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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Glad to be of service, Stuntflyer! -
50-gun ship by newbee - 1/72 scale
druxey replied to newbee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
There are 5 sheets in the plan set, apparently. The how to model this subject was described in a series of 1953 Model Engineer articles by R.J. Collins. I believe that the plan set is still available (search on-line) and old copies of Model Engineer can be found on e-Bay. Happy hunting! -
Renshape for scratch builders
druxey replied to rshousha's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
High density foams have been around for a while. I've used them in theatrical set construction in the past. They work very well for carving in detail but, as mentioned, are very expensive and only available in large chunks. My only reservation would be the longevity of the material, but for most folk this probably isn't a big consideration. -
As I PM'd you, Mark, I just use ordinary bond paper, stretched as water-colour paper before painting it with either flat enamel or acrylic paint. When the painting is done, I cut out the pieces. Dilute white glue is used to attach the finished friezes.
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Have you considered painting the frieze on paper and then gluing it over the planking? Many contemporary models did it this way. I've found it a lot easier than trying to position the model in a way that isn't awkward - or risky! - while painting the lower counter.
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Superb work, Ed - but now you've made me run out of superlatives!
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Interesting thread. I recall visiting an English country church in my childhood. There was an ossuary in the undercroft with stacks of both femurs and skulls. I presume these had been disinterred from the churchyard to make room for newer arrivals (think of the graveyard scene in Hamlet).
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Pete is correct: in the 18th century the copper strakes started at the keel and were laid parallel to it. This results in the highest strakes running out at an angle fore and aft at the waterline. On way the sharp ends were dealt with was with a wood batten nailed along the waterline overlapping the edges of the copper. Another, probably later, way was to run the top two strakes of copper along the waterline. See the photos of a coppered model of Bellona on the National Maritime Museum's 'Collections' site that shows the earlier method.
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I like your pin-holes idea for maintaining position of the square on the building board. Good move!
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The other possibility is a little squirt of inert gas before re-capping. This is available in pressure canisters for the purpose.
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Card, ply; it doesn't matter which material the square is made from. The important thing is that it's not made of metal, so that if it falls over on the model it won't damage it.
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I don't think anyone gets this right the first - or even second - time around. Eventually you will nail it, Ben. I find that a heavy card square set up on the board aligned with the layout helps a lot.
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If you are thinking of paint, spray with automotive primer first. Then paint with a yellow ochre, adding a touch of orange, white and/or burnt umber to taste. You can use acrylic or solvent based paint over the primer.
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"What will they think?" That's a pretty powerful motivator, Ed, especially when you've set our expectations so high! But you've never disappointed us yet.
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Sorry, folks, but I respectfully beg to differ. The planking runs at the bow don't look right to my eye. The garboard strake runs too far up the bow, causing crowding further up the bow (if it were the right way up!). See my sketch for what I think would be closer to the way it was done. Others have already commented on the plank butt scheme, which seems random to me. However, ultimately the result has to please the builder.
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That last photo, with the height of the keelson, gives one a real appreciation of both the original ship's structure and your re-creation of it, Ed.
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From contemporary models, the wash cants appear to be composed of planks laid diagonally, as Dan has shown.
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Lovely neat work - as usual, Peter.
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what is the ideal modelling table?
druxey replied to AON's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Better smuggle your new stuff in using plain brown bags, Alan! -
David B: there are always boo-boos when building a model. The trick is figuring out how to recover from them so that nobody can tell!
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If the plan measures 168' 0" as well as states so, then I'd go with that. I suspect that the pen notation length of 170' 0" was questioned and the master shipwright told that it was approved for him to proceed with the 168' 0" measurement.
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I've no idea what the Newtonian ring effect is telling me, but it looks interesting! Going back to your earlier post showing the extract from the contract, I was amused at the notation: '0 feet and 13 inches'!
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That is probably one of the most tricky strakes in the whole build. Your scratch molding cutter worked very well.
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Very neat work, Peter.
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