glbarlow

Congratulations and well done James, very cool!

Looking nice, glad you’re returning to the bench.

I’ve had mine since 2008, great tool. next up is the Proxxon mill, my third favorite tool after the sander and the saw. Then of course there is the thickness sander…

There’s clearly patience and skill displayed in this step.

Use black annealed 24 gauge wire, i prefer Hilmans found on Amazon. A number 61 drill bit is the proper size for a split ring at 1:48 scale, I’m sure there is a 1:64 equivalent. Check out one of my recent Winchelsea posts for how I make them. The requirement for cutting them is a high quality (the normal modelers wire snips or regular wire cutters won’t do) flush cut wire cutter. The best source for these are jewelry making websites like Rio Grande I like this particular flush cutter found Here on Amazon. Most cutters smash the wire, these provide a clean cut. Just cut through the spiral of wire a few at a time, there will be a little waste with each first cut, but with a little practice you’ll have just what you need. That same wire can be used to make eyelets, I showed how I do that in my Winchelsea build log as well. Here’s the result:

It is a chunky thing. I guess that’s what a razee looks like. Seems it would be heavy at the stern, but it worked. Good looking infrastructure.

Thank you for the comment, glad it was of help. Enjoy your build!

Thank you! That is so true. I was thinking about that, how way back when I spent all that time on aligning stern frames ad fitting those sills using the frame blocks. The windows at the stage just dropped into place.

Nice hinges!

Welcome to the “I Faired a Winnie” club. You’ve won a large bottle of Advil and a trip to the chiropractor🤣

A reference build for all who follow!

There is no reason to edge glue any planking, especially on the deck. I’ll suggest a different experiment ,try medium gel CA, not the thin stuff, and just on the bottom of the plank. I suggest you taper with a straight metal edge and a #11 blade, you’ll get a much cleaner edge. Many of us have done it successfully with this method, just takes a little practice. As Chuck describes a #2 pencil on only one edge of facing planks is all you need for caulking. I used CA on the hull planking, it came out ok. However I used ordinary white PVA for the deck using scrap planks as a deck clamp, photos on my log. I know you like to go your own way, but there’s a lot to learn from others.

Thank you BE, very kind of you. However, your work is no anti climax, I’ve followed your work for years. Your Cheerful log was one of my main go-tos as I built mine a few years ago.

Thank you for the kind words. I hope my log helps others as I’ve so often been helped myself.

Thank you Rusty, high praise from someone who’s work I’ve admired for years.

This is a step you want to get right or you’ll be chasing it all the way through planking. They don’t follow the waterline but the sheer of the deck, they aren’t square as a result. I would have been lost without the reference lines, but depending on the bulkhead could be a little off. You’ll figure it out, and later as you’re planking, will be glad you did. Have fun.

Thank you for the kind words!

Transom & Stern Near Complete A short update. The windows (or lights) have been sitting on my padded shelf for a long time, waiting for this moment. There is nothing special about installing them, all the readiness work in creating, measuring, and fitting their frames was done long ago with the installation of the stern frames and later with the transom and its associated work. The challenge of this task was to install the very nicely scaled, but as a consequence very fragile, boxwood windows without breaking them using the very minimum of PVA glue. Much of the frame shows of course, so only a very small amount of glue in the very edge of the corners works. Following a lot of hold my breath moments, well more specifically five such moments, and without breaking anything next up was the acetate used as window glass. For this I used Liquitex Acyrilic Matt Medium. It takes little to hold the acetate and the medium dries clear, still I applied it only to the corners of the window. Finally I added the sills below the windows to complete the transom interior. Using a ¼ by 1/32 strip of Yellow Cedar these require some work matching up the angles and lengths required. I did all the cutting and fitting before the windows were added to have more working room and less stress working around installed windows. Only minor adjustments, with WOP added before installing, were needed for the final fitting. And with that my transom and stern are complete for now. There is a railing to add to top off the stern frames later in the build (I’ve already used the template to cut these to the proper height), below that rail the work is done. Thanks for stopping by, your likes and comments always appreciated. I’m off to continue Chapter 5.

The first photo of strings weighted with nuts I thought what is that, then I saw how it became a woven mouse that would be the envy of a full size ship. The simple but perfect jig for aligning deadeyes that never occurred to me. The precision of the seizings and splices, the quality of the blocks. Wow, the creative mind and master skill displayed with this model. Incredible. Which museum gets the completed work?

I have that same mouse but no way would I have trusted myself to use it to fair Winchelsea, good for you making it work. I did mine all by hand, it took a week. Your Indy is well on its way, nice!

Interesting that CMB lists them as “temporarily unavailable”. 😩

I appreciate the input and suggestions, thank you. I’ll go with @Chuck design and research on the thickness at 1/64. Very odd to me that what I simply ordered on Amazon just a couple of years ago appears to be no longer commercially available. I was hoping someone knew of an obscure hobby shop that might have a supply.

Wow, that looks tricky. Nicely done.

I’m not sure I want to cut metal with my blade…

Yes, but I’m not going to cut metal with the blade. 1/64 would just curl.