mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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I used white glue. But not that much, less than drop in two places. I managed to pop off those bits with no damage. I have reworked them for a better fit and reglued them into place. Looks better, but I'm not handling the boat until the glue dries completely.
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It does seem to be a trait of AYC. I've only used it, so far, for planking decks and areas that don't need pressure. If the hull planks are pre-bent using heat, water, whatever method works for you and do fit with minimal pressure, run some wood glue along the length with gaps. In the gaps put a drop of CA to tack the piece down. There might be an issue with things setting up fast if you're using one long plank instead of a few shorter ones.
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Mike, Give some thought to this... it's not difficult but it might help you based on your feelings about the stern. Put a piece of filter paper over the vacuum inlet nozzle. Create a bunch of ebony sawdust by whatever means. The dust will be captured in the filter paper. When you think you have enough, take the dust and make a paste of white glue, a tiny bit of water, and the dust to make a paste. Use that to fill in the gaps and let dry. Lightly resand it and it should be smoother. I've this method on my own projects and it works well.
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They are angled out a bit. I'm not sure what happened as during the test fits they were vertical. I suspect that during the glue up I didn't get them fully seated. One of the few things I'm not happy with. I'm afraid to try to unglue them as what ever I use will probably basically destroy the boat by releasing the frame, planks, etc. in that area. I may just have to redo the whole boat. I'll think a bit and try some things before I engage is mass destruction. If the glue bond isn't that hard, I might be able to just pop them off.
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and I think the illustrator who gave the saracens a flag with a cross on it must have been having a senior moment, and put it above the wrong set of horsemen. Not necessarily. It could have been those were acting as mercenaries or agreed to go under his banner. If it was emperor's banner, it could be a misuse of the term "saracens". Part of why I think the "dark ages" were called that is lack of definitive history. So much was amplified, slanted, tweeked, etc. in the name of "religion" which was really power.
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Question about table saw technique
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
PM sent JD. -
Thanks Carl, but the blue is only temporary tape to be removed later. I hate dropping parts into bowels of the ship never to be seen again.
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What a joy to see this model coming along. As for the ebony, it looks like the grain is not straight across the plank. You might try scrapping a bit more or just some very fine sandpaper. And, as been suggested, do wear a breathing filter even if it's a paper mask like doctors and surgeons wear.
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Thanks for the comments, the likes, and sticking with this journey. No worries on the dime anymore... I spent it. I made the chocks and installed them into the Licorne. I've since been attacking the drawings making fixes for error areas discovered on this boat. Here's some pictures of it in place. It's not glued in yet as I need access to the area astern where the mainmast goes. Once I'm done figuring out if I need to pre-installed suitable lengths of line for rigging the mast, I'll do that. I suspect this will keep me off the streets and out of trouble for a few days.
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I just "re-discovered" this build, Kevin. Looking good and it should keep you busy for quite awhile. I think on the bridge's roof, you'd need to put a lining that hangs down inside to fit the walls of the bridge. Like the tabs are used on a plastic model.
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Question about table saw technique
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Great news JD. As for the picture.. check the size of it. I find that if limit my pictures (by cropping or editing the size) to 1500 pixels maximum per dimension they load fine. -
Lists lining cannonports
mtaylor replied to TomJonas's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I'm not sure either what a "list" is. If it's framing around the inside of the port, I'd think the kit would have that done before the planking. I could be wrong on this kit though. Edit: They don't do it that way. I've searched through the logs and here's the way the only one who has got that far did it: -
Putting the champagne on ice for the launch, Chris. I like the idea of the figures and hopefully you can sell those as an accessory.
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Google in Chrome is your friend. There's nine dots in a square on the upper right hand of all the pages. One of the items is translate. If you past the URL of the site into Google, on the results page click on the link you want. You should get a translate option. Note that this happens in Chrome. For IE, right click on the page once open, and one of the options is "translate with Bing". Bing is rather crappy compated to Google Chrome's translate. Firefox currently has translating disabled due to some security issues caused by their latest updates.
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Morbid, I'm not sure if that's the right word. Maybe a bit but I've seen dioramas of shipwrecks and other disasters. You could shorten the backstory where he's taking supplies to the city and not have the coffin in the build. Or forget the backstory but carry on as this might have been used for delivery of supplies. But, you are the builder and as such your feeling on this is respected.
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Marc, I love the research and way the model is coming together. I do have a question. Seems your biggest issue is reconciling the sketches with each other. Are we sure these are not treatments for consideration by the master shipwrights? Sort of a design to be considered? I would think that a painting (if it were done where the artist could see it, would be closer to what the ship looked like. It's still fascinating research you're doing.
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I see no blemishes or errors, Patrick. And yes, I'm wearing my glasses and screen zoom is at 115%.
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Thanks for the likes and comments. Thanks for the link Johann. Yours was one of the logs I tried to emulate. I failed in that yours is just about perfect. I know mine is not but I am happy the way it turned out. The dime is about 17mm in diameter. Pierre is 30 mm from bottom of the base to top of his measuring staff. For those not on metric... Pierre is 1-1/8". I guess I need to sort out a universal measurement. Something creative but I'll have to be careful. I can't use a sparrow as there are differences between the European and African sparrow according to Monte Python. Didn't get a chance today to work on things but the last bit is the chocks on deck for the long boat.
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Sopwith Camel F.1 - Model Airways - 1/16 Scale (3/4" = 1')
mtaylor replied to DocBlake's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I love that build video. I shudder to think how much effort went into the stop action of the parts being put together. The ending is a nice touch. -
The French did "interesting" things at times. The tried different rigging and masting on various ships to see if it improved things. This might be one of ships that had a test rig on it.
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If the image can be uploaded, then there's no problem with size. I like the deck treatment. The back story is very sad but fits what you want to accomplish with the model.
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Question about table saw technique
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The other advantage to letting the saw do the work (besides chip removal) that I can see is that the blade stays cooler and reduces the chance of warping it.
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