mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Beginner questions, glues and tools
mtaylor replied to dvlp47's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Bob has good advice. Also, use the search index or the one here: and see what other builders have done for a similar model. Each model has it's challenges and sometimes it's glue related. -
Paul, Here's my $.02 and it's worth about what you paid for it.... It's your ship, build it the way you want. There is no "wrong" way here. Having said that, the French builders seem to go for basically Swiss pear, ebony, boxwood and maybe one or two others. The Russians seem to use a preparation that gives there's a dark look (generally). But these aren't hard fast rules. Some prefer to "paint with wood", others with paints, others still just bits and pieces as you've described. We see all types here and none are wrong. It' depends on what the modeler wishes his/her build to look like when done. As for accuracy... sometimes that a tough call. In the Scratch area there's many talented builders who run into a "I think this is what it looked like" because we don't have 100% plans for all parts. Same with paint... we just don't have it. So we do the best we can based on our skills and what we want to achieve. In other words, if you want to paint it, then paint it. It's your ship, remember.
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Good idea on the Shapeways. You can take dimensions and snoop around to find similar sized ones in brass. Maybe Chuck has something close (Syren Models).
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Beautiful work, Johann. I am in awe.
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There is some white decal paper for use with ink jet printers. I'm not sure who makes it and will need to be sprayed using a clear lacquer if I recall correctly. Denis (Popeye) uses it on many of his models.
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- zebulon b vance
- deans marine
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"Adapt, improvise, and overcome" is the philosophy and spirit to have.
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Nice work. As a "heads up", the cannon barrels in this kit look more like ray guns than cannon. They can be changed with a mill or if you don't have a mill, a rotary tool and file. This kit was designed based on the way the Constellation sat in Baltimore up until the 80's (I think). It was a fraud as they were trying to pass it off as the original frigate. Reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Constellation_(1854) and this report: https://apps.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/a241916.pdf a bit of Googling will get you more info. So for this build, he appears to be using historical info on the original.
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Steve gave good advise on this, but I'll add to it. If I understand this, you'll need to pre-bend (using water and some heat like a curling iron or electric plank bender) the planks and then "edge glue" the planks to each other. As for the decks, it appears that they will be secured to the tops of the bulkheads and some of the structural pieces. I think as you start building, some of these things will be clearer. Is there any written instructions? Billing's used to include some shall we say, rather sparse written instructions but also some info like like edge gluing. I recommend you start a build log in the Kit area. It will do a couple of things... it will aid in getting you help as we can see how you're building this model and also it will help anyone else who builds it. By all means, photos so we can look over your shoulder. If you hit a stumbling block, pause, ask about the problem and then be a bit patient as we're a global site and not everyone gets on line at the same time or the even the same day.
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Great to hear the problem is solved, Mark.
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There wouldn't have been a ship's wheel on a vessel of that time period. They would have used a tiller and it would have been under the stern castle.
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Carl, Start a build log with this in the kit area instead of here as this is for introductions by new members.
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Nice work, Steve. I think you've got this down.
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Is the rotation of the stock such that it's cutting? The boring bar that I have actually looks like a bit of a short "L" and I to reverse the lathe to use it as it's cutting edge is at slight angle "down". Run the lathe the other way it scrapes instead of "peels". I hope that makes sense.
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I've edited your title as it says: SOLD.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Amazing work, my friend. So tiny yet has lots of detail.- 4,151 replies
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- cutty sark
- tehnodidakta
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From the picture you posted, it looks like one of the Halibrand <spelling?> rear ends.
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Welcome back home, McSpuds. How did the Syren build go?
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Push sticks, in my opinion are mandatory. I also use feather boards. I got lucky and had one kick back early on and it embedded itself in the wall about 10 feet from the saw. Note that this is a MicroMark table saw. The full size ones I left the anti-kick assembly on the saw and still stood off one side.
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Since it had the Model T 4-banger, it didn't need an explosion proof rear end originally. Looks like you're on your way to making the the little stocker into a quick change type.
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One of the great tail draggers of all time there, OC. Beautiful aircraft. Count me in for seat.
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An excellent warning, Vossiewolf. Kickbacks are very frightening and very dangerous. Even standing off the side when one kicks can miss you but punch holes in walls which I had happen once.
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Thanks for the likes and comments. The trek continues.... Here's the first two frames drafted out in CAD and laser ready. I'll not clutter things up with the rest of them. Be back when either I have something different drawn out or actually mangling some wood.
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A sampler of Canute's model railroad cars
mtaylor replied to Canute's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Ken, The attention to the details is impressive. I really never knew that things had went way beyond the old Lionel days or even the more detailed HO stuff of 20 years ago or so. -
Hello John, Welcome to MSW. I find it hard to believe that's a first build. It is just incredible.
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Siggi, Those appear to be carronades in the photo. Weren't they rigged differently due to the carriages being different?
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