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Everything posted by bhermann
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Try replacing the "'," with "." and it'll make more sense: 1.5X5 - It is just a different notation for the decimal point. Definitely not a stupid question, just a translation issue. By the way - it'd be great if you could start a build log for your work. We love to see other builders progress around these parts! Bob
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Jay, am I reading to much into this or did you put the model in a window, or out on the porch, to catch the breeze? Regardless of method, I look forward to seeing what the end result looks like. Bob
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Jay - Yeah I can see where the bearings would have an issue. I had this crazy picture in my head of them all laying side by side in a well-behaved sheet, ignoring gravity and the tendency to roll. Hmmm... maybe aquarium gravel I will be following with great interest. Bob
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Silver Soldering Tools
bhermann replied to bundybear1981's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Jason - one of the things i have found most useful is that the silver solder tends to flow toward the heat source. I learned this from someone on the old MSW. It was counter-intuitive to me, but it made getting good bonds much easier than it was when I first started, when I assumed the flame would push the solder away from it. Bob -
Sjors You are off to a good start - and it looks like the cannon is properly aligned to fire between the deadeye lanyards, always a good thing. There are some tight tolerances there. Bob
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Hmmmm... I think I get it, Sjors - wait a minute - you're describing my log!!! A post here or there with very little activity in between. I guess I am just not the gracious host you are - for example, I've never offered anyone coffee over there. In any case, my post was done with tongue firmly planted in cheek - just having a little fun, no offense intended. BTW - I did finally go back far enough to find a photo of your work (18 pages back, I think ) - it is really looking great - I will be following more closely from here on out. Bob
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JP - On the surface this sounds like a recipe for trouble. I could picture myself doing the bow section followed by the stern section, and when I got to tye midships section having a different number of strakes on either side, resulting in having to put a drop plank or stealer amidships! With the amount of planning and attention to detail you are putting into this, I'm sure you won't have any such issues. Remember this is from someone who wound up with a pretty weird looking plank in the middle of my hull and consider the source. Thanks to your detailed description and documentation of the process, I'm sure my next project will turn out much better and more life-like. thanks for putting in the time and effort it takes to provide this useful information! Bob
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Thanks for sharing your trials with the sails Jay. This type of information seems to be hard to come by. My (completely unfounded) observation. Have you tried putting more bearings into the sail while it is drying? It seems that you might get a better "belly" if there was more in there. Of course the additional weight may be too much to handle. I'm sure you will get these to where you want them, looking forward to watching the progress! Bob
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Rod Spell check isn't a feature of the Forum, it is something that needs to be enabled in your browser, and how to do it is dependent on which browser you are using. Check out this topic for some more information: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/534-spell-check-and-measurment-converter/ BTW - I agree with Russ. The stand looks really good - I like the reasoning behind using oak.. Bob
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Dave - I tracked down the wire and did the 'wrap around a dowel 10 times and measure" trick. Diameter works out to .012" for the footroopes, looking at the plan calls for .010, so not too far off. Bob
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Dave - glad to hear you caught the jumbo bail problem. I'm still not sure i have mine far enough forward to miss the traveler block, but it'll all work out somehow. On my build the footropes are wire and the stirrups are black sewing thread. I did use an individual strand pulled out of some speaker wire for this. I don't know what the gauge is, but it looks thinner than the thread, I can't locate my source material at the moment, but I'll have a look around and see if I can get more detail for you. I am not completely happy with the result. Getting the wire shaped properly - and then maintaining that shape - was a bit touchy for me. Bob
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I like the contrasting colors you are creating with the wood. This looks like it will be fun to watch... and a model we don't get to see that often. Bob
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Rod - i don't know how I missed this one on MSW-1, but she sure is looking good. I love the way the bowsprit rigging came out. Getting those footropes to sag "naturally" is a pain in the butt - you did a real fine job there. Referring back to your original post - when Neil Armstrong was walking on the Moon, I was building those paper LEM models you could get at Gulf gas stations - I must have had 10 of them around the house. When I get to my Flying Fish, I'll be sure to come to you for advice! Yours looks really nice - even after all the years. Looking forward to following this as you progress - thanks for sharing. Bob
