dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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While awaiting Chucks cross-section maybe consider a x-section of Echo? The plans and build log are available for free from Admiralty Models http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Tips.html -
Rigged Speedwell dimensions: length (tip of ensign staff to end of jib boom) - 34". Height - 25 1/2", width - 12" at the main yard. The unrigged hull is 22" in length. Chuck will have many challenges in making her into a kit but it starts with the carvings. That's what attracted me to her initially. If he can have carvings produced of similar quality to Winchelsea then I have no doubt this will be the finest ship model kit ever produced. By the way, for those first time plank on framers, the photo of Pegasus shown above to compare with Speedwell is my first failed attempt. That's several months work which is basically firewood but that I could not throw away. I believe the system Chuck is designing will prevent failures like this. Now all of you Winchelsea-ites get back to work so Chuck can proceed to the next project!
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Photos of the carving are in the original build log https://modelshipworld.com/topic/370-speedwell-by-dvm27-greg-herbert-ketch-rigged-sloop-1752/page/8/#comment-809695, message #223 I believe.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Where you been Alex? The rest of us have been mesmerized by this log for months! -
I chose to model her for a couple of reasons. First, she would fit into the last available space in my study (fully rigged). Second, she's a relatively easy rig when compared to a three masted ship. But most importantly her carvings and profile make for a beautiful model. I believe that Chuck will make this kit both accessible for first time POF modelers and a beautiful representation of the NMM model.
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After some consideration David and I have decided that the topic of next year's workshop will be on clinker style planking. To me there is nothing lovelier than a clinker planked hull but they are a bit more difficult to successfully execute than the traditional carvel planking. For this workshop the participants will be provided with a laser cut hull section (to be assembled prior to the workshop). The principles of clinker planking will be taught and the participants will be doing their own planking over the course of the 1 1/2 day workshop. The workshop will take place in Baltimore, MD, probably towards the end of May'2022. We will also be taking a trip to Prebble Hall the day before (or after) in order to view the magnificent Rogers collection. Now that Grant Walker is back a guided tour is always awesome. As with everything else in the past two years all depends on the Covid rates at that time but life goes on and we are making plans. If you are interested in attending this workshop please send a PM or e-mail to me at dvm27@comcast.net so that I can add you to our e-mail group list. Also, please indicate whether a mid-week workshop might work for you. Hotels, workshop space and restaurants are generally easier mid-week than weekends and a trip to the Naval Academy could be incorporated on the second afternoon. Alert, clinker hull by Roger Cole
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That's a hole-in-one Mark! You're lucky as well that French warships seem to only have one pair of hawse holes. I always have trouble getting the second pair exactly right.
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I’ve always used water stones but really like the diamond ones better as they sharpen much faster. The trade off is price though. But, as Druxey wrote, the Veritas guide is a must regardless of the stones you use.
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On a professional woodworkers site his process is to halve the distance to the pencil cut line with each pass. This works well for me. It does take some practice to keep your chisel vertical but you'll definitely get better at it over time. I just purchased some diamond sharpening stones and leather strop and they are working better for me than my old water stones.
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Safe edges are files which cut on only two surfaces (or sometimes three) and are perfectly flat on the other sides. They are great for refining corners. The pillar files by Grobet on page 12 of https://www.grobetusa.com/content/NEWFile2014.pdf are good examples. Many carpenters grind the edges of their files to make their own. I don't disagree with Druxey that you don't need a mill to make perfect joints. I just bought a Kell honing guide and love it. But mills are a lot of fun!
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The dean of POF ship modelers used only a jewelers saw so you are in good company. You should be able to make nice keel slots by scoring both sides with a chisel and working from the center out with a chisel. You need a really sharp chisel and much has been written on that subject here already. You can also purchase small square files with the cutting teeth only on the top and bottom. this helps refine the edges.
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Which ever method you choose if using clamps please consider using small scraps of wood between the clamp edges and the plank. I can see a small divot in the plank adjacent to the clamp edge. Scraps provide even gluing pressure across the joint with no marring from the clamp edge.
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If you're building a second version make the first keel/false keel assembly slightly thicker with the tissue paper extending beyond the edges. Use a new blade to trim the excess paper to the margins. Then run through your thickness sander or over sandpaper affixed to a smooth surface for final dimensioning. You should get a perfectly clean paper edge this way.
