glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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I don’t quite understand the need for some to doubt or question the details or overall accuracy of Chris’ designs. Time and again he has demonstrated the work he puts in to his models being historically relevant and accurate to the degree he can make them based on the research information available. I’d think we’d all be pleased that is offering a unusual model like this, properly named, yacht based on an actual NMM available draft and not quibble over things that simply don’t matter. It’s.a.model. That said, I’m also not a fan of the flat ring bolts or belaying pins, mostly because they are flat. I’ll simply find or make my own alternatives.- 117 replies
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I’ve done hundreds of these just this way. Perfect way to do them. I do them with the help of third hands like Derek’s (and my new) Quad hands. It’s also how I seize blocks and hooks.
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I’d match the color of the rope and seizing, the black is going to stand out a lot. Definitely don’t worry about blackening, easy to touch up with a flat paint like Admiralty Ironwood Black and 10/0 brush.
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I must be sick then. I have to stop every once in a while to clean up and reorganize otherwise I’m just looking all over for the tool buried in the rumble.
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You’re doing nice work on your cutter, I’m sure the skills learned will transfer to Winnie. Just remember it’s single planked so the work will require patience as I’ve learned on Cheerful.
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I’ve got some other work in mind as well, now that you’ve brought it up maybe some margin planks 😂🤣
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I have a 25 year old model made entirely with CA other than bulkheads to frame. It’s fine. More impressive and a good way to put that fiction to an end is 25 year old CA made musical instruments that take far more abuse than a model on a shelf are still holding up.
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The wavy thing is a common issue, it comes from either too much soaking or not forming it on a shaper of some sort. It’s not a big deal and as you noted can be resolved with sanding later. As Derek so noted, all you want from the first planking is a smooth hull for your second planking. However it is a great time to practice the bending, tapering, and bevel is you’ll need to do. I cover this a bit in both my Lady Nelson and Cheerful log. That in addition to chucks videos and .pdfs cover my highly recommended approach. Headline, it involves using CA and no water, vs. nails, clamps, and longer drying PVA. Enjoy the process!
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The very advice I would give. Well said.
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—I accidentally deleted this post, reposting just to put a cap on the tree nail discussion. —- After a lot of contemplation and with the input and encouragement from many of you I’ve made the decision NOT to tree-nail. I like the look of my hull as it is. I put these couple of rows on my broken hull, put on some WOP yesterday with the intent to practice practice today. I sat there looked at it for a while and said - No thanks, moving on. And so I
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So many clever designs in this model, Chris finds the way to show a detailed model everyone can build, regardless of skill level, and enjoy doing it.
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Instructive as always. I don’t see a scenario where there is too much detail. I’m going to add the Proxxon lathe to my bench as I get closer to Cheerful’s mast and spars. I did the ships boat for Speedy, they are far harder for me to plank than a ship. It was not fun.
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I always do as much of the rigging as I can off the ship. My masts end up looking like a string filled mess before they go on the ship, but to me it’s so worth it. Many of the connections, knots, blocks, etc. and especially seizing would be sooo much harder to do reaching on the ship. Your new quad hands with the long extensions would make It somewhat easier, but personally I don’t see an upside doing all that with the masts mounted. I don’t glue the lines until everything is properly tension then they get a light touch of watered down PVA with a paint brush. That’s me anyway.
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I assume this is one of challenges of the US and the UK sharing English as a common language when you say Chamfer. So I did a l a quick Google search: “A chamfer is a transitional edge between two faces of an object. It is often created at a 45° angle between two adjoining right-angled faces. Bevel - the angle that one surface or line makes with another when they are not at right angles. A ‘chamfer’ may sometimes be regarded as a type of ‘bevel,’ and the terms are often used interchangeably.“ So I guess Americans say bevel, English say chamfer.
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The challenge is 1/32 thickness and the matching “ears” at the bow. I’m sure I’ll sort it out. I appreciate everyone’s input
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I've ordered them, they'll be here Wednesday and then I'll see how it goes. I have brass plate (I've got a hacksaw blade and a razor too I can try) I've cut profiles with my files, but have not got that right yet. I'll definitely experiment with all the options to figure out what works. Thanks for the note, not happy to hear the scrapers didn't work for you, they seem like such a good option. I think anything on 1/32 thick wood is going to be a fun challenge.
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May I suggest you should've started that sooner so all the planks at the bow were more or less the same width, just as they are the same width at midships, it creates a more natural look. I'd think you'll also need to do some plank bending to fit the curve. I've recommended Chuck's method in the past and I recall others have offered other methods, whichever you choose the sooner you start that the better. Don't over-bevel the top edges, it doesn't take much, just softening the corner is enough.If you do it all right you won't need the filler 😄
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I’m guessing you did much of the fairing “off ship?” I know Chris recommends doing this. But if I’m right the lesson learned is other than a start the best place to fair bulkheads is installed on the frame. Otherwise I’m noT sure how that one is off by that much.
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Improvise, Adapt, Overcome is my creed.
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Shims are our friend
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Pretty sure you need taper in those planks at the bow , full size planks won’t fit all the way down the bow. Have you checked out Delk’s Speedy build for comparison?
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Well, I guess that saves me an international call. That's too bad, whatever CITES is, its not good for me. Thanks for sharing this, I missed that entirely.
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I've quit bookmarking your log, I'll just have to read the whole thing when I start Flirt - so many innovative ideas. You're right about widely varying prices. Amazon has one for $54 and one that looks just like it for $132, I found one tool company selling it for $665. I've sent a note to your linked company. It cost the least there but the shipping could make the Amazon one a better deal. They wouldn't even quote shipping, they had a pop-up screen sayingI had to send them an email to enquire about shipping. At any rate, this is an ingenious device to solve a problem I've had since my first model, drilling holes in round objects - I'll get it one way or another. Thanks once again for the detail in your log and sharing your clever approach to these. Now IF I could just find a source for the small sized boxwood for making these masts.... I tried your supplier, they didn't even respond to my email asking about shipping to the US. I've lost the link, could you provide it again please. Maybe I'll call them during UK business hours and beg.
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