glbarlow

27 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

prices for this little gadget vary hugely.

I've quit bookmarking your log, I'll just have to read the whole thing when I start Flirt - so many innovative ideas.

You're right about widely varying prices. Amazon has one for $54 and one that looks just like it for $132, I found one tool company selling it for $665. I've sent a note to your linked company. It cost the least there but the shipping could make the Amazon one a better deal.  They wouldn't even quote shipping, they had a pop-up screen sayingI had to send them an email to enquire about shipping.

At any rate, this is an ingenious device to solve a problem I've had since my first model, drilling holes in round objects - I'll get it one way or another. Thanks once again for the detail in your log and sharing your clever approach to these.

Now IF I could just find a source for the small sized boxwood for making these masts....  I tried your supplier, they didn't even respond to my email asking about shipping to the US.  I've lost the link, could you provide it again please. Maybe I'll call them during UK business hours and beg.

Is the angle of your rear bulkhead the same as in James’s photo of his production model? Can’t exactly tell but looks like his has a more pronounced tilt. 

Can’t go wrong. Boxwood does look good...but so does pear. So I’m officially no help except I agree holly is out. 

4 hours ago, Rustyj said:

test planking

Even your test planking is quality work. I like the deck light than the hull, the AYC looks amazing, but I have a current bias for that wood. I’m sure whatever you choose it will look great. 

54 minutes ago, DelF said:

struggle to get them done AND your cannon rigged 

I know, a lot of work. Can you cover shipping 😂😂😂😂

On 8/22/2020 at 10:46 AM, DelF said:

perfectly sharp and others are rubbish

I’m also a photographer. Not sure what you’re using, but it’s about the focus point. If using auto focus on a camera switch to single point focus and move the focus box around and on your subject, half click the shutter to get the focus then snap it. Auto focus makes a decision on what it thinks the focus is, and it’s wrong a lot.  If an iPhone touch the subject on your phone screen, it will focus there signified by a yellow box. I imagine androids have something similar.

Great work on the mast and spars. I’ll outsource mine to you. 

Well I drive an SUV, so there you go 😀 I’m trying to learn to like fishing craft, it’s a process. BE’s logs are a great way to learn to love them. 

Nice explanation of the work BE. You have some serious clothes pins there. 
 

I know you’ll turn it in to something great, but I’m not sure I like the lines of this as much as Fifie.  I likely will regret that comment about 9 pages into this log as you bring it to life. 

14 hours ago, BobG said:

Byrnes table

You’ll not regret it Bob, go for it!

13 hours ago, Gregory said:

with my Proxxon FET

Nice.  I was, or maybe still will, try this with my Proxxon mill.  What jig did you use to hold/feed the wood, can you do a little write up of your process like Bob did for tree nailing.

12 hours ago, BobG said:

moulding

I ordered both from a US based hobby store, who knew those still existed.  I appreciate the reference to this and I’m sure others will as well. I have a brass plate and have fiddled a bit with getting a decent profile, I’m sure I’d get that to work eventually. “Bob’s moulding tool” should make the job much easier and with better looking profiles.👍🏻

On 8/18/2020 at 11:08 AM, marsalv said:

some of you will condemn this proces

Who could possibly condemn such amazing work. Carving by hand is no more skill, and probably less, than mastering CNC as you have. 

27 minutes ago, BobG said:

quite a few online sites

Ordered.  Hope they’ll work on my small wood.  Thanks for the suggestion. 

Thanks for the explanation Bob. I put some planks on my broken frame and will see how it goes and then decide. 
 

That scraper looks great. Thanks for sharing that.  
 

Wow. Where did you get that!?

25 minutes ago, SpyGlass said:

not a trace of CA

😁

I wish I had a stash of boxwood and holly. Do you have a source or still working off a supply from Jeff😄
 

I think holly makes for a great deck, but both AYC or boxwood will make a nice contrast with the hull. You are an inspiration with this model. 

1 minute ago, Chuck said:

Run more tests before you even touch the model.  

Thanks for the input Chuck.  I'll slap a few planks on my broken frame and do a lot more tests before committing for real.  If I can't get a good look with the fishing line I'm just going to leave it as is.  The poly helped the joints stand out pretty well.  I'm happy with my result as it stands but want to give every new technique a try.  Finally a new purpose for my busted frame.

2 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

with two frames

I thought of using it for some practice, but I get too depressed every time I look at it. It was quite traumatic when it fell to the floor and pretty much exploded. I only keep it visible to remind myself to be careful.

11 minutes ago, Chuck Seiler said:

I prefer boxwood, but who can afford/obtain that anymore, eh?  I have had some success with beech, but Alaskan Yellow Cedar is my new go-to.

I'd be happy to buy boxwood, but I can not find it anywhere (except in my Shipwright version of Flirt). I really like the yellow cedar.

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

It would be a real shame to ruin that with an odd treenailing job.

I Completely agree with this.  Thanks for weighing in Chuck.  I'm not that excited about doing it for this very reason, but don't want to let down the Cheerful team by ignoring a challenge.

I have and tried the black monofilament on a different board. I had two problems. I don't have or know what the right tool is to cut it flush, my miniature side cutters left a light protrusion. And I don't know how best to glue it in without leaving a stain/residue of glue - especially on a mass scale. As I was doing it (including on the top row of the sample board show) the both the brown and black filament kept coming out.

FYI, the test board in the photo is with a #78 bit on 3/16th planks. I think when I cropped in tight for the image to use after taking the photo it threw off the scale. In reality they are close to the ones on the stem and keel.  It's also possible that I over-poked with the Awl and/or the pencil. I want to do it right, but doing that many - especially if the butt joint only is a bad idea - I'm ok not doing it. Though that would exclude me from the "real" Cheerful group and I'd be removed from the team bulletin board 😄

Maybe this not the opportunity for by first ever tree-nailing job.

1 hour ago, ASAT said:

would boxwood work better for the moulding

Thanks Lou.

That's the right idea. Chuck sent me some boxwood strips, I haven't tried them yet - the cedar was definitely shredding when cut down to 1/16 x 1/32. The challenge is the knee, I need to get a triangular piece of boxwood (actually multiple ones since I'll mess up the first three) for the knee at the bow.

30 minutes ago, Chuck Seiler said:

One problem I see is that you appear to be using walnut as your outer planking. 

Are you replying to me or to Sheerline?  I'm using Alaskan Yellow Cedar on Cheerful.  I was also successful using this technique on Lady Nelson using the kit supplied walnut though I agree a kit with brittle wood of any type might find it difficult.

Thanks for the compliments, I appreciate your taking the time.  

33 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

my skills aren't quite ready to be stretched

I follow your Alert, I’m sure you can pull off Cheerful. Maybe like me you’ll just have to do the same plank 3 times. 😂

15 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

I cut the profile into a 2mm thick old brass hinge and practiced on a piece of AYC. I found a thinner scraper tended to dig in!

That’s exactly what I’m finding. I just bought some thicker brass, I need to get the right profile cut in it. 

I’m a ardent fan of Chuck’s plank bending approach, I try to describe it in some detail in my Finished Lady Nelson And underway Cheerful logs, linked in my signature below.

I see you have tick marks already so I’m sure you know the planks likely need to be tapered for the same number to fit at the bow as fit at the waist.

It being a kit it’s hard to understand why there is such a big gap at the stern for the same number of of planks as at the waist, but the bottom line is you have to fill the space. Here again the tick marks should show you the width needed. If it takes 5 it takes 5, just don’t put them all together. Did you have the same issue with the first planking?