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dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Had some trouble loading at first Dave but then started loading deadeye with a curved hemostat (right hand) and tightening the chuck with the left hand. Only required finger pressure tightening to hold the deadeye in place. No bars required to tighten or loosen. Mark, the form tool cost was only $35 and included one on each end. I imagine they could make form tools for the muzzle, reinforcements and ball of a cannon. They are cut on a wire EDM machine (whatever that is) and are incredibly precise.- 345 replies
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Been awhile since my last update. Currently busy turning deadeyes and preparing for rigging. I had a form tool made for my by Sherline and it works beautifully for both the 10" and 7" deadeyes. Ideally I thought the form tool would part the finished deadeye precisely as both shoulders were formed but, in actual practice, the pressure resulted in the deadeye chain snapping off prematurely. I suspect this would not happen if the material was brass but wood just cannot handle the deflection. No problem though as I just shortened the parting portion of the form tool. Each deadeye was then parted off with a razor saw. Drilling was also a breeze using the rotary table on my mill. No holding jig required - the jaws keeps them in perfect position (thanks for the tip Ed). Later this month Speedwell heads up to Canada where David Antscherl will provide his carving magic. We have a detailed bill of carvings from the original so they should be very accurate.
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For the Byrnes saw I chose the 0.50" diameter hole and 3" diameter blades. Catalog numbers are: CT303012000 - .030" thick CT302012000, CT 304012000, CT305012000. (.020", 040" & 0.050" respectively). Ideally you should have a separate aluminium blade insert for each size to prevent small parts from flying into the machine after cutting. They're inexpensive and worth the effort in changing with each blade.
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Yup...got the 0.030" and it does a great job on boxwood. Also got varied widths from 0.008" to 0.052"
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I just received an order from Malco for blades for my Byrnes and Preac saws. They are beautifully made and cut through hardwood like butter. Thanks for the lead Chuck!
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Beautiful planking job Ryland! So was the lining out just an exercise since Chucks spiled planks fit so well?
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- Medway Longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Here is an online link to Roger's beautiful model. He has done significant additional research for his model. His clenched lap planking i the way I'd do it! http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/BuildingAlert.pdf I have seen a copper sheathed clinker planked model but can't recall where.
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- alert
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Nice recovery, Jeff! Just curious - did the boy's parents sue you for allowing him to run with a dangerous, non-secured toy in your house?
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Very nice video, Kudin. I especially enjoyed your demonstration of splicing the rope. I have a question regarding your planking of your hull. I did not see this demonstrated in your videos. Have you applied black paper between each of the planks or have you slightly beveled the edges to create a small shadow or recess? The effect is different than most other planked hulls I have seen.
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Gorgeous work! Personally, I love the brass look which mirrors the builders ship models of that era.
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- mikasa
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Welcome aboard Kudin. I have been following your excellent build videos on YouTube and one thing I admire about you is your willingness to replace older inferior work with new improved versions. I should warn viewers that the CC/translation feature is a bit buggy with only about 50% of the text accurately translated but it's enough to get the idea. Kudin's videos are among the finest ship model building videos available.
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Stunning work, Bob!
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Your model belongs in the NMM or Science Museum in whatever interactive exhibit they have depicting the tea trade or clipper ship era. But I'm sure she'll find a great home somewhere.
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- young america
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Nice job on those steps, Kevin. You may find it convenient to use built up card patterns of the area in order to get the actual shape to transfer to the wooden blank. It's very simple and wastes no wood. I just use pieces of index card stock glued together progressively with white glue. You'll find this method particularly useful later on when determining bulkhead shapes as they meet the hull. In case you're wondering, the pencil lines are placed to help position them in the mill vice. Each line is parallel to the surface that needs to be cut and would line up with the top of the mill vice jaws.
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Nice work on those complicated outer counter timbers. If you nailed them on the first attempt extra kudos!
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- le gros ventre
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Lists lining cannonports
dvm27 replied to TomJonas's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Perhaps he is referring to port stops? -
I studied all the photos under high magnification. There are many lines converging on the channels but I'm pretty sure each of the shroud lines ends up on a 4-5 ft. tall iron stave. Not sure how the shroud is attached up top but the stave appears to terminate within a shackle on the channel. This shackle, in turn, pierces the channel and ends up as a link which is bolted to the hull. At lease that's my impression from studying the photos. I am not well versed in French ship building though.
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I do have this lovely book. It has beautiful photos of most details of the model but, unfortunately, not this area. However, in the attached photo blown up it does appear to match DJ's illustration. Other photos show a similar arrangement. I cannot discern any shrouds ending in the usual deadeye arrangement. They appear to end in some sort of long iron stave.
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Well, as you're finding out, building a plank of frame model can be...frustrating! But the only strake of significance is #15 where the deck beams seat. Your plan of correction is a good one. I promise you that you will never even see those other strakes after the lower deck is installed.
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Sopwith Camel F.1 - Model Airways - 1/16 Scale (3/4" = 1')
dvm27 replied to DocBlake's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Look forward to your build, Doc. I'm also an aviation enthusiast and my favorite TV show is Airplane Disasters (go figure). I'm sure you're familiar with Tom's YouTube videos on building airplane models like yours but for others check this one out. It's ingenious. -
Geez, Ed, has it really been six years? Is it just me or does time seem to speed up as you get older!? It's been a wonderful log, full of innovative techniques and building excellence. Many of us have dreamed of taking on a clipper ship but few have the talent, skill and patience required for such a complex project. Bravo!
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So what do you get PopPop on his 65th birthday when he already has everything he needs for his hobby? A paper on bulkhead model made from the pages of his own book. They even bought their own copy for the artist to make the model from the plans. If you look closely it has all the details of my model. Definitely one of the coolest gifts I've ever received!
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How did I know that several months ago when you had no idea how to cast that the results would be a magnificent set of cannons? Well done, Mark!
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Admiralty model query
dvm27 replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Don't know if you have Simon Stevens new book Navy Board Ship Models Mark but his description of the frame making process on these models echos Bob's thoughts on their construction: "Navy Board models followed a construction sequence that had a noticable difference from that used on full-sized ships. Each complete frame was cut out from planks of wood, probably with a frame saw, rather than made up of separate floor timber, futtocks and top timbers. The hull would then be constructed of a run of complete frames glued together" Following this, a section of every alternate frame or frame pair was removed with a chisel. These chisel marks are easily viewed with magnification. In actuality, building a Navy Board ship model this way would be very quick and easy. On would just need to lay out the entire frame pattern over a suitably dimensioned plank of wood, cut out the frame in one piece and move onto to the next. All the frames could be temporarily tacked together, faired and the lines of floor heads marked out. Disassemble, remove alternate frame sections and reassemble. The model below was actually made of solid plywood frames except for the visible frames on each end.
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