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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    We could say the same of you, Glenn!
  2. druxey
    Only switch from x if there is compelling and overwhelming evidence from y! That set of lines looks very nice, John.
  3. druxey
    Mark: if you have detail photos of the interior of the forward part of that vessel and near the tiller, posting those would be very helpful. Thanks for the kind offer. Yes, these crafts were very lightly built but surprisingly strong. Think of them as predecessors of today's 'eights' rowing shells. These two photos show how the lap disappears into the rabbet at the bow. The second strake also has a rolling bevel that fits the one on the edge of the first strake. You can also see that there is no gap along the lap, as the bevel that was sanded in takes care if this. PVA glue was applied with a very small brush and any excess cleaned up immediately.
  4. druxey
    Here are a couple of photographs of the land - the bevel - being sanded on the edge of the garboard and of the gain at the end of the rabbet (arrowed). The gain is basically a rolling bevel. It ends at 45 degrees so that the next plank will come in flush at the rabbet. Essentially clinker becomes carvel over the last 9" or 12" of the strake.
  5. druxey
    Great stuff, Glenn! The original designer of these flywheels was very ingenious. To reproduce these in miniature you also had to be!
  6. druxey
    As Oscar Wilde said, "You will, you will," Michael!
  7. druxey
    A little more time was spent on completing the starboard garboard strake. The next step is to shape the lands for the second strake of planking. If one were to omit this step, the second strake would not have any gluing surface and there would be a gap under the strake, A. Obviously, a bevel is required. It varies in angle along the strake according to hull curvature, B. To cut this accurately, I took some scrap wood the width of a strake and rubber cemented some 220 grit sandpaper along one edge, C. Keeping the 'safe' corner of this along the mark-out of the second strake's far edge, it is easy to shape the correct bevel along the installed strake. The next instalment will show this completed. A note: I found the short pins under the keel not very effective in holding the keel straight, as the keel kept popping off. On a another long narrow hull I would drill the pins all the way through the keel. A digression: One side effect of modelling an open boat at this small scale is the amount of wood required to build it. Very little is needed, making this a very economic exercise in materials, but not in time.
  8. druxey
    Michael: I cut the stock several thou over-thick on a Byrnes saw with a micrometer adjustable fence. I then process it through his thickness sander to within .004" of finished dimension. A fine sanding block removes sanding marks and completes the prepared stock. The leaves I'm using are just under ¾" wide. George: gesso is the (usually) white compound artists use to prime canvases. These days it has an acrylic base. Once dry, one can sand it to a very smooth surface. Any reputable art store will carry gesso. (The word is pronounced with a hard 'g', as in 'jesso' - or 'George'!) Thanks again for the 'likes', folks.
  9. druxey
    Exemplary work, Karl!
  10. druxey
    Surprisingly little pigment powder is required to color glue. I prefer to mix a small amount of pigment into paste with water before mixing with white glue. As Ed says, the mix will dry much darker than the liquid glue. Please wear respiratory protection as the pigment powder is very fine and easily becomes airborne.
  11. druxey
    Frankie: lead deteriorates at a rate dependent on the atmosphere and temperature it's exposed to. I've seen lead 'fuzz' in comparatively recent models and still undeteriorated lead in older models. Either way, it's toxic stuff and needs to be handled and disposed of appropriately. I've currently got a model for conservation with about 70-year old corroded lead cell batteries in it. They (and the lead-based paint that's flaking off) go to the hazardous waste disposal site.
  12. druxey
    Further progress. The garboard is in on the port side and the forward plank on the starboard. The interesting thing is that, at any point in planking, provided one has spiled and shaped the plank to lie without stress, one can remove the model from the plug and it will retain its shape.
  13. druxey
    Joel: stay with this log and all will be revealed! In short, the laps will be bevelled in a while and gains cut at bow and stern. It will be done just as in full-size practice, but considerably smaller.
  14. druxey
    Sweet! She's looking good.
  15. druxey
    If that was your first attempt at carved lettering - well done, Michael! And that you used a simple #11 blade rather than miniature carving tools is even more remarkable.
  16. druxey
    Thank you, gentlemen all. Finally had some quality time on the model. The first garboard plank is now spiled, cut, shaped and fitted. The stock is thin enough to cut with a sharp scalpel blade. The twist was achieved by cold wet bending and holding in place using rubber bands until dry. Castello takes more persuasion to bend than holly. Once the plank was dry, it was glued in place. I needed to cut back the plug more at the bow to allow the plank to land nicely in the bow rabbet. One plank down, many more to go!
  17. druxey
    A two year old? What were they thinking???? Anyway, both models are a good restoration challenge and I'm looking forward to seeing them returned to their former glory. Good luck with them.
  18. druxey
    That is exactly so.
  19. druxey
    And is the paint well stirred? In some paints the pigment tends to settle out fairly quickly.
  20. druxey
    Thanks for all the 'likes' and comments, everyone. Dan: the planking butts are arranged to fall on the frames in the model. I'm not going as far as bevelled and clenched joints on 1/64" thick material! This is a 1:48 scale exercise. I may be mad, but not entirely crazy.
  21. druxey
    Very nicely done! Catheads would have been of a single piece of compass timber for strength. They were probably cut from the bottom of the tree trunk where the roots spread out at the correct angle. (The cathead's shape would be upside-down when the tree was upright.)
  22. druxey
    That's correct, Joel - I hope! The last clinker boat I built was done this way. It's amazing how clinker planking holds the boat's shape. I even took the boat off the plug when half-planked to demonstrate. The frames will be bent in later on in the process.
  23. druxey
    After the full model, you should be able to do the deck framing in your sleep, Dan! Looking good.
  24. druxey
    Yes, I agree - what you've done is akin to watchmaking! Well played, Ed.
  25. druxey
    Looking good, but has the fore end of the coaming come adrift?

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