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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Have you TFFM Volume II? There is a method for making wheels in it if you do.
  2. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Alexander!
  3. druxey
    Thank you again, everyone, for following along and for your kind comments. The seat back held several challenges. It curves, is tilted and has to fit properly. The shape was determined using card patterns. A two-layer veneer of Castello was laid up on a one quart paint can. This, 4" in diameter, was exactly the correct radius - sometimes the gods smile upon us. I noted two supporting battens on the rear of the seat back, just visible in one of Eberhard's photos. As it turned out, constructing the back was the easy part. Much more challenging were the two 'horns'; the supporting timbers on the fore side of the seat. Compound curved surfaces and compound angled scores were needed. It took a very long full morning to successfully complete these. These completed the internal woodwork on the cutter. Next will be finishing the exterior: rudder, rubbing strake, tholes and decorative roundels at the bow.
  4. druxey
    It probably was not a poop deck at this time period. The 'cabin' under was a hutch for the 'trumpeter'.
  5. druxey
    Sweeps? Yes, there will be. Davits? No - then I'd have to build the ship the davits are attached to. "Ain't got no time for that!" Thanks for the kind comments and for looking in again, everyone.
  6. druxey
    I might suggest making a coaming joint from scrap first as practice and to provide a pattern for the actual joints.
  7. druxey
    Did you use a steady?
  8. druxey
    The wash strakes are now complete with their reinforcing pieces of in-rail. The in-rail is trapezoidal in section. I cut strips wider than the finished rail, beveled the outer edges, glued the pieces in, then trimmed the inner edge with a sharp blade and sanded. It is surprising how solid the structure of the model is. I'm in the process of fitting the last two knees at the stern, uniting in-rail with the transom. Again the knee is fitted and glued in over-size and the inner face shaped once it is secured. Although there are still quite few details to make, it is time to start considering how to mount and display the model. I'm favoring a similar base to that of other open boats that I have made, featuring burl veneer. However, a final decision is still pending. (The pencil included for scale has been requested!)
  9. druxey
    I use MicroMark's lead-free pewter. The MP is a little higher, but it's safer! Good luck trying to resuscitate the existing pieces.
  10. druxey
    I would not be too concerned about that slight hull asymmetry: in the completed model, who is going to measure whether that beakhead bulkhead is exactly at 90 degrees to the centerline? Nice progress, HH.
  11. druxey
    I was terrified of trying to cast in metal, but when I finally tried ( in pewter) I found it was not so difficult. RTV moulds are similar to resin casting ones. The only thing with a two-part closed mold is to provide air escape vents. A regular propane torch is fine for melting the metal.
  12. druxey
    End grain and moisture are always an issue that needs to be dealt with.
  13. druxey
    Each step is a micro-model of its own. Nicely and neatly done.
  14. druxey
    Could you mold and cast from the 'good' queen post?
  15. druxey
    Aaand...he's under way! Nice start, Michael.
  16. druxey
    Yes, you had better plan on paper or risk utter frustration! I might observe that the lowest ceiling planks creep up the bow much too far. The outermost planks should end in the vicinity of the foremost cant frame.That will simplify the congestion up the stemson a bit!
  17. druxey
    Moving on, the details at the bow have been completed. I noticed on the photographs of the actual boat that the flanges on the inner sides of the hawse pipes were larger than those on the outer sides. A protective metal strap extends down the face of the stem as well. I'm now working on the wash strakes. First the stub timberheads were sanded to uniform height. Short lengths of plank are being added and then reinforcing pieces of mini in-rail. There are pieces of timber with a gap between tholes 1 and 2 on the prototype. I have no idea what their purpose was, but copied them here.
  18. druxey
    The way to remember it is that the lower deadye looks like a skull and the upper one is the mirror of it.
  19. druxey
    No, Don, ships of that era had that turn of the clamp aft just as you have it. That is correct, strange as it may look!
  20. druxey
    Nice demonstration, dafi. If you are planning on actually manning the capstan in your model, remember that they gripped the bars thumbs upward and palms towards them. (This was to avoid broken forearms should the capstan kick back.) So often the wrong grip is shown, like pushing a baby stroller or bike.
  21. druxey
    Some of you have too little faith in me, others too much!!! Thanks anyway, Toni.
  22. druxey
    Interesting preventative method, Alan! Well thought out. I'd eight-square and round off manually rather than put it in the lathe, but to each his own.
  23. druxey
    Continuing, I made and fitted the bow sections of the wash strake. These were spiled as I had the hull planking, cut and glued in.. The next apart of construction was a nail-biter. The upper bow breast hook and extensions had to be carefully shaped to fit properly, glued in, and then drilled for the hawse holes. I only had one shot at getting the holes in the correct places on either side of the bow. There was virtually no margin for error. Too high, and the drill would break out, too low and the hole would pierce the rub rail that has yet to be installed. Fortunately, all went well. The holes were drilled under size, then slight corrections made with a round escapement file. At this point, the stem was bevelled on each side and the inside bow neatened up.
  24. druxey
    Now things start to get interesting!
  25. druxey
    Brass antiquing agent, Tom.

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