glbarlow

So intricate and detailed. Just incredible work. Always enjoy seeing your progress and hoping mine turns out near as well.

They go on the top of the completed planking as the plans show. Painted similar to the transom they are largely decorative. I’ve alway called them, perhaps incorrectly, fashion pieces since they’re fungi’s to look pretty.

Can you share any plans or diagrams for the stand? I’m not exactly sure how to measure out the three pieces for the cradle. I have a cabinet making friend to make a nice base Not that I need it anytime soon.

That’s very sad news. Bob was a fine modeler and one of the Winnie builds I often referenced. He was always pleasant to chat with about our respective progress. Rest in Peace.

Not that I’m anywhere close, but I have the same thought about rope on the ships wheel. I know it would look good, but so would breech ropes on cannons and I’m not doing that. My current thinking is rope free is rope free. But who know when I get to this point sometime this decade.

Looks really nice. Well done! Your bulwarks painting is flawless!

PVA diluted about 50:50 with distilled water, put that in the gap with a pin trying to contain the glue in the gap as much as possible, add sawdust from the same wood you’re using, try to pack it in with a flat tool. Neither the glue or the sawdust has to be a perfect fit, just minimized as much as practical. Let it dry thoroughly then lightly sand with 320, 400, 600 sandpaper until nothing is on the surrounding wood, just in the gap. Also being careful not to over-sand and creating a gouge. It’s a bit of an acquired skill, but done well it can lead to virtually invisible fills. I don’t use wood stains, but it does take Wipe On Poly just fine. This is all in reference to small gaps, large gaps I don’t know.

You shouldn’t need any stealers, between ¼ and 5/16 planks should be able to cover it. How will you finish the stern planks at the counter, the monograph has them fitted behind the counter, yours are extending past it?

My opinion, unfounded on historical accuracy whatever that might be, is any combination of the usual French Blue, red and yellow ochre, white, and black you like. The Captain has some leeway to do as he chooses.

I did apologize to a yellow cedar tree on our trip to Alaska for the amount of its brother I used planking Winchelsea. 😁

Creative solutions, as always. Nice!

For a direct answer to your question: Not only for ratlines but for all rigging I use White PVA diluted with distilled water to about a 50:50 mix. I also use mat medium clear acyrillic in some cases, both dry near invisible. I’m a fan of CA for other purposes in model building, but not on rigging.

Very descriptive, I’m sure I will thank you when I get to this point.

I export from Adobe Lightroom to a “boat” preset that scales my photos to 1500 pixels on the long edge. Before exporting I crop them to show I want to show to eliminate wasted space. At least this is what works for me. My post have text supported by photos and vice versa. My opinion is too much of one without the other is less interesting or difficult to follow.

No

Don’t think you have much to worry about for USA vs. England. Soccer doesn’t attract our best athletes, we’ll never go far against the world’s best. I played in high school while in Germany and college and love the game, I’ll enjoy the World Cup, but the US couldn’t even get past Wales. Your Cheerful looks great.

My three Veritas mini-chisels are among my favorite and most frequently used tools, especially as I now know how to keep them sharp. I also really enjoy my Proxxon mill and use it a lot. That’s not to say I could use either to successfully complete this particular task.

Happy birthday Chris!

Chuck’s method does not involve any soaking, it is heat from a travel iron or hot air on dry wood. It is easy to bend wood against its grain using his method, I do it all the time and often twist it after I’ve bent it for stern planks. One point is that you “bend the wrong way” by bending the wood down for it to then curve up on the bow. You absolutely need to taper the wood, every strake should run from the bow to the stern,. So I use a metal ruler and a #11 blade to taper following the lining of the hull or simple math of how many full planks fit midships and the height available at the bow. You need a bending station and the method Allan provided in Chuck’s video, push pins won’t work. First soaking the wood is just asking it to warp and curl. All that said I don’t know sapelli or its characteristics. I have bent 1mm Boxwood, Alaskan Yellow Cedar, and even kit walnut planks that were closer to .5 - 75mm but your wood looks very thin, as someone mentioned like bending paper. One option is to replace that wood with something more common and thicker. The small cost of doing that may be worth the frustration of what you’re experiencing. Good work on learning to do it right. Planking is a skill learned only through experience. There are so many opinions and variations on techniques and what can and can’t be done, it is easy to get mentally twisted on trying to sort out what to do. I used to soak and force planks into place, I’m now fully a disciple of Chuck’s dry heat bending method. My build logs show how I’ve applied it to my models. Every plank it’s own project. The thin sapelli is one thing, choosing one technique and sticking with it is the most important step, then sticking with it. It pays off for a lifetime of modelling, so hang in there, it will come.

Look at photos of HMS Victory, lots of paint, not much unpainted. All stains and natural wood are modelers choice, but not likely accurate. Personally I’m not a fan of wood stains on a ship model, but that’s just me. I do like natural wood with a WOP finish matched up with other painted parts. Do what makes you happy.

I’m a huge fan of the Proxxon mill, for me it proved to be an essential tool building Cheerful. You’re doing a great job with the model, Your deck furniture is outstanding!

Nice tone to your Granado, you’re definitely making it yours. I lose little parts all the time, even in my self contained room. I’ve resorted to sweeping the floor then searching in the dust pile I’ve swept up, that’s after crawling around on the floor with a flashlight. The things we do.

Really meticulous work, impressive patience required I’m sure!

Pristine work as is your standard. The tone of the wood is just remarkable!

It is kind of a kick to know it’s there