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glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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I played around a lot with that plank. It’s a challenge to get it right for sure. -
It does get a bit tricky at this point, your eyes seem to tell you one thing but that doesn't correspond to the tick marks. You really have to trust the marks, I found trimming based on the second bulkhead vs. at the bow worked better, plus constantly rechecking the remaining distance. Your planking is looking great, nice and tight.
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My Cheerful coat has lots of coats. Apply it thin, hence the wipe on, it can take as long as 36-48 hours to fully dry. At any time sand it with 400 grit and apply a second coat. Generally 2 coats, but more doesn’t hurt. Just don’t let it gunk up when you apply it. Wipe on, wipe off. It’s great stuff. Doing some practice runs to get a feel for it off ship is an excellent plan.
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Hope everything works out and you’re better soon.
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You can get that second plane with your iron. Clamp one end of the plank to your table and gently twist it while running the iron along the board, like “air ironing.” I did this a lot on my Cheerful, it’s less precise but it gets the job done. Just be careful not to iron your plank holding hand ...he said from experience... I just wet the board with my finger dipped in water. edit...what I said is essentially what BE described
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Not at all expensive in the US. I also use water based in some applications. I have no problem with it, but the WOP is better.
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Minwax Satin Wipe on Poly. Ronseal is a UK thing, not used in the US. I think Home Depot may have a different brand, doesn’t matter, the Wipe On Poly Satin is the key thing. Wipe On is different than other varathanes. It will specifically say Wipe On Poly on the can. It by far is the modelers choice.
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Your first 2nd planking looks great, nice job! The common approach used by many modelers on this forum and the one I use is Satin (not Gloss) Wipe On Poly. It seals, looks great, and can be painted over or applied over paint. Your posts don’t indicate where your from, WOP is commonly available in the US, any hardware store has it. There is a UK version, but I don’t recall what it’s called.
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I use Admiralty Paints, I like it so much I order it from a store in the UK as I haven’t found a US source for it. Humbrol also seems popular. I went wit Golden Paints for the red on Cheerful, because for it I wanted, really red. I dip the brush in the paint, it a drop falls off it quickly when I pull it out then a second drop slowly forms that’s when I have it thinned enough. Your work is very crisp, nicely done.
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I recently bought a lathe I don’t know how to use yet, up to now I’ve used your same method for years. You’ve done it well, your masts and spars look great as does your serving. I don’t know how Chris describes it in the instructions but typically shrouds are a doubled, one line from dead eye, up around mast, back down to the next dead eye then that now double line seized at the mast. Maybe I’m missing something.
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Creative work, nice adding these details.
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Ships at Trafalgar - what kits are available?
glbarlow replied to bruce d's topic in Wood ship model kits
I'd think the market for that is very very small. I had three choices, including the figureheads, when building Vanguard. I am quite certain I'd never build it again just for a different name on the stern and figurehead on the bow, though I was tempted the first time to use the elephant figurehead, it was kinda cool. -
Another fine work. Still think you need fish in the hold, each one hand carved 🤣
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I’ve read all of both series, both were great. I have both sets of books on the shelf in my workshop.
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Ships at Trafalgar - what kits are available?
glbarlow replied to bruce d's topic in Wood ship model kits
I’ve always wondered why HMS Africa was so out of position -
I appreciate and thank you all for the likes and kind comments. Always nice to read and inspiration to keep moving forward with the log.
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I hope you both go for it, I don’t regret it a bit (well there has been a moment or two, but I got over it, lol). With the monograph, mini and starter kits, some good build logs, and Chuck’s ready advice you have all you need. I write my log with the hope of inspiring/helping someone to build Cheerful, so I hope you do.
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Your hull looks great, nice work.
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I’m thinking they should replace the box photos with yours...
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There was some of that, but there was no way forward until I sorted it out. I did go off and make a few cannons as a delaying move 😁 I appreciate that, like you I try to be helpful to others as I’ve been helped so many times on this forum. Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments and the likes!
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Thanks for the tip on blades. I buy the #11s by the hundred and change them frequently. I should look for a source for the SM blades, I know others use them as well. I buy Excel blades, I find them sharper and last longer than Exacto. I agree about this being a tricky step, it required some thinking and a slow pace to sort out.
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Thanks Rusty, the dividers came from your Winnie log, so thank you. It is kind of fun when I figure it out.
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He’s reflective, contemplating what’s next 🤣 Thank you for those comments. I hope I’m providing detail that will help others take on the challenge. I’ve seen your work, you can build Cheerful.
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