dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Reminds me of that commercial where the couple presents a beautiful Kohler faucet to the architect and says "now build us a house around it". -
If I had planked more than a small section of the hull I would certainly have omitted those fillers!
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Brilliant, Michael! If you wish to make a Vimeo showing how you take that dull brass to a perfectly polished, scratch-free finished piece I shant complain!
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Nice job on those difficult pieces, Kevin. Did you try making the hooked scarph joints using the mill? They come out pretty sweet that way. I can't recall when I added the filler pieces between the floors of the frames but, in retrospect, it would have been easier before adding the keelson. Much easier to flush them with the inside of the hull before installing it. Certainly you should add them (if you are including them) before adding the limber strakes and other internal stiffeners. For the life of me I can't find where David mentions them in Volume 1 of TFFM but Ben covered them nicely in his log. I did not leave expansion gaps as he did and, in checking my model just now, no gaps have appeared in ten + years. But my model was constructed in a very stable temperature and humidity environment (underground basement). Sounds like you get a lot of rain there (love your videos) so perhaps Ben's method of leaving some of the fillers out would be appropriate for you.
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Those vent holes really catch my eye, Michael. Very delicate and refined. You should add video and create a You Tube channel!
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Holy cow...that photoetched instrument panel makes me want to take up aircraft model making again! But I'd miss that Testors liquid cement with the pleasants side effects (it would craze the plastic, stick your fingers together and make you high as a kite). I'm guessing that's no longer available.
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The very definition of craftsmanship, Michael!Your updates are a treat for those of us who are metally-challenged.
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Looks like you have little to no fairing to do amidships. I assume that's not an 8-axis machine. Imagine havinga mill that could also cut the changing bevels of the frames!
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So what's next, Ken, something in metal? I assume you've had enough rigging for awhile! Hope you'll post any non-ship model builds in the appropriate area on our site.
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From Building the Wooden Walls, Brian Lavery, 1991: " Gun Tackle - The thickest were the breech ropes, 7 1/2in in circumference on a 32-pounder, and one was used for each gun. The middle part of the rope was turned round the button of the gun, and seized on to it; each end was then led to a ring bolt on the side of the ship and attached to it, probably with a bowline. The tackle was intended to restrain the recoil of the gun when it was fired. It was long enough to allow the gun to run someway back from the port and so be reloaded, but not so long that it ran onto the coamings and other fittings near the centerline of the ship". When it comes to English ships I can think of no better source than Lavery. I'm not quite sure how to interpret "seized onto it" but perhaps seizing under the button as Druxey suggests is what he is referring to. Lavery is also very specific in describing the carriages and makes no mentions of iron hoops on the trucks.
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The draw plate is a must have Alan. By the way, you can sharpen these using wet stones.
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Brilliant, Kenny. As you learned, it is very difficult for most of us to shape those timberheads on the model. I can also recall ruining several of them by screwing up the last cut. Assembly line style, as you have done, is the way to go. Extras are always a great idea as recreating the setups a month down the road are virtually impossible. I ruined one fixed block on Speedwell and re-creating it a year later to match the others is a royal pain!
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Look forward to this build, Dan. Was just there last month and saw La Boheme. Awesome experience. I noted from the side that it looks a lot like a ship. Wonder if that's just me?
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You can also purchase leather in any color from Model Motorcars https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/products/real-leather. Also, spend a few minutes looking at these scale masterpieces.
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Can you be a bit more specific? Did you inherit a model kit? Who was it made by? Or is it a built model. In that case photos would be helpful.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
dvm27 replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Seriously, Doris? Broad arrow and proof marks on your cannons? I've never seen them on a model before. I believe you just gave Mark S. a heart attack. Truly you are a wonder!- 1,035 replies
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We (Admiralty Models) will conduct a workshop on carving sometime this year (mid-year we think). We are open to conducting it on either side of the border but past logistics seem to indicate that the easiest venue is in Baltimore. Our expenses are the least there, hence we can keep the workshop fee at a reasonable level. Further details will be posted on MSW and our website www.admiraltymodels.com, soon.
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Don’t forget that the three most impressive objects on Longridge’s Victory, the stern lanterns, were made by another craftsmen. Besides, if you’re truly emulating a Navy Board Model, most of these specialty items were farmed out to jewelers and other specialists so you’d be in good company.
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Very nice job, Kevin. Rest assured I didn’t get the block correct on my first try either!
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Small world, John. I didn’t recall your MSW connection when I visited the museum last week. That is a very fine model you’re building with only hand tools in plain view of the public!
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Mark, as sure as I knew you were a gifted ship modeler at one of our earlier workshops I know that you will not only solve this problem but that is will look spectacular. On full sized barrels I have seen the cypher is sort of inset into the barrel, not really proud of it. A subtle suggestion may work better that an in-you-face crystal clear cypher. Just one more opinion to add to the many you’ve received.
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That’s how I affixed mine Mark, using 5 minute epoxy. Slightly over-contour the cypher to conform to the barrel. It’s a bit dicey keeping everything neat and tidy while the epoxy is setting but a little seep out is easily cleaned with isopropyl.
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Just curious Mark. If you sweated those cyphers and vents onto the masters wouldn’t they be incorporated into the casting?
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I’ve never seen a rifled bore on a ship model before Valerie! Your work reminds me of the finest builders models made by shipping companies in the 1900’s.
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Well, the Czechoslovakian fellow who provided our cannons turns them out in about 2 minutes per (not including drilling the trunion holes and muzzle bores). Such is the beauty of CNC. But perhaps he has a commercial setup. I do think the look of a cast cannon gives a more realistic impression than smooth brass. Your workshop view is magnificent!
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