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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Thanks again for the likes and comments, everyone. And yes, Ed, I too am mortal! The sequence of construction needs to be carefully considered. Before adding the keelson (making replacement on the plug impossible) a last half-strake needed to be cut and fitted. This will carry all the ornamental scrollwork aft. It has a sinuous S-curve in plan, and required the entire elastic band brigade to damp-shape it into position.
  2. Those T-straps actually ran across the wing transom and up the forward face of the counter timbers. Your photo (post 42) has it placed upside-down. The curve fits on the lower counter area.
  3. The sheer strake proved challenging in more ways than I had anticipated. First, this strake tapers to a point at the bow. Finessing this was not easy. Secondly, I had a minor mishap. While working with the hull off the plug, my sleeve caught the unsupported aft end of the strake and it snapped off. So, a re-do. I flattened and re-assembled the broken plank to show its peculiar shape. Wes mentioned a U.S. quarter, so I've included one for scale. I will not remove the shell from the plug again until both sides of the aft ends are complete and united with the outer transom!
  4. Your instinct to mortise the counter timbers to the wing transom is correct: the original ships had shallow scores to locate these timbers. The T-straps are usually one-piece affairs, though.
  5. Well, a challenge it has certainly been. The aftermost plank of the sheer strake is unlike any plank I've hung before. The pictures describe this plank better far than I can write about it. There was a lot of shaping required to get this plank to lay down properly. One can now see the beautiful sweep of the sheer properly. Now all I have to do is repeat this on the other side!
  6. Looking beautiful but a little messy right now! I can't wait to see the deck once it's completed and scraped down.
  7. Thanks again for your interest and comments, folks. I realized that the second strake of planking (the sheer strake) at the mini-transom does not stop there, but sweeps aft to a secondary transom (I don't know what else to call it). So I had to trim back the end of the plug by a scale 1½" and rubber-cement this second transom to it. Eventually it will be hidden under an ornamental carved badge. The plank here will have an interesting dog-leg shape and need some fancy bending to fit properly. That's my next challenge! GHB rev lines.pdf
  8. Well done on arriving at the first port of call, Alan. We await with anticipation....
  9. I agree with Clare - stay away from lead-bearing pewter. I pour pewter in Micro-Mark's 1:1 RTV moulds with no problem.
  10. The red paint on the cutaway makes it clear that it is, in fact, a cutaway. I think your idea of doing this a good one, Dan.
  11. Thank you all for your kind comments, gentlemen. The compliments should really go to the original designers of these craft.
  12. I wonder if the builders of the original flywheels had the same issues with the castings. You certainly had a challenge keeping 16 pieces under control! However, the end result looks terrific. I hope the other three wheels are less hassle for you.
  13. Time for a progress report. The planking has slowly been spiled, cut, bent and hung as far as below the sheer strake. The first picture (arrowed) demonstrates the bevel for the land of the next strake. This was formed using the sanding stick mentioned earlier. Note that the bevel alters - and disappears - as the hull form changes. The second photo shows the transition of the strakes at the stern from hooding into the stern post rabbet to running out over the tiny transom. Only two strakes end on the transom. Forming the junction of these two strakes neatly was tricky. The last photograph shows off the elegance of the hull form. At this stage I bevelled the stem so that the planking appears to flow out of it. After the sheer strake is added there will be clean-up and minor adjustments to make.
  14. Just discovered your log, Matti. Rigging gets easier the more you do it. First time is always a stress test! Very nice work; one wouldn't know it was your first ship model. As for your next model, there are a lot of possibilities. First, what kind of ship appeals to you: wood or metal? What time period? Then, how much room do you have and what scale do you like to work at? Answering these questions will narrow down the choices a bit.
  15. Better and better each time, John. If you are offering plans, I imagine 1:48 and 1:72 would be popular. For those with limited space, 1:96 as well? Apart from a general lines plan, folk might want profile (internal deck arrangements), lofted frames, and deck plans. The really ambitious will hope to see masts, spars and rigging plans as well, if you want to go there.
  16. Wood will move where it wants to go. Start with a really straight-grained piece from which to cut your keel. It will need to be pinned in some way to your plug. This will keep it straight until your garboard strakes are fitted to it, giving everything a 'T' section assembly that will help maintain straightness.
  17. I agree that, on a model, pure black caulking is a little harsh-looking. Your model is looking very sweet.
  18. A thought, Steven: put in every other frame on the plug, then bend in the alternate ones after the shell comes off the plug. Would that make life easier? Thanks for the compliment. Speaking of lightly built, the hospital barge is 37' 0" long with a keel 3" square before the rabbet is taken out and the frames will be a mere ¾" square.
  19. Aeee! When I was playing with SketchUp, I never got as far as figuring out strategies to defeat its defaults. That is a great example of fooling the program to submit to your will. Thank you.
  20. Five strakes a side are completed now. Note that I had to pare back the extreme ends of the plug so that the planks would run smoothly into the rabbet fore and aft. With this hull form the spiled planks are only slightly curved, except at the stern.
  21. I'm with Chuck. No stress on the plank, no stress on you!
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