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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. glbarlow
    Amazing cabinet work on the panel, well done!
  2. glbarlow
    If Jim Byrnes it I know it’s great. The variable speed and reverse direction I know would come in handy, especially me as a left hander. Thanks for the review and the heads up.
  3. glbarlow
    Very clever, I’d never have thought of that. Something else to add to my Derek acquired knowledge database.
  4. glbarlow
    Likely the simpler solution is just adding balsa fillers between the bulkheads you have, assuming the reason is to aid in planking. Since you should fair the bulkheads the size of an additional one would take care of itself in the fairing process.
  5. glbarlow
    Enjoy!
  6. glbarlow
    Exactly!
  7. glbarlow
    We’ve done this before, I supplied pricing that clearly demonstrated that the $16 can of Wipe On Poly is cheaper than buying two products, especially given the extra chore of determining the mix ratio. I’m quite comfortable that WOP is not sold in Europe due to their being more sophisticated, that is also just silly. The silly you reference is the commentary on why WOP is so inferior when in fact it isn’t. It’s ok to use shellac, if that is your choice. Just because it is your choice is no reason to denigrate any product other than that. i also don’t accept the equally silly comment that WOP is used by the unskilled. In fact just slathering it on with a rag is not how it’s properly done. Let’s compare my WOP models against your shellacked ones.
  8. glbarlow
    I’m quite comfortable with wipe-on Poly and get a chuckle from those that oppose it for what consider the silliest of reasons. I have 20 year old models that look the same as the day after I applied it. straight up Polyurethane I’m sure is a whole different thing I’d imagine. Never tried shellac.
  9. glbarlow
    The attachment above is an interesting read, it answers a lot of questions and dispels a lot of conjecture.
  10. glbarlow
    Fun to watch your build of the Syren stove, you always add such clever mods. Mine for Winchelsea is still far in the future.
  11. glbarlow
    Best wishes on a successful surgery and good health!
  12. glbarlow
    I never use what the glue comes in, too unwieldy. Bob Smith Industries also has these Applicators I’m sure they are available from other sources. “There are significant differences in adhesive performance among the various cyanoacrylate products.“ From simple web search. Both Smith Industries and Gorilla manufacturer their CA products. Bob Smith Industries has 8-9 different variations including an odorless version. As mentioned other companies, generally hobby stores, put their name, with permission, on BSI’s products. So many glue threads, so many opinions….🤣 I know what works for me.
  13. glbarlow
    Opportunity to crush the keel if leave raised to high or a crushed model if too loose. One of my vices is buying too many vises 😂
  14. glbarlow
    Nice looking work!
  15. glbarlow
    Maybe for a kit at this level engraved decks aren’t necessary. I’d plank the deck myself and would rather see quality wood strips rather than an engraved deck I wouldn’t use.
  16. glbarlow
    Welcome to the club, I’ve been enjoying my build for almost a year now. I look forward to following yours. It is correct the false keel is a piece (actually three identical pieces given the length needed) you need to mill. Just simple pieces the size instructed in the monograph.
  17. glbarlow
    The color just pops, it looks great. Lovely and neat work as always Rusty. Very nice!
  18. glbarlow
    Amazon sells Smith Industries CA
  19. glbarlow
    Good note, thanks. They also have an odorless version.
  20. glbarlow
    I have built a lot of models using CA, some are 20 years old, there’s nothing wrong with it used correctly. Take a look at the planking on my current build, HMS Winchelsea, it was all done with CA. However, not all CA products are created equal, I only use Smith Industries CA. Local hardware store superglue isn’t the best choice. If you’re at the point of needing acetone you used way too much. I use multiple glues depending on the stage of the build and task involve. Titebond is great for the frame, not the best for smaller, tighter work. I use a lot of white PVA glue, but I get a quality wood working product, I wouldn’t trust Elmers on my models. I would never use a wood stain on a model, I prefer the natural look of the wood with a few coats of Wipe On Poly. There are many many ‘glue’ threads on this forum, everyone has an opinion. CA seems to create strong opinions in some, always amuses me to read the ‘never CA’ crowd comments. Do a search on it if you want more opinions. I use what works best for me.
  21. glbarlow
    I made four. the hard way for my Vanguard. It’s doable without the resin hull cheat, just not all that fun. I think yours look fine as is. You’ve captured the wood color nicely.
  22. glbarlow
    The boats are more difficult to construct than the ship, for me anyway. Yours looks just fine. I made the decision early not to include it on Flirt and Winchelsea.
  23. glbarlow
    This is really quite amazing. As both a photographer and a modeler I really appreciate both aspects of your work in bringing this to life. I also enjoyed the narrative describing the different boats. Having published a few photo books I understand the significant cost involved and so appreciate your making it available to a wide audience via .pdf. Aside from stunning models and graphic work the best part of it all for me is the collaborative work of father and son. Well done!
  24. glbarlow
    How’s your planking coming along?
  25. glbarlow
    How’s your planking coming along?

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