work!
-
I certainly agree with Hakan. Those inset molded details on the bitts and cross pieces are fabulous. Do you use a small chisel, scraper or a combination of both?
-
Love the belfry with all it's molded detail Bob. Just curious - did you ever consider blackening it to match the rail and timberheads? Obviously that would hide some of the lovely detail work but the entire breastwork area might flow better.
-
Thanks, Shipman, for drawing attention to this lovely model. Congratulations to the builder for making a commercial kit into a unique diorama.
- 40 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- la tartane
- heller
- (and 1 more)
-
You are correct. The ports should be parallel athwartships. Using a sanding stick as you are doing is a great way to insure this is the case.
-
I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.
-
Such a pleasure to see your work in progress. While I included every detail in my Swan class build as well it is a sad fact that most of your current work will not be visible on the finished model, even with partially planked decks. If I had a do-over I would seriously consider adding LED lighting in some of these areas (such as the lanterns in the light room). I know nothing of these things but it seems very doable at your scale.
-
Great gratings Siggi. I learned long ago to make the gratings first to insure full borders on all sides. The coamings and head ledges can always be modified a bit to fit.
-
Well done Rusty, especially when you consider how many variables are involved by the time you get to this area of the ship. That you are so close to spec is a tribute to both your building skills and Chuck's excellent design.
- 642 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
I’m enjoying your excellent build of an interesting vessel! The rudder cockpit is a fine example of model making
-
Building the deck off the model requires that the hull symmetry is perfectly to spec. Not an easy job on a plank and frame model. Wonderful work, as always!
-
I'm going to try to emulate your ratline technique on my current model but I'm not sure I can pull it off - and I do surgery for a living! You continue to amaze Johann!
-
Nice set up on the mill! I suggest you mock up a rudder out of some cheap material. You'll quickly see what the final shape of the rudder opening needs to be to allow for the depth and swing of the rudder. It's very hard to visualize this from a plan as it usually is not a projected illustration.
-
Well, I wouldn't be too hard on yourself - your work is exceptional. I'd be willing to bet that the original ships did not end up exactly to spec as well.
-
Love that extendible brass jig to measure the width of the beams!
-
USS Delaware 1817 by threebs
dvm27 replied to threebs's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Where do you keep this impressive fleet? This is the kind of collection that museums would hope for. -
One of the finest of ship model carvers, August Crabtree, used Whitethorn for his exquisite models. He tended to source local materials and did the majority of his work in the Pacific northwest. I wonder if this wood is available?
-
Absolutely beautiful, Gampiero. Looks like you created mortises for those horseshoe and dovetail plates as well! Could you place a ruler next to the hull in the next photos so we can get a better idea of her size. I've never seen one larger than 1:48 scale?
-
Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice job Stu. You might try using Titebond or carpenters glue mixed with black pigment powder. It doesn’t affect the bonding and leaves a nice clean line after sanding. As with all glue I always clean up with water and a small brush after clamping. Much easier to remove while wet. -
This, of course, the reason we build navy board style. if you planked below the wales you'd be trunneling until next Christmas. Amazing progress this year Giampiero. Happy Holidays and we look forward to next years progress!
-
NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Best Holiday Wishes for you as well, Bitao, and thank you for sharing your exceptional work with us.! Greg
Our Emblem ®
