mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Hmm.... interesting. The RTV I used back in my tech writing days in engineering was a compound like a silicon gel though it also came in liquid form for brushing on.
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Thanks for the likes and comments. More progress. Finished up the stern. Not real happy and I may tear it out. The only good thing is that this is hidden on the model. Mark, head over to here where I've explained my absences and everything else rather than cluttering things hear up a bit:
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Thanks for the "likes", the comments and the support. A bit of an update. All is not quiet in the shipyard but has been rather slow dealing with family and doggie issues. I repaired the stempost (replaced it actually), trimmed down the transom, and then stained and installed the gunwales. Hopefully, over the next day or two, I'll be able to re-cut the formers I need and install them along with some other bits and pieces I need.
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If I'm reading this right, you're planning on painting the clear piece? Why not shoot some primer on it before cutting then?
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I was thinking the same as Pat on those "holes". Hmm... the Admiral spoke... the translation I always used this: "Abandon all hope, ye who enter here .".
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I'm saddened to hear about Adrian, Nenad.- 4,151 replies
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The tar used on the static rigging wasn't black but darkened with age, exposure to the salt air and reapplication as needed. It was a brownish color which is the color of the Stockholm tar that was used. The running rigging was untreated. Here's a picture from the Syren Model Company's rigging line. Take into consideration what the others have said about the line.
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Hello Peter, Welcome to MSW. The big thing is, relax. This is a hobby There's an index of the kit models (I'm posting link below). Look up Diana and you'll see the build logs. For specific questions, use the search function (upper right hand side of every page). If there's a specific issue on the hull, there's the Building, Framing, Planking area.
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New and need help to identify a mystery model? Read here first!
mtaylor replied to ccoyle's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Ellen, Welcome to MSW. To answer some questions.. yes, some do quite some displays with docks, etc. Most of us don't float our boats as they're too fragile, but in the Kit area there's an index of all the logs, pick the one that says: RC which should cover most of the ones that see water. I put a link to the index below. As for card, yes again. Same for subs. Those can be kits or scratch and again, they should be in the index. For starters, if you're thinking of building on, look around the gallery and see what draws your attention. But to start, start small, maybe a small craft like a canoe or rowboat and then one with one mast. Work from there. The advantage of starting small is you'll learn much and at not a large investment in tools or kits. And by all means start a build log when you do. You'll get help from others and also make some friends. Link to the Index: -
Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I hope you're having a very good birthday, my friend.- 4,151 replies
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As you work, at each joint use a damp cloth to wipe up the smears and overflows. It's easier to get it off before it dries than after it does.
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I agree with Mark. Also, I'll add, start a build log as it's the best way to get help. As for finding logs... go here and pick the "Small boats" index. It will download a PDF to your computer and all the logs are listed there:
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I would suggest reading the articles here as a starter: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-plans-and-research.php It might give you an idea of what to look for in a kit. The common advice is start small, maybe no masts or a single mast and work up from there.
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Wonderful build, Grant. Perhaps the best way, and this only applies if she likes the model, ask her where to put it. If she's not fond of the model, don't ask and find someplace out her sight.
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Beautiful work on a type not seen much here.
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Wow...!!!!! That model is a monster. I agree with the others that the PE is really adding to it.
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Looking lovely, Mark. I'm glad you were able to get a good outcome. Next time you try, put the brass in a small container (I use an old glass bowl) and let the part sit in the solution. I do miss Blacken-it though as that stuff always worked perfectly.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Not going to like that post, my friend. Love that model parts, hate the water.- 4,151 replies
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Shop Safety and Oops Repairs
mtaylor replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
That makes me wince just reading it. I hope the healing goes well, Dave. -
Lovely work, Jerry. I ran into the same issue on my build. One comment that came to me was "pick one as the ship was built in the transitional period". Reality was they were removed (if I recall correctly) after her first cruise. I never did find out why, though.
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Thanks Patrick. And yes, there's still damage from getting it off the build board. For example, the stempost has some damage on the back (inboard) side and there's 4 formers down in the bilge to hold the deck up that need to be replaced. Need a bit of laser time for that but it's coming. I'm pretty confident I can make this one look presentable and not have to redo it as I though when it first came off.
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