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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I seem to recall a contemporary drawing or print of such an arrangement, but can't recall where I saw it. Presumably the logic is that the foremost port and hawsehole don't cut through this wale. And, as you say, Mr. Watton does his homework.
  2. Hopefully the new model will have a bow and stern. It will, won't it, Frank?
  3. I suppose there's something to be said for good old-fashioned, lo-tech hand tools....
  4. Well Modeler12, that's a very creditable early piece and I'm sure you gained a lot of experience doing it. Well done!
  5. With all due respect, LOS will blacken brass, assuming the surface is properly cleaned.
  6. I've used a variation of that technique for some time. Instead of a separate serving, I leave the service extra long at the angle-cut end of the line, then continue wrapping once the glue has set.
  7. Dafi: on reflection, you are correct: bilgewater would not be suitable. However, now I recall seeing a cross-sectional drawings of a ship showing inlets and pipes below the waterline for drawing in fresh seawater. These had brake pumps with outlets for each deck, not chain pumps.
  8. Why would you not use PVA (white) glue?
  9. Lovely looking already, even with the Irish pennants! Sorry that some of your splices failed. Glad you were able to do a catch and save.
  10. You are done, Frank? I'm disappointed - no more progress reports. Anyway, congratulations on an excellent result.
  11. Ingenious and simple, JMS! Whatever method you use, ratlines are a slow job.
  12. I suspect that the limbers were cleared by working the pumps from the lower deck. One would not want to to use more energy in raising the water much higher than water level. The upper set would only be used to raise water from the lower cistern to the upper deck for washing the deck down, etc.
  13. Balloons, eh? I always wondered.... And the ship's boat in frame can be explained by, "The sailors are working on it in their spare time." Those lower masts look lovely now, Ed. Well done.
  14. Get your lining out done and view the model the right way up from all angles as well as upside down. Plank with the model inverted unless you are a bear for punishment!
  15. If you aren't satisfied now, it will always nag at you. Go for the re-do; it won't hurt! The rest of your work looks truly lovely, Erik.
  16. Nice work on the cabin, Bob. Soon time to raise some steam....
  17. Neither white or yellow glues take happily to freezing, unfortunately. It's rotten luck if you happened to get a bad bottle.
  18. Coming along nicely, Maury! That cat davit is massive. Michael: just because da Vinci drew it, means the idea probably didn't catch on for a few more centuries. Look at his flying machines....
  19. Roger: this begs the question of when ball bearings and races were first introduced. Do you have a date for this?
  20. Nice stove and delightful cap! I envy you having CNC milling available to make those skylight frames.
  21. 'Slush' i.e. tallow was probably used for lubrication, not oil. Bearings were generally pretty simple. I imagine the spindle or shaft end would simply ride in a cast iron cup. 18th century capstans were done this way.
  22. Whew! Building that capstan is quite the saga! Well done, Frank.
  23. Are you pre-bending your planks, or are they simply sprung into place? You really need to pre-shape them using heat and/or moisture.
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