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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Very nice video, Kevin. If you flood the threaded hole to receive the bolt with super glue it hardens it and makes it less likely to be stripped after repeated use.
  2. Just be aware that the blackened brass colored surface may not stand up to being hammered in place. But if you pre-drill the hole and gently push the pin into place you may preserve the finish. Those track fixing pins are designed to be nailed in so their surface finish may stand up to hammering.
  3. Great video, Kevin. Two suggestions to improve my version. Replace those bolts with threaded knurled thumb screws and place brass washers where the bolts enter the jig as the constant tightening and loosening of the screws can deform the wood. It'll speed up the process considerably.
  4. Spectacular work as always Amalio. Your avatar figurehead is gorgeous. Any chance you could provide us with a larger photograph of her?
  5. Very nice job, Alan. That's exactly how I did it. But I agree that checking Kevins Thorn videos is a good idea as he ofter takes a different approach than I did with great results.
  6. It must be very difficult for you to decide how much of that beautiful joinery, such as the mortises in the hanging knees, to cover over or keep exposed. Wonderful work Amalio!
  7. Very nice job on those difficult limber strakes Kevin.
  8. Sent you a PM with info Mark. Unsure about copyright protocol in this instance.
  9. No more getting sick, Mark - we've been waiting for this update. Looks marvellous! Have you considered making a cutter that bores the hole while shaping the muzzle swell ? I've seen it in Frolich's book and perhaps elswhere on this site.
  10. Beautiful, Ben! Are you thinking of installing ribands below the wales (assuming you are not planking the lower hull)?
  11. Reminds me of that commercial where the couple presents a beautiful Kohler faucet to the architect and says "now build us a house around it".
  12. If I had planked more than a small section of the hull I would certainly have omitted those fillers!
  13. Brilliant, Michael! If you wish to make a Vimeo showing how you take that dull brass to a perfectly polished, scratch-free finished piece I shant complain!
  14. Nice job on those difficult pieces, Kevin. Did you try making the hooked scarph joints using the mill? They come out pretty sweet that way. I can't recall when I added the filler pieces between the floors of the frames but, in retrospect, it would have been easier before adding the keelson. Much easier to flush them with the inside of the hull before installing it. Certainly you should add them (if you are including them) before adding the limber strakes and other internal stiffeners. For the life of me I can't find where David mentions them in Volume 1 of TFFM but Ben covered them nicely in his log. I did not leave expansion gaps as he did and, in checking my model just now, no gaps have appeared in ten + years. But my model was constructed in a very stable temperature and humidity environment (underground basement). Sounds like you get a lot of rain there (love your videos) so perhaps Ben's method of leaving some of the fillers out would be appropriate for you.
  15. Those vent holes really catch my eye, Michael. Very delicate and refined. You should add video and create a You Tube channel!
  16. Holy cow...that photoetched instrument panel makes me want to take up aircraft model making again! But I'd miss that Testors liquid cement with the pleasants side effects (it would craze the plastic, stick your fingers together and make you high as a kite). I'm guessing that's no longer available.
  17. The very definition of craftsmanship, Michael!Your updates are a treat for those of us who are metally-challenged.
  18. Looks like you have little to no fairing to do amidships. I assume that's not an 8-axis machine. Imagine havinga mill that could also cut the changing bevels of the frames!
  19. So what's next, Ken, something in metal? I assume you've had enough rigging for awhile! Hope you'll post any non-ship model builds in the appropriate area on our site.
  20. From Building the Wooden Walls, Brian Lavery, 1991: " Gun Tackle - The thickest were the breech ropes, 7 1/2in in circumference on a 32-pounder, and one was used for each gun. The middle part of the rope was turned round the button of the gun, and seized on to it; each end was then led to a ring bolt on the side of the ship and attached to it, probably with a bowline. The tackle was intended to restrain the recoil of the gun when it was fired. It was long enough to allow the gun to run someway back from the port and so be reloaded, but not so long that it ran onto the coamings and other fittings near the centerline of the ship". When it comes to English ships I can think of no better source than Lavery. I'm not quite sure how to interpret "seized onto it" but perhaps seizing under the button as Druxey suggests is what he is referring to. Lavery is also very specific in describing the carriages and makes no mentions of iron hoops on the trucks.
  21. The draw plate is a must have Alan. By the way, you can sharpen these using wet stones.
  22. Brilliant, Kenny. As you learned, it is very difficult for most of us to shape those timberheads on the model. I can also recall ruining several of them by screwing up the last cut. Assembly line style, as you have done, is the way to go. Extras are always a great idea as recreating the setups a month down the road are virtually impossible. I ruined one fixed block on Speedwell and re-creating it a year later to match the others is a royal pain!
  23. Look forward to this build, Dan. Was just there last month and saw La Boheme. Awesome experience. I noted from the side that it looks a lot like a ship. Wonder if that's just me?
  24. You can also purchase leather in any color from Model Motorcars https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/products/real-leather. Also, spend a few minutes looking at these scale masterpieces.
  25. Can you be a bit more specific? Did you inherit a model kit? Who was it made by? Or is it a built model. In that case photos would be helpful.
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