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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    These are the best looking I've seen: http://www.propblur.com/store/p80/RigH1.html. I ordered some of the smaller size. I would just bend the round part 90 degrees to the hook. Morope does look great but handles very poorly. Chuck's line of rope is fantastic.
  2. dvm27
    It's inspiring to see the level of detail you include in work that is essentially hidden. Imagine the delight of some distant heir cleaning the model in 100 years and discovering that the hinges actually work and what is inside. Perhaps the perfect place to secrete a hidden message? Happy New Year Micheal. We all look forward to your updates!
  3. dvm27
    Thanks Mark. The work has been finished. I just need to sort out the easiest way to get the enormous data files to those wishing to purchase them. It will include some kick-*** videos as well! The complete works should be available in January. In the meantime here are a couple of photos of the model on the open seas.
  4. dvm27
    Not very obvious at all! But those diminishing futtocks, along with the shifted and cast toptimbers make this sort of modelling both fun and challenging (midships photo of my Swan class Pegasus attached). I wouldn't include them in any scale smaller that 1:48 though as I don't think the human eye could pick out the 1" differences in width. Happy New Year, CAF (don't know your name). I very much enjoy your innovative work in ship model kits
  5. dvm27
    Lovely work Dave. Can you imagine repeating it for anything larger than a sixth rate? Fully agree with you about Kudin’s videos. They’re a treasure.
  6. dvm27
    I hope you had the Model Shipwright indexes when you did this! The published two over the years.
  7. dvm27
    Thank you for the early Christmas present, Doris! We'll all be happy with just periodic updates. No need to add time-consuming captions. I'm amused by the main shroud going into the seat-of-ease. Must have been crowded in there!
  8. dvm27
    Great start on your model Chris. As a Midshipmen I'm sure you were inspired by the incredible Robert Cook model in the Naval Academy Museum. A nice history of the ship and photos of both models may be viewed in an article by naval historian Grant Walker at https://www.usna.edu/Users/oceano/pguth/website/shipwrecks/sailing_ships/Construction_lecture.htm.
  9. dvm27
    Welcome aboard Tom. I just placed an order for your finger planes. Great carvings as well!
  10. dvm27
    Damn, Chuck, those volute scrolls are as nice as any I've seen on contemporary models. I think you've got this laser printing thing down pat! I wonder if you'll be able to do complex moldings like the main rail when you get to the bow. It's difficult even with scrapers.
  11. dvm27
    That's a lovely model, Toni and I love the details of the launching cradle. I look forward to your approach to clinker style planking
  12. dvm27
    I believe Chris is correct. Our Doris is quite famous worldwide. There are so many ship model forums throughout the world with unbelievably talented model makers. Doris can't possibly post to them all!
  13. dvm27
    It's been awhile since we've had an update from Doris. If anyone follows her on a different forum please send her a PM saying we miss her!
  14. dvm27
    Personally, I like the Minerva look of the natural shingles. The painted version clashes a bit with the background frieze color in my opinion while the natural shingles complement the lower finishing piece. But you know what they say about opinions... Have a great time in New Orleans. You may more closely resemble that Chuck figurine after a few days of Louisiana cuisine!
  15. dvm27
    Here's another view of that area. Grant Walker gave me a CD of hi-res photos of the model. Note the crazy lime green color of the interior. I also note the molding ends are beautifully shaped to reflect the profile. I wonder if they were left short intentionally or an upper carving might have been lost? I've seen contemporary models with the blue frieze, slate gray shingles, white fluted columns and red windows (matching the port linings). It's a striking combination! So many choices...
  16. dvm27
    I have used it Mike. But I found it difficult to use with a tapered round as most masts are. Just to much work to keep adjusting the holders to the different widths. In addition, the diameter of some spars was smaller than the smallest retaining diameter of the steady rest. I have had success using my gloved finger as a steady rest. It follows the opposite side of the piece, applying steady pressure during the cutting operation. Takes some practice to prevent over deflection but it's really not too difficult. But I have gone through a couple cheap pairs of work gloves! My current model Speedwell has some challenging masts. The main mast starts as a tapering octagonal, proceeds to tapering round then ends up square at the mastheads. Not a shape readily amenable to the lathe.
  17. dvm27
    Nobody loves the Sherline lathe more than me but for masts and spars I believe it's easier and more accurate to do them the old fashioned way. Most masts and yards on naval vessels were not round over their entire length (octagonal yard centers and square mastheads). Besides, the problem of deflection is significant especially over a long fitting like the lower mast. Starting with square stock then proceeding to octagonal then round is simple, fast and fun. The process is well described in David Antscherl's Vol. 4 of The Fully Framed Model.
  18. dvm27
    Not 100% sure I understand the entire process but you have excellent jewelry skills in addition to your woodworking abilities. I especially appreciated the hi-resolution video on a large screen television.
  19. dvm27
    Happy to hear that, Chris. Mine leaves a perfectly smooth surface, finer than the 180 grit papered disc sander. See if you et the same result on another hardwood.
  20. dvm27
    Chris, the cutting edge of the blade should be flush with the fore edge of the piece holding it in place. Should be a continuous angle from edge of cutter to holder. Photo should make it clear. The cutting edge protrudes about 4 mm from the holding piece. Hope this does it for you!
  21. dvm27
    Chris - have you tried the Proxxon service center? They were responsive to a previous service issue: https://www.proxxon.com/us/service/technical_request.php. If they can't help let me know and I'll photograph the blade positions. They're also reversible so, technically, you can just reverse them.
  22. dvm27
    Sorry, Chris, can't help. I have my new blades but was holding off changing them because of the problems you're having. Hope you get your planer back to spec!
  23. dvm27
    Personally, I think it would be awesome for Chuck's figure to be seated on the seats of ease, holding a miniature set of plans. Imagine future historians peering through the lights and trying to make sense of that one!
  24. dvm27
    Very nice result! I wonder if you could pressure wash the char off those windows without breaking them? Sorry about the fretwork. Makes it all the more impressive that model shipwrights did those 300 years ago with a jewelers saw and files!
  25. dvm27
    Looking forward to the publication. Ed. If it weren't for the rigging it would be on my build list one day ; -) We all wait with baited breath for news of your next project (assuming it is ship-related)

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