druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Well, that is a nice change for you as well as the kit market! -
Your work continues to be beautifully executed, Alex. Thanks for sharing.
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No, Alan. You need to set the keel horizontal on the building board, as the frames are erected at right angles to the keel, not the waterlines. Might I suggest you do some reading up on the subject as well? It will help you avoid some of the pitfalls that await the unwary.
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Lovely, as usual!
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Waterlines may be sloped or horizontal. It depended on the designer's intent. Some ships sailed with the keel level with the waterline, others were designed to draw more water aft than forward. In extreme cases (usually small ships such as cutters) the 'drag' of the keel was extreme. The fact that Elephant was planned to trim with some drag aft is easily spotted on the body plan. The waterlines on the fore body and aft body don't meet at the centreline.
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Nice strategy for the carlings, Toni. Might I suggest a cross-spall or two across the outer counter timbers to reinforce them for now? That way, you might avoid snapping them off, which - as you've discovered - is so easy to do.
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If you are considering using needle nose pliers, get really high-grade ones. I struggled for years with an inferior pair. Now I use a beautiful but expensive pair made in Sweden by Teborg. Sweet!
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Be careful of plan distortion as you go! (This subject has been the topic of many other threads on this site.)
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Lovely work, Rob, except for the bloodshed….
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Asphalt or bitumen in varnishes or other finishes are a problem. These never fully oxidize of polymerize and remain slightly liquid. An example is in old oil paintings and furniture where the bitumen browns form an 'alligator skin' all across the surface. Other earth brown pigments do not do this. Lovely work on your quarter galleries, Gaetan!
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Are you sure this is the same model??? You are doing an amazing makeover, Dan!
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Very nice, Dan. It might be a good place to mention that BlackenIt will not work on pewter or Brittania metal. For pewter, use Pewter Black (not surprising, that!) and, as you've discovered it will work after a fashion on Brittania metal. I'm not aware of a specific blackener for Brittania.
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- queen annes revenge
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Yikes! My gudgeons are sweating!!
druxey replied to src's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
The result in the photo looks very good, Sam. Glad it worked out. -
New Video on Basic Soldering for Scale Models
druxey replied to P_Budzik's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
That is an excellent primer on soldering, Paul, and a very slick video production. Thank you for posting this resource. -
Congratulations on reaching this point, Ed. That was quite a rapid progression, considering the number of frames involved. She looks beautifully sleek.
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Of course, if you can afford the Cloud version of Adobe PhotoShop, the latest update has an impressive correction of motion blur feature as well as an advanced photo sharpening app. A tripod is much more economical, though, as Remco suggests!
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Looking at your deck details, I keep having to remind myself that the scale is not 1:48 but 1:96! Very nice metalwork indeed, Nils.
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- heinrich kayser
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Nice organization of your tools, Remco. I wish I could keep mine looking that way. So much sawdust gets into the drawers….
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- sloop
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There were many 'feet' of different lengths in Europe prior to the metric system. An Amsterdam foot was different to a Swedish foot, and so on….
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Kind of like the cherry on top…. Looking good, Dan.
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Ouch! Bad stuff happens…. At least it's not irrecoverable. Look on the bright side: at least you proved yourself correct!
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You might also want to consider The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV, from SeaWatch Books. It give step-by-step rigging of a sixth rate of the 1780 time period.
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You have been busy! The work looks beautifully neat and tidy. Very well done, Albert. (You can post images directly here if you click on 'More reply options'). -
It would be very difficult to cut in the upper edge of the rabbet once all the frames are in, as they will be on the way of your cutting tools. Try using a very well honed V-gouge. Take very tiny shavings off and correct any waviness with succeeding cuts as you deepen the rabbet.
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