glbarlow

Very descriptive, I’m sure I will thank you when I get to this point.

I export from Adobe Lightroom to a “boat” preset that scales my photos to 1500 pixels on the long edge. Before exporting I crop them to show I want to show to eliminate wasted space. At least this is what works for me. My post have text supported by photos and vice versa. My opinion is too much of one without the other is less interesting or difficult to follow.

No

Don’t think you have much to worry about for USA vs. England. Soccer doesn’t attract our best athletes, we’ll never go far against the world’s best. I played in high school while in Germany and college and love the game, I’ll enjoy the World Cup, but the US couldn’t even get past Wales. Your Cheerful looks great.

My three Veritas mini-chisels are among my favorite and most frequently used tools, especially as I now know how to keep them sharp. I also really enjoy my Proxxon mill and use it a lot. That’s not to say I could use either to successfully complete this particular task.

Happy birthday Chris!

Chuck’s method does not involve any soaking, it is heat from a travel iron or hot air on dry wood. It is easy to bend wood against its grain using his method, I do it all the time and often twist it after I’ve bent it for stern planks. One point is that you “bend the wrong way” by bending the wood down for it to then curve up on the bow. You absolutely need to taper the wood, every strake should run from the bow to the stern,. So I use a metal ruler and a #11 blade to taper following the lining of the hull or simple math of how many full planks fit midships and the height available at the bow. You need a bending station and the method Allan provided in Chuck’s video, push pins won’t work. First soaking the wood is just asking it to warp and curl. All that said I don’t know sapelli or its characteristics. I have bent 1mm Boxwood, Alaskan Yellow Cedar, and even kit walnut planks that were closer to .5 - 75mm but your wood looks very thin, as someone mentioned like bending paper. One option is to replace that wood with something more common and thicker. The small cost of doing that may be worth the frustration of what you’re experiencing. Good work on learning to do it right. Planking is a skill learned only through experience. There are so many opinions and variations on techniques and what can and can’t be done, it is easy to get mentally twisted on trying to sort out what to do. I used to soak and force planks into place, I’m now fully a disciple of Chuck’s dry heat bending method. My build logs show how I’ve applied it to my models. Every plank it’s own project. The thin sapelli is one thing, choosing one technique and sticking with it is the most important step, then sticking with it. It pays off for a lifetime of modelling, so hang in there, it will come.

Look at photos of HMS Victory, lots of paint, not much unpainted. All stains and natural wood are modelers choice, but not likely accurate. Personally I’m not a fan of wood stains on a ship model, but that’s just me. I do like natural wood with a WOP finish matched up with other painted parts. Do what makes you happy.

I’m a huge fan of the Proxxon mill, for me it proved to be an essential tool building Cheerful. You’re doing a great job with the model, Your deck furniture is outstanding!

Nice tone to your Granado, you’re definitely making it yours. I lose little parts all the time, even in my self contained room. I’ve resorted to sweeping the floor then searching in the dust pile I’ve swept up, that’s after crawling around on the floor with a flashlight. The things we do.

Really meticulous work, impressive patience required I’m sure!

Pristine work as is your standard. The tone of the wood is just remarkable!

It is kind of a kick to know it’s there

There are plenty to choose from, hope I help a little. Now you need to pick up the pace and pas me again 😁

Not entirely mine, I likely saw it somewhere on the forum. Still a cool idea.

I turned it upside down to shake all that out. It’s when something later drops in the open hatches that I’ll also never see again 😁

My deck is faired and ready for the false deck to be added Not before I drop this scroll, with a message I wrote to the future, into the hold below hopefully never to be seen again.

Well, it’s a little short of perfection, but Thank You for saying so. I do try.

So in 2-3 years I know what I’m doing after my Winnie is complete, meanwhile I’ll enjoy the view. Of my favorite models is my Fair American, also a POF planked from the wales up, this should be fun.

Make a little jig for the entry steps. A simple L or T. Set the first step, generally the wales can be your guide for it. The long side of the jig is the spacing between steps, the short side lines up the side edge. Glue on one at a time, I use CA and had no problem, PVA also works. Weldbond is overkill and likely messy. I can’t speak to Danish oil, but CA does stick to WOP (lightly) covered services as does PVA. My overkill is sometimes lightly etching the two surfaces to be glued. Definitely pin the channels using the method others have described, since you’re using pins, either CA or PVA are fine, My models use both depending on what’s being glued. Here’s the ladder and a channel on my Granado, built in 2009. I used mostly CA back then, everything is still attached. I’d use a scraper or my mill to make more interesting steps now, skills and tools I didn’t have then.

Thank you. It isn't, but I'm happy with it. The design is such a work of art.

Thank you. True, but the deck is a little more fun and not so long a haul - I hope 🙂

Thank you, I appreciate your stopping by.

Thanks Chuck. I’m really enjoying the design and the build. It’s so exacting and requires my best effort, more good challenges ahead I’m sure.

Thanks Rusty!