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Innovative tool Kevin! For planking I would use tapered offcuts as wedges slipped between the ledge of the margin plank and the deck plank being glued. You can generate a surprising amount of pressure with tapered wedges. It's also efficient as you can just narrow them for the next run of planking.
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The use of the thin tape to make the reinforcing rings is very clever and looks very convincing Toni!
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Chuck makes a good point Siggi. Adding that fine molded detail is difficult, especially around curved surfaces. I assume you are using a scraper.
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Not sure your scraper will work with the rising wood attached but it would be a simple thing to knock off the lower edge of the rising wood with a v gouge if you add the rising wood after gouging the keel rabbet. There are many micro chisels with V-gouges available. for example: https://www.etsy.com/listing/829851705/6pc-ramelson-sub-mini-wood-carving?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-craft_supplies_and_tools-tools_and_equipment-tools-other&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQjwrJOMBhCZARIsAGEd4VFVN-rbOsnoV5afiynLCTWedCa7SWmgSkYYybXi-DfKyItXOfDjyaEaArPBEALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_12569400892_126353655504_507394790794_aud-459688892115:pla-295604191622_c__829851705_443242358&utm_custom2=12569400892&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrJOMBhCZARIsAGEd4VFVN-rbOsnoV5afiynLCTWedCa7SWmgSkYYybXi-DfKyItXOfDjyaEaArPBEALw_wcB
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It is easier to add the false keel sections together directly onto the keel as it is difficult to achieve a good bond over the angled tarred joint. I first glue a strip of black archival tissue paper over one surface, trim it when dry then perforate with pinholes. I seem to get a better bond this way. Additionally I would add the rising wood before cutting the rabbet as the bottom edge of the rising wood is incorporated into the rabbet.
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They are laser cut in one layer and all the planking is laser inscribed. I had built them originally of three ply layers but always had warping. After a year or so Chucks are still perfectly flat. I have also noted many Navy Board models where the tops have significant warpage. David's amazing carvings are all secured in place (see prior page).
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With Speedwell back in her home port I can commence the rigging. I have not sat idly by during her absence though and have fully prepared her masts and spars to expedite rigging upon her return. I will be using ropes and tackle made by Chuck as they are the finest commercially available in my opinion. As well I will be using Johann's excellent Creole log for inspiration. All the masting, sparring and rigging is fully described in volume two of the Speedwell series so I won't be going into quite as much detail as previously. As my last rigged model was constructed over twenty years ago I expect to proceed at a glacial pace. For me the process is more enjoyable than looking at the finished product. In the photo below one can see the unusual tops which are present on the contemporary model. I found them aesthetically unpleasing and have constructed the more traditional top I am used to seeing. If anyone can cite a contemporary model with the original tops constructed as per Speedwells I would appreciate a photo.
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Best of luck on your build. As David suggested, at a minimum you'll need to become proficient with a jewelers saw as there are many complex futtocks in the model. Taking your time and learning how to use files properly can result in an excellent model (as evidenced by Harold Hahn).
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Great set of photos Chuck. Did you happen to note that besides the excellent carvings the builder actually carved the volute scrolls of the hance pieces in a delicate floral (?) pattern (1109). I thought it was damaged at first but then noted this feature on all the scrolls. I can see how members of the Admiralty could be influenced at the prospect of receiving one of these models as a gift.
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Harold Hahn method
dvm27 replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
When we contemplated the swan class build I asked designer David Antscherl to loft the jig for the Hahn style method. But even for a sixth rate the jig was very complex for properly lofted frames and I decided to build upright. Having built several Hahn style models I actually found building upright just as easy and more fun (I suppose because it followed actual building practice and you don't have to wait for the jig to be chopped away before you truly appreciate the lines of the model). Another alternative that is popular among French builders is to build upright using a jig below the toptimber line. Not too difficult to make if you have the framing plan. -
I think anyone who has built Winnie to this stage should be more than capable of making an impressive belfry with your kit Chuck. You can only simplify things so much before it affects the quality of the final product. I've built a couple of your mini-kits and achieved great results with patience and a light touch.
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