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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    It takes a while to finesse things so they look good from all angles. It's worth taking the time to do it right.
  2. druxey
    I think that's the way this was usually done, Maury. Take a look at Ed's Young America. I know it's a different era, but is similar.
  3. druxey
    Now, that looks much sweeter and you'll be happier!
  4. druxey
    Nice find!!!! Well spotted.
  5. druxey
    I believe that Spencers were usually stepped in a block of wood on deck.
  6. druxey
    The problem here is that the slope continuously varies - it's not constant like 1:30 or whatever. So one can't really quantify it in degrees. Usually sheer is a line that is a circular arc of large radius; or of two different arcs, one forward and another aft.
  7. druxey
    'Turning in' refers to wrapping the shroud around the deadeye and making the throat seizing to hold it in place before adding the middle and end seizings.
  8. druxey
    You'll latch on to it after a while, then wonder what all the fuss was about! With the bulkheads so far apart, very stiff card will work best for you.
  9. druxey
    Beautiful metalwork as always, Ed!
  10. druxey
    The time and effort you took to make those hooks has paid off well! Very nice and neat, Mike.
  11. druxey
    I seem to recall a contemporary drawing or print of such an arrangement, but can't recall where I saw it. Presumably the logic is that the foremost port and hawsehole don't cut through this wale. And, as you say, Mr. Watton does his homework.
  12. druxey
    Hopefully the new model will have a bow and stern. It will, won't it, Frank?
  13. druxey
    I suppose there's something to be said for good old-fashioned, lo-tech hand tools....
  14. druxey
    Well Modeler12, that's a very creditable early piece and I'm sure you gained a lot of experience doing it. Well done!
  15. druxey
    With all due respect, LOS will blacken brass, assuming the surface is properly cleaned.
  16. druxey
    I've used a variation of that technique for some time. Instead of a separate serving, I leave the service extra long at the angle-cut end of the line, then continue wrapping once the glue has set.
  17. druxey
    Dafi: on reflection, you are correct: bilgewater would not be suitable. However, now I recall seeing a cross-sectional drawings of a ship showing inlets and pipes below the waterline for drawing in fresh seawater. These had brake pumps with outlets for each deck, not chain pumps.
  18. druxey
    Why would you not use PVA (white) glue?
  19. druxey
    Lovely looking already, even with the Irish pennants! Sorry that some of your splices failed. Glad you were able to do a catch and save.
  20. druxey
    You are done, Frank? I'm disappointed - no more progress reports. Anyway, congratulations on an excellent result.
  21. druxey
    Ingenious and simple, JMS! Whatever method you use, ratlines are a slow job.
  22. druxey
    I suspect that the limbers were cleared by working the pumps from the lower deck. One would not want to to use more energy in raising the water much higher than water level. The upper set would only be used to raise water from the lower cistern to the upper deck for washing the deck down, etc.
  23. druxey
    Balloons, eh? I always wondered.... And the ship's boat in frame can be explained by, "The sailors are working on it in their spare time." Those lower masts look lovely now, Ed. Well done.
  24. druxey
    Get your lining out done and view the model the right way up from all angles as well as upside down. Plank with the model inverted unless you are a bear for punishment!
  25. druxey
    If you aren't satisfied now, it will always nag at you. Go for the re-do; it won't hurt! The rest of your work looks truly lovely, Erik.

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