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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Seems the methyl cellulose is the best choice you have available, unless you want a shiny finish.
  2. Allan: Squirrel's draught is a little unusual with its opposite facing expansions. One can always tell which is the internal one by: 1) The 'garboard' inside does not run all the way to the stern post 2) There is usually a gap for the limber channel internally 3) There are gaps in the planking runs for the deck beams as well as air spaces. In Squirrel you can make out the thicker bands of plank internally as well. Hawk shows internal port and starboard only
  3. Dashed lines on these draughts generally indicate alterations. I concur with frolick.
  4. Before you get carried away, please note that the red lines denote internal planks, not external ones! Those short lengths would be a) handy to use up offcuts lengths and b) get into position in very cramped places.
  5. Beautiful as usual! Are you planning to rig this model as well, Giampiero?
  6. Nice treatment of an unusual subject, Alan. What was the source material or plan from?
  7. The strength of such wood structures were more than the sum of their parts, Don. Once the framing is together, you'll be surprised at its rigidity.
  8. And functional, too! Hats off, gentlemen; a genius.
  9. Ensor is an acknowledged expert on the period. His books are highly recommended.
  10. The earlier edition included French and Dutch rigging variations, the later reprint only covers English rigging of the period.
  11. Elastic bands and blocks are also a good way of holding planks in place.
  12. I think you state the case very well and clearly, Bob. Expectations need to be dialled back a bit.
  13. Try: https://www.modelmotorcars.com/scalehardware/
  14. Well the gun deck cannon issue is a serious one. And you wonder why so many models show the gun deck ports closed? One idea (thinking laterally); why not show the lids closed and display the armament for this deck on the model's baseboard? It has been done before; I recall at least one POW bone/ivory model in the Rogers' Collection with a similar presentation.
  15. The problem of cumulative error can be dealt with. However accurate your thicknessing, there is the added thickness of the glue lines to consider. The best method is to measure cumulative length carefully after, say, five or six frames and then either make the next frame a whisker thicker or thinner to compensate. This will not be noticeable in the finished model.
  16. You probably need to seal the cloth or you will get paint or ink 'bleed'.
  17. I've sent you a PM with an article on the subject.
  18. Every time that there is a 'translation', something will either be lost or an error will occur. I do not recommend this.
  19. Thank you, Tim. I'd just finished reading this in the morning Globe. He is probably the last of his kind in Newfoundland. An amazing output!
  20. Oh, I've been around for a few years, Alex! You'll find the same technique useful for all the carved work.
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