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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Neatly done, although I might suggest that you scrape paint off where any glued joint is. Even if the glue holds, there is a possibility of the paint shearing if the riser were bumped.
  2. Nice demo of this particular finish technique. As I only had a small area to do, I used artists' oil paint and thinners instead of stains. Otherwise I just used smaller brushes.
  3. Congratulations on completing a superb model, bitao! I hope she will be protected in a suitable case.
  4. Just discovered this lovely build and excellent figures. (This is a problem on MSW - too many fantastic models being built to be able to keep up with them all!) Very impressive work. Congratulations on a fine model, Silverman.
  5. Thanks to all who checked in and commented. Bob: The yoke is based on ones seen on contemporary models (see example below, SLR 1820). None have long arms, so presumably the leverage was sufficient. None show the lines and/or how they were run, but it would be reasonable to assume some kind of leading blocks. There is no indication of any on the cutter in the Venetian museum, so we are left hanging. This model will not show sails or rigging, just oars deployed. The case should be completed on Thursday, so no more can be done until then.
  6. Which reminded me of when I was a small child who read early. At my grandmother's was a shared toilet off the landing. The 'works' were a Victorian era extravaganza with a highly decorated bowl. I was mildly terrified to read the name of that particular piece of china. It read, "The Shark". But we digress!
  7. The bibbs do no angle anywhere as much as you show, Alan. As they are now, they will stick out either side of your trestle trees. I made that mistake on my first lower mast as well!
  8. So, the moldings I cut and ebonized yesterday have been assembled on the base and the acrylic pedestals installed. The model has been mounted on these using spots of epoxy. I now have to wait for the case to be made before I can mount the base on the much larger sub-base and attach the oars. Almost there!
  9. Pat: I simply cut rectangular section blanks for the oars, milled the shaft portions to 3" square, then cut, scraped and sanded the rest by hand and eye, also using a dial gauge for the finished dimensions. Spent part of the day (when not doing remedial work on the house exterior) milling moldings for the base and sub-base and ebonizing them. More soon. Thanks again for all the likes and visits, everyone!
  10. Now what would be really interesting is for you to build this kit, then build a modern kit version and see how the two compare!
  11. What plug? Nice progress, Toni! My only comment is that I interpret the shaded are at the tip of the knee as being shaved away to a blunt point as seen from above. If you can do that, the carving will look even nicer. Oh, and don't forget the shallow notch for the gammoning. See the Weazle draught.
  12. Eberhard: I was lucky this time. I made 12 blanks and did not have to re-do any of the ten. HH: Thank you. If you know the tricks of the trade, faux wood grain of all kinds is not that difficult. A wonderful book on the subject is: Professional Painted Finishes, by the Marx brothers (not those ones!) Allen and Robert and Ina Brosseau Marx, Watson Guptill, 1991.
  13. All ten oars are now carved and ready for bindings and leathering. Work continues on the base and pedestals. The latter will be from ⅛" diameter acrylic rod, so as to be minimalist.
  14. That galley roof is beautiful. I'm sorry that it will hardly be seen.
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