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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. At the risk of sounding hieratical I would suggest not gluing the mast to the step. If, for some reason the ship is ever rerigged or part of the mast breaks, being able to remove it makes this very easy. As an example look at Olha's conservation of the HMS Boreas (YouTube). Assuming the foot of the mast is fitted loosely into some sort of step the standing rigging will keep the masts perfectly positioned once the laniards are reeved and tensioned. An additional advantage is that some adjustments are still possible in the mast position if warpage occurs in the months it takes to complete the rigging process.
  2. This is a beautiful and unique interpretation of a ship model that has been constructed by many others. It’s a pleasure’s to follow your log.
  3. Very nice job on those ratlines. I often see them too large when compared to the shrouds but yours look very much to scale. I found that tying every fifth row, then filling in the spaces between, keeps them correctly tensioned all the way up.
  4. I look foreword to your build John. It's been awhile since I've seen one of these solid hull models taken to completion. Personally, I think they are more difficult than plank on bulkhead models. I assume the hull is pine? hard to tell from the photo.
  5. Looking at your work reminds me of the Christmas train gardens I visited in my youth. They inspired me with their complexity and attention to detail. Yet, at the same time, they discouraged me as they set a bar so high I knew I could never match it. I have seen a few videos you posted on your website. You would be doing a great service to the ship model making community if you could find a way to video your splicing technique. Your photos are helpful but a video would fill in the gaps.
  6. That's a very well thought out method of producing that tricky upper molding Chuck. Such a beautiful model!
  7. Randy, this is a lovely build and deserving of a log. You don't have to post any more than you want. It really is easy and when you have milling questions we'll be able to better help later in your own log.
  8. It might be helpful to know if the $2300 includes the cost of the carvings Chuck. These amazing pieces, alone, have to be quite costly!
  9. If you've ever been to La Musee de la Marine there are enormous fully riffed models from floor to ceiling. It was one of the most fabulous maritime museums I've ever been to. I wonder if Wefalck has any knowledge regarding the plans for the new museum? Hopefully they will keep most of the ship models on display.
  10. Is there anything more satisfying than when you make those last few passes with sandpaper to fair the hull? Beautiful work Mike!
  11. For someone who doesn't like painting you're damned good at it! I've not seen the floral-like GR monogram before on the stern counter before. interesting.
  12. One last Speedwell photo to finish this log. It is now encased in a display designed and built by my son whose hobby is woodworking. He built it out of Sapele mahogany and I think it compliments the model beautifully. Question - can anyone suggest a tasteful, non-intrusive method to light up the model? Whatever it is will need to rest on the acrylic top.
  13. Congratulations Marsalv on a well deserved medal. Is there a link to this exhibition to observe the many other fine models in see in your photo?
  14. For another treatise on coppering the hull of a Swan class model check Ohla's YouTube vide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WD26-IABJvc&list=PL2yU7nOqNxV_yrgdgu5zFnqVRu-RQlMKJ&index=7&ab_channel=OlhaBatchvarov She's done a beautiful job.
  15. I use Fiebings medium brown dye for dyeing Chucks blocks. I string a whole bunch together forming a necklace and dip them in the dye for about ten seconds. I place them on paper towels to blot the excess and let them dry. Finally, I polish them with a rag then coat them with a bit of Renaissance conservators wax between my fingers. Treat the Fiebings dye with great care as splatters can never be removed from the surrounding area! I think the dyed blocks look great against the black spars.
  16. Your display is as lovely as it is informative. I hope people appreciate those tailed half half-lap joints of the head-ledges and coamings.
  17. I have for sale the monograph by Jean Boudriot Bonhomme Richard 1779 in the English translated version. Still in the original sealed wrapper with the monograph and plans. I like it so much I bought it twice, a decade apart Cost of the monograph new is $145 USD but I will accept $100 plus postage. Please send me a PM if interested. Here is the description: COMPOSITION OF THE MONOGRAPHY 64-page brochure, 24 x 31 format including: - John Paul Jones US NAVY captain - Combat at Cape Flaniborough - Comments on the reconstruction of the Bonhomme Richard - Comments on the boards - Rules of rigging - Armament, artillery - Note on the works metal - Brands and flags - Painting - Presentation of models - The plans are intended to enable the framework of the building to be created. Set of 26 boards at 1/48th scale (except the sails: boards 21 to 26 at 1/64th scale) including: - Elevation, water lines, sections - Wooded elevation; structure - Layout of the frame, drawing of all the couples at the scale of 1/48 - Deck plans - Longitudinal and transverse sections - Boats, anchors, artillery, - Fittings - Mast, rigging, sails - Definition of the hull at 1 /64th.
  18. Perhaps you always start with the head because it is the most difficult feature to carve. if you make a perfect body first but mess up the head then you would have wasted a lot of time and effort. If the head is carved first there is a lot less pressure in doing everything else below.
  19. Your fine weather is affecting my enjoyment of the hobby. May it rain and snow for the next six months in Hamburg so that we can see progress on your magnificent model.
  20. Work of this caliber is what we all aspire to achieve. Please share many photos of her after a quality photoshoot so that we may better appreciate the skill displayed here.
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