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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Nobody loves the Sherline lathe more than me but for masts and spars I believe it's easier and more accurate to do them the old fashioned way. Most masts and yards on naval vessels were not round over their entire length (octagonal yard centers and square mastheads). Besides, the problem of deflection is significant especially over a long fitting like the lower mast. Starting with square stock then proceeding to octagonal then round is simple, fast and fun. The process is well described in David Antscherl's Vol. 4 of The Fully Framed Model.
  2. dvm27
    Not 100% sure I understand the entire process but you have excellent jewelry skills in addition to your woodworking abilities. I especially appreciated the hi-resolution video on a large screen television.
  3. dvm27
    Happy to hear that, Chris. Mine leaves a perfectly smooth surface, finer than the 180 grit papered disc sander. See if you et the same result on another hardwood.
  4. dvm27
    Chris, the cutting edge of the blade should be flush with the fore edge of the piece holding it in place. Should be a continuous angle from edge of cutter to holder. Photo should make it clear. The cutting edge protrudes about 4 mm from the holding piece. Hope this does it for you!
  5. dvm27
    Chris - have you tried the Proxxon service center? They were responsive to a previous service issue: https://www.proxxon.com/us/service/technical_request.php. If they can't help let me know and I'll photograph the blade positions. They're also reversible so, technically, you can just reverse them.
  6. dvm27
    Sorry, Chris, can't help. I have my new blades but was holding off changing them because of the problems you're having. Hope you get your planer back to spec!
  7. dvm27
    Personally, I think it would be awesome for Chuck's figure to be seated on the seats of ease, holding a miniature set of plans. Imagine future historians peering through the lights and trying to make sense of that one!
  8. dvm27
    Very nice result! I wonder if you could pressure wash the char off those windows without breaking them? Sorry about the fretwork. Makes it all the more impressive that model shipwrights did those 300 years ago with a jewelers saw and files!
  9. dvm27
    Looking forward to the publication. Ed. If it weren't for the rigging it would be on my build list one day ; -) We all wait with baited breath for news of your next project (assuming it is ship-related)
  10. dvm27
    HI Chris. After ten years my Proxxon Planer transfers a very small longitudinal line on the wood. I assume one of the blades is nicked. I seem to recall there are two if them and swapping them out was a pain. But I can't be without my planer so I shall order a new set as well. I see they're only $10+ on Amazon.
  11. dvm27
    If you do decide to build the FA you may wish to purchase the book written by Dr. Clay Feldman on his construction of the model: https://www.amazon.com/Eighteenth-Century-American-Plank-Frame/dp/0961502118.
  12. dvm27
    Thanks Kurt. Recently I have been using this paste/flux combo. It is easy to apply through the syringe and flows quickly at very low heat: https://www.beaducation.com/p/3906-jewelry-making-tools-silver-solder-paste-soft-1-4-oz. I think the most important thing I have learned is to slowly warm the entire piece first then focus the flame on the joint. This makes the solder flow towards the joint.
  13. dvm27
    Just to clarify, Kurt, you still need a torch for Stay-Brite solder?
  14. dvm27
    Don't you just hate over-sanding, Keith? One second of inattention leads to a couple hour fix. Very sweet line now.
  15. dvm27
    If you fret the quality of your close up work the rest of us are doomed, Mark!
  16. dvm27
    It is quite difficult do have properly sized mutins as well as consistent pane symmetry across the transom. Not to mention all those changing bevels over the transom. My hat's off to you, Sir!
  17. dvm27
    Your work is seriously lacking...in resolution. Seriously Mark, work of this quality demands higher resolution photographs so we can better appreciate those minute details. Your planking runs are lovely!
  18. dvm27
    I used to think the camouflage scheme was silly and wouldn't fool anyone but your contrasting views of the model set in a sea make a convincing argument for it!
  19. dvm27
    Great video Kevin. Shows the importance of planning one or even two decks ahead to make sure all aligns in the end. Most important is to make sure your coamings, hatches and bitts are properly aligned from top to bottom. The other beams can be fudged a bit if needed to accomodate.
  20. dvm27
    Great photos, Chris! I especially note the lovely run of planking diminishing into the bow (for those following Toni's series on planking), the beautifully worked anchor stock wales and wash cants in particular. Bonus question - what is the small fitting on the port stem just below the cheeks?
  21. dvm27
    That's a beautifully planked hull, Chuck. I almost wonder if trunneling will detract from those lovely lines. Many of the Georgian style models at the academy are not trunneled.
  22. dvm27
    Had you thought of debonding the piece with isopropyl and replacing? Paring that piece back around the curve to a uniform thickness could prove challenging. But then again the new surface would be hidden by the cheeks anyway so perhaps it doesn't have to be perfect.
  23. dvm27
    I purchased the Vandalay duplicator for the Sherline lathe many years ago but had poor success duplicating parts. The link is https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/html/duplicator.html Perhaps you'll have better luck. I know of no others.
  24. dvm27
    Perhaps I missed it in the videos but where did your cannon come from? I assume they were cast.
  25. dvm27
    Spot on indeed, Keith! Well done.

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