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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Yes, the high quality of construction shows not only in these details, but the state of preservation of this boat for about 170 years.
  2. Thank you, Maury. The two floor boards have been made and installed. Then blessing (and curse!) of having the prototype to refer to is that one sees all kinds of detail not shown on the usual plans. The photographs show a delicate beaded molding along the edges of these boards so, of course, I had to try adding these. First the planks were spiled and cut out. They are a scale 7" wide and 3/4" thick. The moldings were then carefully run. (I had this profile available from a previous open boat model.) the planks have considerable twist at both ends, They were hot water soaked and clipped in place to dry, then glued in permanently.
  3. The keelson is in now. I found that I had to score it fore and aft as the frames rise. Holes were drilled for ringbolts and a blind square mortise cut for the mast step. Next will be to spile and fit the two boards that support the stretchers (footrests) for the rowers.
  4. I agree with Allen: leave the ebony to the furniture builders!
  5. The aft body floors are now in. Then aftermost four pairs had to be cut from heat pre-bent stock. Next up, the keelson. It is substantial at 2½" x 4½" wide. Although the draught does not show this, photographs kindly supplied by Eberhard of the actual boat interior show this scored down on the floors and futtock heels. As this will not be visible (nor are the drainage holes in the frames) I won't go that far!
  6. The fore body floors are complete and the internal surfaces of the model cleaned up. As in larger vessels, the floors in the aft body will be attached to the aft sides of the futtocks. All these internal details were beautifully recorded and delineated in the American Neptune article, July 1955, by G.B. Rubin de Cervin.
  7. In English, it is called the 'false rail'. The inset panel is very nicely carved, Alex. There is usually a semi-circular notch at the forward end for the boomkin to sit in.
  8. I certainly wipe off any squeeze-out Eberhard, but also re-dampen and scrape later when dry. It's surprising how much more comes off! Thanks for looking in and for any questions.
  9. The first five half-floors for the fore body have been cut and fitted. A nice smooth line for the floor heads is needed as can be seen on the plan view. I'm often asked how my work looks so clean. The answer is time and labor intensive: I dampen surfaces with a wet brush and scrape any last remnants of glue off very carefully using miniature chisels or dental tools. However, for a natural, unpainted surface this is necessary.
  10. Looks like you are getting there. Filling ,rubbing down and repeating is tedious, but the end result is worth taking trouble over.
  11. Painting or staining items before adding them to a model is a good strategy! She's looking very nice indeed.
  12. There is much work yet to do, Eberhard. I'm going as fast as I can while still maintaining quality! The transom is still overheight at this point. All will become clear in time. There is a wash strake yet to go on, interrupted by tholes. It is supported by separate stub toptimbers. However, that is a long way off yet.
  13. If it's a half model...no discussion!
  14. The futtocks are now complete. The S-curved timbers aft were very challenging to bend and fit. Next are the floors. You can see the first midship floor already installed. Floors are in two parts for convenience, as the joints will be covered by the keelson.
  15. Congratulations, Clare. She looks terrific. Nice wind-blown flags as well!
  16. If the waterline marking in post #1 is accurate, then the old girl has hogged quite a bit. She'll need some major structural work done before cosmetic surgery.
  17. Progress continues. I'm improving my ability to bend frames freehand to fit the hull. As there are no cant frames, the most forward ones have to be twisted as well as curved to shape. An interesting experience! Only four more pairs to make and fit at the stern. Next will be making and fitting floors that abut the futtocks.
  18. Unfortunately brute strength is not helpful in model-making. But you know that already. If you wet the wood sufficiently, it should obey you with minimum of fuss. Another model maker had a bad break in a plank and he was successful in repairing it. Perhaps you can do the same. It's all part of the learning curve - fixing 'oopsies'.
  19. I suspect the beeswax thing is another of those passed down tales. I believe that heavy thread was waxed years ago to make sewing by hand easier. Some ship model maker saw this and thought "Hey, it makes my coarse thread less hairy," and used it. Word spread and every ship modeler started waxing their thread, whether it needed it or not. Somehow the idea of preservation got into the mix, in spite of the fact that beeswax is slightly acidic. That's my theory, anyway!
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