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dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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I knew you could do it Kevin! Few tips regarding your latest video: 1. Deflection is always a problem with small diameter parts. You get much less deflection using wider stock. Just turn the amount you need to the final diameter but leave the tailstock portion wide. 2. Always use a center drill. Sherline makes some very small center drills that are perfect for sheaves (0, 00). 3. While parting small drilled items insert a wire into the end. This way they won't fly off and leave you cursing when you can't find them. 4. There are some very fine Vallrobe Swiss files that taper almost to a point. They are perfect for forming the concave part of the sheave and deadeyes freehand while the lathe is running. -
I have good success using the widest blade (0.0625") I have for my Byrnes saw. The key is to leave the top overlong so both ends are always parallel and resting on the table surface. Otherwise, as Kurt said, you can introduce wobble. You can create rather long slots by nibbling away at the piece then running it through in one pass lengthwise to unify any missed sections.
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Even though the gaps would be imperceptible on the finished model you have set an excellent precedent for future work. if you neglect a small detail that's not to your liking now it becomes easier to ignore the next one...and the one after that. I think you'll be very pleased with this model, no matter how long it takes.
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Depending on the location of the high spot you could spot glue a strip of 120 grit sandpaper to the rising wood and deadwood. Gently rub the underside of the keelson over its position until the gap disappears. Just a few passes, reassess, then a few passes until you creep up on it. This worked well for me. But in all honestly this gap will be invisible in the finished model.
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I found it convenient to temporarily glue the drum pieces together, turn to the final diameter, unglue them then mill the slots for the capstan bars half way on each piece using the mill rotary table. They were then reglued forming the fully thicknessed capstan bar mortises. I thought this would be easier than drilling evenly spaced holes and turning them into squares. But I'm sure you'll figure create the same effect.
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HMS EURYALUS by Matiz - FINISHED - scale 1:56
dvm27 replied to matiz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Cutting those sill mortises perfectly is no easy task Matiz. As usual your work is perfection. I like your little mini-clamp which you are using to prevent the frames from shifting while working on the sill mortises. -
That's the way I do it. I mill off two of the surfaces of the nut to fit into keelson slots to receive them. They are epoxied in place. If you could add an additional bolt fore and aft of the original two that would be sufficient to secure the hull whatever display you choose.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Due to illustration reproduction problems we have had over the years I would always go with the stated dimensions. -
Good result Kevin. Persistence pays off! When milling it is best to have small pieces like the bitts sitting on a base of the same diameter which extends to the bottom of the mill vice. This base serves as a positive stop so that each face can be rotated without worrying about aligning with the top jaw of the mill vice. In addition, when milling small pieces of wood the tightening of the vice will frequently squeeze the bottom of the vice slightly narrower that at the level of the top of the jaws. This can loosen the grip and cause milling errors. Below is a quick mock up of what I have described.
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Looking great Clay. Just curious as to how you plan to add the keelson with those bolts secured on top of the floors? As well I found that I needed four bolts (two pairs) to adequately secure the model once all the other elements were added. It gets surprisingly heavy.
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Thanks for the book recommendation, Druxey. I am very much enjoying the read on my Kindle. Of interest to this forum will be the fact that Moore's first command was aboard the Bonetta, a 14 gun Swan class sloop of war. It was launched in 1779 and broken up in 1792. She's not one of the Swan class I've seen modeled though as no plans of her exist.
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Brian - the pumps were fixed but the pump dales were removable and stowed elsewhere when not in use. Typically there would be a scupper where they discharge from the hull. They are rather unattractive wooden boxes so are seldom modelled along with the more elegant pumps but here is an example from my Echo cross-section.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Your work puts a smile on my face. I would love to see detailed photos of every step in the machining process. A YouTube video would be ideal but I'm sure very time consuming. -
Not only do those blackened caps look nice they also help hide the very difficult to perfect joint with the scrolls/hancing pieces. Of course Chuck's joinery is perfect but difficult for the rest of us!
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- winchelsea
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Lovely job of fairing the hull. As you said, you can feel when it's fair and it's a real knuckle buster! And yes, leaving those spacers just a little wide create way too much extra work. You may wish to rethink the steel/bronze wool finish. I think 240 grit or so looks great. The steel wool creates an almost unnatural polish to the wood but maybe try it on some scrap to see what you think.
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Get a couple of paint mixing sticks from Your local paint store. I usually cut them to about 6” lengths. Cut some sandpaper strips of different grits #80 to 240. Use white glue or 3m adhesive to join them. Trim excess off the edges with a blade. Make sure to label them with a Sharpie. FA was my first kit bashed model. Do you have the monograph by Clayton Feldman?
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Your meticulous attention to detail has resulted in a beautiful model Ryland! I’m sure your kids will fight over who gets it.
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My method of fairing is to apply pencil marks to the edges of the bulkheads and use flexible sanding sticks across them until the pencil marks disappear. The low spots will retain pencil marks so keep reapplying lead until all the marks are gone. I start with 80 grit and work up to 150 for planking.
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Well, your sequencing may not always be ideal you are obviously very skilled in carpentry. Your framing looks superb!
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
dvm27 replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Looks like someone didn't have a rotary table for the test piece. The holes are not equally spaced at 30 degrees. This where a lathe and mill spoil you as the spider band could easily be turned and reamed on the lathe then drilled in the mill. But certainly not cost effective for just one fitting.- 993 replies
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Sweet work G. You're doing a great job keeping all those sweep and port sills in alignment. I thought of using brass pins to transfix the frames to the keel but with the keelson and temporary blocking they were amazingly rigid during fairing. As well if you plan on installing the fillers between the lower frames this creates additional rigidity.
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Looking forward to your take on this model in Navy Board fashion. The Marshall paintings are very inspirational!
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Portuguese Val Boat
dvm27 replied to michael mott's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Fascinating Michael. Not sure OSHA would approve of the heat bending method. Thanks for the link! -
Well your first POF model looks a far sight better than mine did! You appear to be a perfectionist and I know how hard it must be for you to leave a little extra but just keep in mind that a part of the building process of the real ships was fairing the hull. One frame slightly out of alignment can affect the symmetry of every adjacent frame. My personal preference has always been to fair the hull, especially the bow and stern, after all the frames are raised. Maybe a slight pre-bevel in the curviest sections but never to spec. Fairing a hull is quite fun (and satisfying) after all the frames are raised and supported by blocking. Just one opinion - others have achieved great results fully pre-beveling the frames but they are far more skilled than I.
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