mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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I think Druxey has the right approach. Somewhere around here I recall seeing someone's rope dyeing method. Basically a spool of thread leading into the dye bath and coming out, it runs between two rollers like were on the old washing machines. From there, the rope went up to some hooks on the ceiling to hang and dry. The rope was draped over the hooks and hung down the almost floor level and them back up to the next hook, etc. Sounds a bit messy though so precautions like protecting the floor might be needed.
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I'd say go with the plans for this ship. There were many variations between ships of the same class, a practice which continues to this day.
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Lovely figure, Chris. Like others have stated, I hope you do some more of them.
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Let me think some more and do some reading. Or maybe I'm just confused which is probable. From here, it looks like you're setting the deck line at same height at the bow and the stern. I hope I'm wrong.
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I'm a newbie at lofting also and may be wrong, but I think you need to treat the stern and bow sections separately.
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Vossie has a valid point. Very valid from where I sit. I think he forgot though, that the sun revolves around the earth.
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I believe those holes are the waterways to drain water from the deck. So the bottom of them should be at the top of the deck or even a tad* below it. I'm guessing from the pics though I can't see enough detail to be sure, that these "holes" will need to go through the second layer of planking? Note: tad is a tech term meaning a wee-bit... I'm not sure of the Aussie word to use.
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Sorry to hear the troubles, Denis. Is it lacquer going on over enamel? And sorry to hear about the sewer problem. Give the landlord a week, then contact the city.... but..... they may tell you leave the place immediately. Depends on the city I believe.
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Ken, Lovely work... and success on the sails. Somewhere, someone else that problem with brailing. As I recall so others mentioned that the lower end of the sail is full width but the top is only about 50% of the width. The other idea I heard was to dampen the sail but not sure I'd want to try that on the mast.
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- independence
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Finding sheaves for small functional blocks?
mtaylor replied to FoxtrotHotel's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You'd probably have to make the sheave, unless you can find some at one of the on-line shops. You might have a look at this log (last page shows some he's making: -
Look great Carl, though it does seem to have list to the port side. A bit of counter flooding needed? Man the pumps? I'll get my coat....
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Teddy, If you want to check email for responses, on any topic at the upper right hand side, next to the title, you'll see a little box with the word "follow" in it. If you have your profile set up to send you email notifications, you'll get them. When done and you decide not to have emails from a given topic go back up hit the box and click on the "unfollow" button. Sorry to hear about the injuries and hope you can have a full recovery.
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Mamoli kit planking help
mtaylor replied to kscadman's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Richard, Go to the top of this subforum (link below) and there's pinned posts with planking tutorials. They should be a great help. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ -
It's funny, to me anyways, one would think that the navy would have the blue and army would have they yellow. Looking good, Jack. At 1:48 that still a tiny little thing isn't it? Hmmm... build a wooden 18th century frigate with a Stearman on board.
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Nice work on the small boat. It came out looking great.
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- smack
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Gary, Alfred was "first of the class" so it stands to reason that while the rest of the class kept to basics like hull shape and dimensions, deck shapes, etc. there would be changes as they built more ships of the class. This seems to apply from back then to the current day as new ships of a given class always seem to have some "improvements". With some ships those changes may have pretty radical.
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Quite so. Looks like the crew working on her has dropped popcorn in a few places. Seriously, I love the detail you've done at such a small scale.
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Gaetan, This has been an education in more ways than just a ship. Thanks.
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Dick, I'd say partially plank it like you did the hull. It sounds like deck fittings will be a "best guess" type of thing. Really looks good even as it sits now.
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- nave tonda
- round ship
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Maybe curved low wall in front of the cannon on the edge of the base?
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Looking good from here. A bit of cleanup with a round file or wrap a piece of fine sandpaper around a dowel of appropriate size and Bob's your uncle.
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