dvm27
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How did I know that several months ago when you had no idea how to cast that the results would be a magnificent set of cannons? Well done, Mark! -
Admiralty model query
dvm27 replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Don't know if you have Simon Stevens new book Navy Board Ship Models Mark but his description of the frame making process on these models echos Bob's thoughts on their construction: "Navy Board models followed a construction sequence that had a noticable difference from that used on full-sized ships. Each complete frame was cut out from planks of wood, probably with a frame saw, rather than made up of separate floor timber, futtocks and top timbers. The hull would then be constructed of a run of complete frames glued together" Following this, a section of every alternate frame or frame pair was removed with a chisel. These chisel marks are easily viewed with magnification. In actuality, building a Navy Board ship model this way would be very quick and easy. On would just need to lay out the entire frame pattern over a suitably dimensioned plank of wood, cut out the frame in one piece and move onto to the next. All the frames could be temporarily tacked together, faired and the lines of floor heads marked out. Disassemble, remove alternate frame sections and reassemble. The model below was actually made of solid plywood frames except for the visible frames on each end.
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Your work is an inspiration for those of us who have little patience for rigging. When in port if the sails were unbent would these lines have been handled in a similar manner? There's always the guestion of how to handle the running rigging when sails are not included on the model.
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- young america
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That bow view looks spot on Ben. Well done! That aft second strake above the wales looks like it was a doozie to make.
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Sweet work, Chuck! Those laser cut window patterns do a great job in establishing a nice smooth run of stern lights. I'm intrigued by the tafferel with side lights lying on the base. Was this an earlier attempt to frame the area or is it to be applied over the work you just completed?
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- winchelsea
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Nicely framed, Chuck. I look forward to your usual excellent planking job. Have you ever considered a varnished finish like so many Navy Board models had? The finish holds up even after centuries.
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Thanks for the kind words. I am just about ready to turn the model over to David, who will provide and extensively document the carvings on Speedwell. We are toying with the idea of making castings of the carvings available so that builders of the model who lack this skill (like me) may have another option. While David is handling that I will be preparing masts and spars and will commence rigging once the carvings are finished. There is just enough rigging on her to be interesting without being boringly repetitive (no disrespect, Ed). A 2019 publication date may be a tad optimistic as my job leaves little time fo ship model making these days but here are a couple of updated photos. She has a sweet hull doesn't she?
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If I'm not mistaken the Bellona model depicts it in it's launching cradle. You've a lovely model Kevin and quite frankly I think it would be best displayed on pedestals or cradle within a simple case.
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The best looking cannons I've seen are made by CNC, at a very high rate. Can't add the touch hole details or monogram but the barrels are perfect with incredibly delicate astragals and reinforcing rings.
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Awesome work, Mark. The only thing that would make it better is if you were to take higher resolution photos so that we might better enjoy all the fine details you incorporate.
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Very nice video, Kevin. If you flood the threaded hole to receive the bolt with super glue it hardens it and makes it less likely to be stripped after repeated use.
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Just be aware that the blackened brass colored surface may not stand up to being hammered in place. But if you pre-drill the hole and gently push the pin into place you may preserve the finish. Those track fixing pins are designed to be nailed in so their surface finish may stand up to hammering.
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Great video, Kevin. Two suggestions to improve my version. Replace those bolts with threaded knurled thumb screws and place brass washers where the bolts enter the jig as the constant tightening and loosening of the screws can deform the wood. It'll speed up the process considerably.
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Spectacular work as always Amalio. Your avatar figurehead is gorgeous. Any chance you could provide us with a larger photograph of her?
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Very nice job, Alan. That's exactly how I did it. But I agree that checking Kevins Thorn videos is a good idea as he ofter takes a different approach than I did with great results.
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It must be very difficult for you to decide how much of that beautiful joinery, such as the mortises in the hanging knees, to cover over or keep exposed. Wonderful work Amalio!
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Sent you a PM with info Mark. Unsure about copyright protocol in this instance.
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No more getting sick, Mark - we've been waiting for this update. Looks marvellous! Have you considered making a cutter that bores the hole while shaping the muzzle swell ? I've seen it in Frolich's book and perhaps elswhere on this site.
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Beautiful, Ben! Are you thinking of installing ribands below the wales (assuming you are not planking the lower hull)?
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Reminds me of that commercial where the couple presents a beautiful Kohler faucet to the architect and says "now build us a house around it".
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If I had planked more than a small section of the hull I would certainly have omitted those fillers!
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Brilliant, Michael! If you wish to make a Vimeo showing how you take that dull brass to a perfectly polished, scratch-free finished piece I shant complain!
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Nice job on those difficult pieces, Kevin. Did you try making the hooked scarph joints using the mill? They come out pretty sweet that way. I can't recall when I added the filler pieces between the floors of the frames but, in retrospect, it would have been easier before adding the keelson. Much easier to flush them with the inside of the hull before installing it. Certainly you should add them (if you are including them) before adding the limber strakes and other internal stiffeners. For the life of me I can't find where David mentions them in Volume 1 of TFFM but Ben covered them nicely in his log. I did not leave expansion gaps as he did and, in checking my model just now, no gaps have appeared in ten + years. But my model was constructed in a very stable temperature and humidity environment (underground basement). Sounds like you get a lot of rain there (love your videos) so perhaps Ben's method of leaving some of the fillers out would be appropriate for you.
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