dvm27
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lovely remake Bitao. Just curious - is the knee of the head permanently affixed to the stem or just temporarily fitted? I'm asking because the knee of the head is usually tapered aft to fore and from the lower to the extreme upper tip. As well the standard usually narrower than the upper knee/stem junction. -
While I applaud the innovation in these POF "kits" there are just too many variables that are introduced including the quality of the laser cutting (or CNC), wood quality and a dozen other factors. A clinker style hull is especially challenging and unless the notched frames are perfectly cut and aligned the average builder is likely to become extremely frustrated with the results. It's been my experience that planking expansions are just a rough guide to the final shape of the plank which can only be determined once the hull is faired. So inexperienced (and experienced) builders should have some reservations about pre-cut planking and framing (unless for a less complex project such as the Syren Models barge)
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Great fix Kevin! Enjoy your holiday in T&T. You can go with a clear conscience now. Two observations: Part of the difficulty in building a fully framed model for the first time is that it is a learning process. We inevitably make mistakes early one due to inexperience with the techniques that come back to bite us later. Knowing how to fix them is part of the learning process. I believe your use of the heat gun on the aft frames does not bend them so much as to soften the glue. After removing the heat the glue resets in it's new position. Check the centerline again after your time away from the shop to make sure it is still to spec. If it has drifted slightly to starboard again you may need to place a truss rod as Druxey did in an inconspicuous location.
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That's a very fine and realistic looking coppering job Rob!
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- clipper
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That Greg guy sounds like a pain in the ****! He (I) made a similar error and had to massage my stern lights into the proper locations by filing the counter timbers later on. Not ideal! Your new plan is the way to go. Do not precut the mortises in the transom until it is fit. Then measure the distance between the outer counter timbers at their extreme upper inner tips as well as their distance across the wing transom. Compare to David's plan. If all is to spec then you can cut your mortises according to plan after establishing the centerline on the transom. If one or the other distance is off then you will have massage the transom mortises to insure that all recesses for the lights are symmetrical. Make sure tot use the Elevation of Counter Timbers (chapter 7.1) illustration as a reference for those distances. Stay the course Kevin. This is tough stuff!
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All of your planking has such sweet curves. Love your use of the thicker batten as a form for the moulding. Such a simple solution to the problem of wavy lines.
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Nice job Kevin. That’s a particularly difficult part of the model. Might be worthwhile to mock up the stern lights to make sure each of the spaces are symmetrical. I had an issue here that came back to bite me later. Treating for termites is not something most of us have to worry about!
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Wonderful work! Those contrasting chocks really show off your framing skills. Looks like your foremost full frame fays perfectly into the cants.
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What Glue is Best for Rigging Ropes?
dvm27 replied to Bill Jackson's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
What Jaeger said. I've been happy with the Lineco line of archival products for philately and will use their neutral pH white glue, diluted for rigging. -
Congratulations on the completion of this deck Kevin. Another milestone. The complexity of a build such as this guarantees errors will be made. But it's very complexity makes it difficult for the eye to focus on individual errors. The overall appearance is excellent!
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I think you're OK with placing the wale after finishing the framing. The deck margin planks are above the wale so there shouldn't interfere with each other. At least that's the way it is in my version of Hannah.
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Beautiful job so far Mike. This was my first scratch built model and it was a lot of fun. Actually my model is a model of Harold Hahn's version in the Washington Navy Yard. For me, the most difficult part of the build (as it was for Hahn as well) was the open bulwarks/margin deck planking arrangement. I found it easier to fit the margin planks before planking the outside of the hull. You're a long way from there but you'll need to give this some thought. As well, Hahn's rigging plans left much to be worked out, especially the falls of numerous lines. I spent hours in the museum copying his rigging. Hopefully, Randy's plans include rigging.
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You could always blacken the top. It's authentic and hides a lot of imperfections (I know from experience).
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I have done the same Bitao. It will take you less time to reach the same point in the project and you will be happier with the results. -
If you have cut your fames to the bevel lines before installing them you will have stepping both inside and outside the frames across the hull (depending on the curvature). Apply pencil marks over the inside and outside surfaces of the frames. Start with 80 grit paper, then progressive grits until the pencil lines disappear. Your hull should then be fair. Obviously check the thickness to insure you are on spec.
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Just be careful not to over-bevel! If you cross over the bevel line the frames fore and aft of it will also be affected. Personally, I do no beveling until all the frames are installed. If you choose to pre-bevel then perhaps stay 1/16th inch shy of the bevel marks to allow for the inevitable errors that arise when gluing the frames in place.
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Beautiful work! For some reason I had a lot of trouble with the foremost full frame (L fore) faying in perfectly with the aft most fore cant 12. I had to remake it several times. I might suggest you temporarily affix the fore cant 12 (two small pinpoints of white glue can easily be dissolved with alcohol later) then seeing how the frame L fore fits on your model.
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Nice job Kevin! Do you have the sensitive drilling attachment for the Sherline Mill? It makes drilling small holes in brass a snap.
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Your model belongs in a nautical museum Bitao. Or imagine her displayed next to the actual Cutty Sark. We hope you'll continue posting you build logs here!- 257 replies
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That is a jack which is used to elevate the blade. It s placed under one of the four bolts of the motor arbor and the knob turned to either elevate or lower the blade. My Preacs don't have the aluminum casing or maybe I removed it at some point to more easily adjust the blade height. If necessary there is a excellent motor replacement available for this saw which is more powerful and an easy retrofit http://shipahoymodels.com/equipmentforsale.htm.
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If you don't screw up at least one of those mortises over the course of framing the hull...I'm going to hate you. Getting a fair line was the most challenging part of the build for me.
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And one wonders how you will display these ten little gems so as not to obscure all the minute details you've painstakingly included.
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- open boat
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