justsayrow
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Everything posted by justsayrow
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Welcome from Katy!
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I’m in the pencil camp. one thing to consider if you’ve not already: experiment with the different techniques before applying them to the model itself. I saw other modelers posting mockups and test runs and it kinda struck me as a blinding flash of the obvious: we can practice things! good luck!
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Round stock is much more readily available. Maybe go up a size and machine it from that?
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Pete, I look forward to your painting post(s). It’s the area I struggle most in, and yours is always so uniform and crisp.
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Great to have you back!
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Masking, sanding, and priming with grey will be a good approach for the white racing stripes. Next car, maybe think about laying down the white first, then masking the white areas before putting the red down. Really enjoying watching this come together, it’s both a classic car and classic model!
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I build in bursts. 4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes. Then I get back at it!
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Looking for a good first "plank on bulkhead" kit.
justsayrow replied to DonInAZ's topic in Wood ship model kits
Don, A/L's Swift is the model that planking really "clicked" for me. The lines are straight forward with a little challenge on the stern. It's also a fairly quick rig so the sense of accomplishment timeline is short. And it's a nice scale so you can scratch build a lot of details if you choose. Plenty of build logs here for guidance. Good luck! -
Help me decide which to build next
justsayrow replied to stripehunter's topic in Wood ship model kits
The cross section will give you a new set of skills: a square rig. Also it's a quick build. Out of the box it's pretty inaccurate though. -
A ship manager I worked with liked to say it's a 3D business: Dirty, Difficult and Dangerous.
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- sd-14 cargo ship
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It's a shame that one can only click "Like This" once! Beautiful work.
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Chuck, Your posting today brought up a good point: the instructions. Having your build logs that turn into the instruction book works out great in my opinion. "Show me" works much better for my brain than "tell me". Brian, yours re: dollars per hour is spot-on. It's just that the admiral won't notice $50/month but the ONE TIME - man, my couch is not that comfortable!!! R/ Jerry
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My company's vessels are named to honor vessels in Cook's fleet. Is a fantasy to build an accurate, 1/64ish scale Endeavour, Resolution, etc. POB Price: below $500, including tax and US shipping Build time: a week or two! Seriously, my build style has me at the bench pretty consistently for 4-8 weeks, then I take a 4-8 week break while my model brain recharges, or works through how to handle some challenge. Repeat. I've had models built in one "period" (love that Longboat Chuck!). Others, well, I started King of the Mississippi in 2003. As such, can't really answer. I'd lean toward a beginner kit, to remain close to $500, knowing that some modelers would scratch build additional components where they desired.
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Chuck, your development times drive home the point of the 8 (er, 7; it's a family site) P's: Proper Prior Planning and Preparation Prevent ____ Poor Performance.
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- Queen Anne Barge
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I like the idea of having a model to guide the building of your model! Just like a real shipyard!
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Battle Scars
justsayrow replied to tradewinds's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Shep Paine's "How to Build Dioramas", chapter 9 is a case study of his "Farewell to Bonhomme Richard". It's a great example of battle damage. Google Books previews most of it. -
Masking tape on the backside of the part helps too. I usually drill closer the the center of the window, then cut diagonally into each corner. That seems the help give it relief when I cut along the lines.
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Michael, The Infinity looks like a Ferrari! I have used a paasche H series single acting for 20+ years. Works great, is a rock solid performer at about 1/5 the price of the infinity. Good luck, Jerry
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Rod, Looking really good! The saw teeth are for cutting cables or nets that were deployed to defend against u-boats.
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Light pressure. Many passes. Slice the wood by drawing the knife across the fibers, don't press the knife against the wood with a lot of force; cut, don't crush. And keep your blades sharp - every several slices, draw the blade over a fine stone to restore the edge. I've found a self healing cutting mat helps too. Good luck!
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Jazzchip, check out our parent organization's mentor program: http://www.thenrg.org/nrg-mentoring-program-program.php
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Scaling Down From The Original Specs Can Be Fun
justsayrow replied to Julie Mo's topic in Wood ship model kits
Julie, I have good news for you - you won't need 4 tons of lead! The scale factor is only linear for linear dimensions (length, beam, depth, draft). For volume dimensions, you cube it (35x35x35) for a value of 42,875. 143 long tons is 320,320 pounds. 320,320 / 42,875 about 7 1/2 pounds of displacement. For reference, 8,171 pounds of seawater requires displacement of 127 cubic feet, or a box roughly 5 x 5 x 5 feet square to be neutrally buoyant. Similar for the area measurement, you square the factor. 35x35 is 1,225. 7,651 ft2 / 1,225 is 6 1/4 ft2. Much more do-able! R/ Jerry- 1 reply
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