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Jim - it's good to hear you are getting back to it. Sounds like you've had a bit of a rough road - hopefully all is turning to the good now. So no one will think I am slacking completely, I attached the block for the staysail throat halliard to the spring stay bail. I must remember to keep it on the port side when I get around to attaching the stay, as it belays to a pin on the port side of the foremast saddle. Bob
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Good to see your log resuming Dave. I remember admiring those futtock shrouds when you originally posted them... hmmm, maybe it's not too late! Bob
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Hi Dave and Floyd - I made my first step in preparing for the sails.I picked up some HB graphite pencils and a sharpener. I am not keen on folding over the edge of the sail and sewing because I think the bulge made by triple folding and sewing through it would be too much for the scale. The plan shows the edging on the sails to be a little less that 1/8", which would scale up to just under 8 inches on the real thing. I was thinking about getting some 1/4" tape and folding it over the edge so it comes up 1/8" on both sides, but Floyds post has me thinking that if I could find 1/8" iron-on seam tape and just use it on one side, that might be better. I could also use it for the reef bands. I feel a bit cheated that I have lost all reference to both your logs - in Floyds case, all three logs (the LSS, DDM, and MSW-1 versions). If either of you were to post details of your experience as a guide, say in the Masting and Rigging forum, I would read them avidly!!! (and I'm sure I wouldn't be the only person interested.) Bob
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Thanks for the info, Russ. I am going to follow the plans on this one, as I have no contradictory evidence - and few (if any) of the photos on the Nova Scotia archive pages show mast-top detail at all. I think it's safe to write this one off as a regional difference. Keith - the two materials feel very similar in thickness. The pillowcase is a little more translucent than the sheet material, another reason for me to go with the sheet. I nave considered using modelspan, or silkspan, but photos I have seen of those materials seem even more translucent. My feeling is that opaque is the better way to go here, all else being equal. Bob
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Dead Eyes (avant premiere) - moved by moderator
bhermann replied to stelios's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That is some clean looking work, Stelios, especially at that scale. Thanks for sharing. Bob -
I found the rigging for the fishermans staysail in a detail on plan sheet 5 - along with a note that describes how the sail is lowered to the deck to change sides. I guess I had the right idea, now I just need to execute on it. The throat halliard runs through a block hooked to the spring stay bail and the tack has a pendant with a fairlead that the throat halliard runs through. I think I can handle this! I may become a sailor yet! There is no indication whether the hook is moused or not. I think it would be to keep the whole thing from dropping to the deck when working the sail. Bob
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Jack - You found one of the keys early on - read, re-read, study, compare, dry-fit... all needed steps to a successful build. I'm glad to hear you've gotten some interest from your granddaughter - I'm hoping mine will come along someday... but there's time. Don't worry about your kit looking different than Jeffs - he actually built the 1:64 Model Shipways original - I'd be surprised if it looked just like the 1:100 kit re-marketed from AL Bob
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Thanks for stopping by, Blue Ensign, and for your kind words. She does have some lovely lines, sometimes I catch myself just sort of staring, and dreaming of being on board. On to the sails - I have to select my cloth. First up is a piece of fabric that was donated by a quilting friend. It has some things going for it in my book. To me, it "feels" right - like miniaturized canvas should feel. It also seems to have a tighter, more even weave. And finally, there is more than enough of it to allow for some experimentation and goofs. Second choice - an old pillowcase donated by my sister-in-law. It is softer than the first sample. It doesn't have as much "body" to it. Getting enough of it for a full set of sails would be tight with very little room for error. I suppose I could ask if she still has the other one. Finally, the two side by side: Number one is on the left. I am still thinking about the fishermans sail. I get the impression that the sail was lowered to the deck to switch sides and I think I know how the head is rigged to accomplish that. I am still a bit fuzzy on the foot - if it is indeed called the foot (the "tack" maybe?). If I can work out that detail, I may go ahead and add the sail. Bob
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That is a real effective method to solve what is real problem to do with the kit-supplied pieces. Way to think originally, Jay. Bob
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