mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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True, it does degrade in the body. We used it in Vietnam to patch guys before and during a Medivac. Here's a bit of history: https://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/a25067/the-surprising-military-history-of-superglue/ The catch was, it wasn't a fix all for most of them. Even so, the medics had it and so did some of us door gunners.
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No problem......
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Are those MSW kits or should they be "MS"?
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I hope not to need to paint. I'm just more partial to the wood look. This boat is 'big' one, Sam and is about 6" long.
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But then he couldn't use power tools.
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I do understand where you're coming from. When I made my comment I added the little icon to make sort of a joke. Oh boy, lost wax casting is a whole different critter as I understand it.
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Time for an update on Licorne. "Yippee!" he says. The longboat has been planked and removed from the building jig. Overall, I pretty happy with it. It's not perfect but can be fixed. Worst case is bin it and the next one will be better but for now, I'm going to attempt the "fixes". I needs more sanding, perhaps a bit of filler. I go with filler, I'll find some stain or paint to resemble the planking wood. I need to finish cleaning it up inside and out, adding the rest of the internal ribs and the decking. I'm not adding too much internal detail as this one is on the bottom of the stack of 3 ship's boats. What's a bit scary is they get smaller... Here's the photo's before and after removing it from the jig. Yes, there's a bit of damage, but after finding the bits in the trash pile, it's been fixed. The first three on "on jig" and the second three are after the jig has been removed.
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Sweet work indeed, Mark, and a very impressive arsenal. So don't think you want to take commissions for cannons?
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Check my edit as I added a printing comment.
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The 0DoubleFrame64 is for a baseline if you were to build this at 1:64. The 3 numbers at the end of the drawings "481" are for the 1:48 build which this project was designed for. The "64" is for reference only as such. For 1:48, there's basically two drawing for every frame: a "DoubleFrameComponent481" and "DoubleFrameAssembly481" is used. Edit: Print not at 100% but "Actual Size". After printing, use the scale bar at the "bottom" or "side" of the plans to verify. I hope this helps.
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Another one that does well is zu Mondfeld's Historical Ship Models.
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Plank glue
mtaylor replied to dvlp47's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
To me, pre-bending is not an option. I've had planks pop off and straighten out when they do. Since I've been pre-bending, I have yet to have that happen. -
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Looks like 3-ply plywood on the keel. If so, maybe the hobby shop can help. If the only wood they have is balsa, that's a no-go. They might have the Midwest brand of some other woods though but I've heard Midwest stopped selling hardwoods. Still worth a shot to see what they have. And Doug has probably the best plan. Contact Dusek. Daniel Dusek, the owner, is here on MSW so try a PM to him.
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Are the bulkheads/frames glued to anything yet? I would hope they're glued to the keel already. The lower deck will stiffen things up a lot. A higher keel might help but kit makers have their reasons... usually costs. You've got the right idea with the wood piece down the centerline. Do you have some extra you can slip into place on the other two grooved areas? Pin the stiffener planks if you can though gluing would be preferable (not sure if some timber will be in there later). If there's timber to be glued in those slots, look ahead in the instructions. You might be able to glue them in now before doing anything else.
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Sappelli (I think there's 10 or 20 ways to spell it) is, as Jaager says, not a great wood. It can be worked with heat and steam/water (lots of ways people use). The biggest problem with any kit wood though is they don't usually get the wood cut parallel to the grain so it splits and breaks.
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The film "Das Boot" also has that very dark feel to it along with the emotions of the crew. When watching it, one is drawn into the submarine and can feel part of it. Very dark and moody but well worth the time to watch it.
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Thistle is right. My bad. But the conversions to the Malco products should be the same as far as tooth counts and wood thickness.
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Here's a PDF with blade recommendations and other things. Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
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Don't be hard on yourself, OC. We all have our days that at the end of it, we probably shouldn't have gone near the model. I do sympathize but as others have said.. "the next ones will be better ".
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Plank Bender....
mtaylor replied to dvlp47's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I use the same tool as Ulises. One word of advice.... Do not under any circumstances use the Admiral's. Either buy your own or better yet, buy her a new one and use her old one. -
Not good news, Jeff. I'm sorry to see that but luckily the child is ok.
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The Chad list is proper for 1:48. You can substitute woods as you see fit. He does list sizes and the parts the wood is needed for so you can change types as types are the wood he chose for his build.
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Paint mixing is still pretty much "voodoo" just like in the past. It's really difficult to get two batches exactly alike. An old house painter I knew said to buy what you think you need, and then get more of the same mixed batch. Back in time, everyone had their own recipes for color as even the pigments varied. So what shows up on a painting may or many not be the exact shade the vessel was painted in and also varied as the ship weathered. I'm not a painter type but if you decide to paint, pick the colors and mix to what you want the ship to look like. No one can ever say you're wrong.
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