Jump to content

glbarlow

NRG Member
  • Posts

    4,000
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. 2nd planking, tapering is important as is plank bending. Follow Chucks video you’ll be fine. Start at the top and work your way down about a third of the way. Then go to the bottom and do the bottom couple coming up 2-3 planks then go back up to the top and finish coming down. Why? Because if you’re not perfect and have to do some filling in you’ll be doing it in a place that can’t be seen once painted and mounted.
  2. Chuck has sheets cut especially for ripping planks. I learned to rip my own, it's quite rewarding. I don't think you're going to find sources in the US for any pre-ripped planks anymore and especially not Alaskan Cedar, I believe it's a bit of a Syren specialty. It's a topic that's been around for awhile, the US sources simply couldn't make a go of it. The Lumberyard is not a good source for wood despite the name in my experience. I ordered boxwood from there is was so bad I sent it back. There are some European sources for maple and a few other woods, but definitely not Alaskan Cedar.
  3. This, as you’ll read in the log, is why I drill those holes at the very beginning of the build. The first time my model set on this board was when it was nothing but a keel, the second time when it was just a skeletal frame. The third time was for these photos. I don’t use glue, I epoxy the pedestals and the rod inside them to the base, then epoxy the ship to the rod and pedestals when the ship is ready for rigging. I also drill so the rods go past the keel into the frame, 25mm into the ship in Cheerful’s case. I will admit a certain tension drilling those holes, but it’s offset and much easier by being done early in the process. I wouldn’t want to be holding a completed model in my hand upside down doing it. I have 9 models sitting around my house, every one was mounted this same way. So far they are still tight to their boards, though admittedly I don’t sling them around to test their soundness. I also add a brass plaque to the board with the ship’s and my name along with the completion year, just in case I forget any of those three things😁.
  4. The pedestals and the mounting board (as unfinished walnut which I sanded and applied WOP) both came from modelexpo.com. They didn’t fit the width of Cheerful’s keel however. I had to spend some time with my Dremel to widen the slots. You can also see I used two different height pedestals with the way Cheerful lays out. Hope that helps.
  5. I don't think I could get through the fairing with tall the little steps before I fell off my chair. I'm looking forward to see your build to see how the hull comes out. It certainly is a different model
  6. I’m always amazed by the small details you add, and the creative ways you come up with to add them. I knew I was saving all those old Pegasus parts for a reason.
  7. Thank you. It may get another coat before I’m done. I’m glad I didn’t tree nail it and the WOP seeping between the seams does a nice job of distinguishing the planking runs. I came to like the little bit of variation in the wood color. The only thing Annapolis would want with it is target practice, but it’s a nice thought. 😁
  8. The poly does transform the cedar, I’ve lost track of how many coats it has at this point.
  9. Thanks guys! I thought I’d get my good camera and flash gear out for today, it does beat iPhone on the messy workbench photos for a change. I haven’t exercised my other hobby in a while.
  10. You have it, but I recall it goes by a different name, unfortunately I don’t recall what that is. It’s clear satin polyurethane if that helps.
  11. Generally hulls aren’t stained. They are either partially painted or have wipe on poly applied. Take a look around the sire too see. But again, it’s your model to make what you want of. It’s about enjoying your work, that’s all that matters.
  12. Thank you everyone. I really appreciate the kind words, comments and likes.
  13. Congratulations on the new release - I'm going to hold out for Sphynx but wish you the best on orders for this new and different model. I doubt there is anything like it out there, here's hoping it's a big hit!
  14. After 5 months of work I’ve completed my Cheerful’s hull. I thought I’d pause a minute and share a few photos (sitting temporarily on its future base) before moving on to the deck. I’ve written in this log about the many things I’ve learned from this semi-scratch build, so many things I’d never done before. I have many more such challenges ahead, I’m looking forward to what's next. Thank you for all the likes, follows, and comments, I appreciate them all. The fun continues.
  15. Seems like that’s a UK thing not a US one. I buy lots of modeling related stuff from the UK and have none of that.
  16. It’s not something I’d do, but that doesn’t matter. This hobby is about yo and your model. You can ask and get input but at the end of the day it’s your choice and your decision. ...but maybe sanding off was a good idea🤪😂🤣
  17. Many of us already have one, plus Jim Byrnes deserves full retail for providing such a superior product.
  18. The quality of the boxwood I bought a while back from the Lumberyard was so bad I sent it back. Hope you have better luck.
  19. I’m buying billets of precut thickness and ripping what I need with my Byrnes saw. It’s kind of rewarding to mill your own. But even the billets are getting harder to find. You won’t regret buying the saw, it’s a great tool for more than milling planks.
×
×
  • Create New...