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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Lovely work!. Are you familiar with the models and research of Texas A&M University who excavated her? If not check out http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report1/bellehull.htm
  2. You can also try laminating thinner strips over a form. Shape a piece for wood to the curve you want (add a little extra curve to allow for spring back). Glue and clamp the 2 or 3 thinner strips together over the form. when dry they will retain the curve.
  3. Depending on the lengths of the mast and spars you wish to make the lathe may not be the best choice due to deflection of the piece towards the center. Sherline does offer a steady rest but in a yard with an octagonal midsection this feature doesn't work well.
  4. So the clinker effect is created by paring back the next section of frame to the notch? I’m used to seeing the top of the plank shaved back to receive the bottom of the next plank. Is this how you built the 1:1 version? Seems easier.
  5. Chuck sets a very high bar, Mike. One could easily confuse your work with his. Always look forward to your updates!
  6. Marvellous model Alex. Didn't you make two of them? Hard to tell from the photos but at least one of the plans is Atalanta, a Swan class vessel. The class is featured in the four volume series by David Antscherl with every detail included. Plans and books are available from Sea Watch Books. Would love to see the quick and easy method you used to make the hull.
  7. Would look great in any maritime museum, Frank. Well done!
  8. The volute detail and molding looks excellent, Chuck. It's hard to believe they're laser cut!
  9. Perhaps one day you’ll prepare an index as to what is the subject of each video, Kudin. They are a remarkable resource.
  10. Like Druxey, my experience with cutting cover slips neatly was virtually non-existent. Well done!
  11. Atalanta would make a lovely model. If you use the NMM model as a basis, with it's lovely color palette, it's a guaranteed winner!
  12. Our fully rigged Swan class 3D model is almost complete. How cool would it have been to have this photo when building your fully framed model? The CD should be ready later this year. Kudos to Denis!
  13. Outstanding work, Jorgen. Airplane model details are so much cooler than when I was a kid. The cockpit detail, especially, is amazing (color PE details!). I find it amusing that aircraft modelers seem inclined to weather their models for a more realistic appearance while us ship modelers prefer a more pristine approach.
  14. What a fantastic and simple holding tool! Thanks for the tip. Do you have any video of making the brass bindings for the lower deadeyes?
  15. Admiralty Models has only a few three pounder Speedwell cannon barrels left. The set of eight are CNC turned in brass with exceptional detail. Bored for trunnions (included). Barrels are 1.125" in length (32 mm). If you are planning on building Speedwell at 1:48 scale then these are the cannons you want! Price for the set is $40 US plus shipping. If interested please send a PM or respond to dvm27@comcast.net.
  16. Wow, that's old school. Cutting out all those bulkheads to spec and getting them to align will be fun! The bulkhead and keel wood looks nice. Is it birch ply? Any warping over the years?
  17. Had some trouble loading at first Dave but then started loading deadeye with a curved hemostat (right hand) and tightening the chuck with the left hand. Only required finger pressure tightening to hold the deadeye in place. No bars required to tighten or loosen. Mark, the form tool cost was only $35 and included one on each end. I imagine they could make form tools for the muzzle, reinforcements and ball of a cannon. They are cut on a wire EDM machine (whatever that is) and are incredibly precise.
  18. Been awhile since my last update. Currently busy turning deadeyes and preparing for rigging. I had a form tool made for my by Sherline and it works beautifully for both the 10" and 7" deadeyes. Ideally I thought the form tool would part the finished deadeye precisely as both shoulders were formed but, in actual practice, the pressure resulted in the deadeye chain snapping off prematurely. I suspect this would not happen if the material was brass but wood just cannot handle the deflection. No problem though as I just shortened the parting portion of the form tool. Each deadeye was then parted off with a razor saw. Drilling was also a breeze using the rotary table on my mill. No holding jig required - the jaws keeps them in perfect position (thanks for the tip Ed). Later this month Speedwell heads up to Canada where David Antscherl will provide his carving magic. We have a detailed bill of carvings from the original so they should be very accurate.
  19. For the Byrnes saw I chose the 0.50" diameter hole and 3" diameter blades. Catalog numbers are: CT303012000 - .030" thick CT302012000, CT 304012000, CT305012000. (.020", 040" & 0.050" respectively). Ideally you should have a separate aluminium blade insert for each size to prevent small parts from flying into the machine after cutting. They're inexpensive and worth the effort in changing with each blade.
  20. Yup...got the 0.030" and it does a great job on boxwood. Also got varied widths from 0.008" to 0.052"
  21. I just received an order from Malco for blades for my Byrnes and Preac saws. They are beautifully made and cut through hardwood like butter. Thanks for the lead Chuck!
  22. Here is an online link to Roger's beautiful model. He has done significant additional research for his model. His clenched lap planking i the way I'd do it! http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/BuildingAlert.pdf I have seen a copper sheathed clinker planked model but can't recall where.
  23. Nice recovery, Jeff! Just curious - did the boy's parents sue you for allowing him to run with a dangerous, non-secured toy in your house?
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